Eacook1
New member
Yes Dyno only shows 124. I just repeated what the guy told me.
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Performance Enhancements for 2nd Gen 3.0L??
- Thread starter sephryan
- Start date
Yes Dyno only shows 124. I just repeated what the guy told me.
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BackOff
New member
I see what your saying now.
Sorry to drag my 4th gen over to the classics section.
On my 2004 V6 T4R.
I just had a run on a Dynojet and got 207hp from what started as a 245hp T4R.
The guy said the tires and transmission can eat 30% hp.
The dyno just reads rear wheel HP.
I am thinking one needs to use the stock size tires to get a closer reading?
Dropzone
New member
Old post but I don't think i would run an engine from DOA unless it was free.
A friend ordered a bunch of 3.0 parts to build his truck enginle. None of the head bolts were even a consistent length. Both heads were fubar.
Maybe they got their QC up to standard now but their past reputation left a lot to be desired
Number_6
New member
If you look back through automotive history around 1970-71 you can see how much loss is caused by accessories- engines with real world loads. Back in the day, makers dyno'd an engine "naked" with no fans, or accessories of any sort for the SAE gross rating. Then the SAE went to net- rating the engine with a full load of accessories (fan, air pump, A/C comp, PS, PB, alt.) and associated drives. The drop was more than noticeable, and this was before wheel HP was measured, which causes an even greater loss due to tranny as well as wheel drag.
Number_6
New member
For the geeks out there, has anyone calculated the airflow efficiency of the stock exhaust manifold? Also, I don't have to worry about emissions, so what about a straight no cat dual exhaust setup?
I bring this up because a few years ago I wondered if the performance of the 305 V6 in my '69 GMC (not to be confused with any newer GM engines, V6 or V8) could be improved with custom headers. I found a post where another guy had considered the same thing. He cranked though the calculations on the stock manifolds and found they could not be beat. There was so much "room" in the airflow of the stock setup that headers weren't necessary.
I bring this up because a few years ago I wondered if the performance of the 305 V6 in my '69 GMC (not to be confused with any newer GM engines, V6 or V8) could be improved with custom headers. I found a post where another guy had considered the same thing. He cranked though the calculations on the stock manifolds and found they could not be beat. There was so much "room" in the airflow of the stock setup that headers weren't necessary.
4runner_kid
Senior Member
A few things i did to my old 3VZE was NWOR Headers, Flowmaster, K&N Intake, Electric fan and a Camry MAF. The intake didn't make much of a difference but everything else did.
Before I bought mine the owner told me the only drawback is that it's underpowered. I thought how bad could it be? Taking it up the mountain passes on the way home was downright embarassing! But, yeah, I can't imagine you can do much to improve it without spending ridiculous money on such an old engine. Guess that's why they last!
what a pain in the A$$ that was!
I bought some stainless headers for around $200 on Amazon back in May, and took them to a local muffler shop to have them put on.
He charged me $350 labor, deleted my Cat because he said there wasn't room (bullshit), and then welded up the EGR ports because he said the pipes that came with the system weren't long enough.
Supposedly I don't need any of that stuff anyway because my truck is exempt from emissions.
Problems: the manifold is so close to the starter that I had to remove it when my starter failed (same week I got it back). The head gaskets are impossible to find since this is a special header.
Brake line and 2 fuel lines are right where the header on the passenger side goes, so it was about to burn through both of those if I hadn't noticed first.
I think that mechanic was trying to kill me.
Also, the U-bolts on that system made all of the joints leak terribly, it was stupid loud - like a Harley was running in the back seat.
Took it somewhere else, they used wrap tape to address the passenger side areas near the brake/gas lines and moved the lines as much as possible, and used strap clamps to cover the joints. All 7 of them.
Cost me another $350 to get that work done.
Basically, if I could have found a driver's side manifold, I would have used that, and saved myself a lot of money and headache.
YMMV.
93 4Runner (Gen 2)
I bought some stainless headers for around $200 on Amazon back in May, and took them to a local muffler shop to have them put on.
He charged me $350 labor, deleted my Cat because he said there wasn't room (bullshit), and then welded up the EGR ports because he said the pipes that came with the system weren't long enough.
Supposedly I don't need any of that stuff anyway because my truck is exempt from emissions.
Problems: the manifold is so close to the starter that I had to remove it when my starter failed (same week I got it back). The head gaskets are impossible to find since this is a special header.
Brake line and 2 fuel lines are right where the header on the passenger side goes, so it was about to burn through both of those if I hadn't noticed first.
I think that mechanic was trying to kill me.
Also, the U-bolts on that system made all of the joints leak terribly, it was stupid loud - like a Harley was running in the back seat.
Took it somewhere else, they used wrap tape to address the passenger side areas near the brake/gas lines and moved the lines as much as possible, and used strap clamps to cover the joints. All 7 of them.
Cost me another $350 to get that work done.
Basically, if I could have found a driver's side manifold, I would have used that, and saved myself a lot of money and headache.
YMMV.
What the heck is that button supposed to do anyway?
4runner_kid
Senior Member
93 4Runner (Gen 2)
I bought some stainless headers for around $200 on Amazon back in May, and took them to a local muffler shop to have them put on.
He charged me $350 labor, deleted my Cat because he said there wasn't room (bullshit), and then welded up the EGR ports because he said the pipes that came with the system weren't long enough.
Supposedly I don't need any of that stuff anyway because my truck is exempt from emissions.
Problems: the manifold is so close to the starter that I had to remove it when my starter failed (same week I got it back). The head gaskets are impossible to find since this is a special header.
Brake line and 2 fuel lines are right where the header on the passenger side goes, so it was about to burn through both of those if I hadn't noticed first.
I think that mechanic was trying to kill me.
Also, the U-bolts on that system made all of the joints leak terribly, it was stupid loud - like a Harley was running in the back seat.
Took it somewhere else, they used wrap tape to address the passenger side areas near the brake/gas lines and moved the lines as much as possible, and used strap clamps to cover the joints. All 7 of them.
Cost me another $350 to get that work done.
Basically, if I could have found a driver's side manifold, I would have used that, and saved myself a lot of money and headache.
YMMV.
They say you get what you pay for.
You buy cheap headers expect them to fit poorly. I had a set of NWOR long tube's fit just fine, even the cat. Also had a set of Doug header's and those also fit just fine even with the cat.
As for the brake line's you have to bend them out of the way.
Having headers doesn't change the style head gasket so i'm confused as to why they told you it needs special head gasket's now.
Not head gasket, header gasket. Oops.
You don't know this (or maybe you've figured it out by now), but I'm not a gear-head. I like working on my trucks mostly because I can't find people who will do a good job, or that I can afford to pay.
I"m a construction guy, with a high level of detail in my field, but I've already learned that there's way too much for me to know to even approach your level of knowledge.
Hence my mistake buying the headers. Rookie mistake, but I just didn't know what I didn't know.
And I'll never go to that first shop again.
You don't know this (or maybe you've figured it out by now), but I'm not a gear-head. I like working on my trucks mostly because I can't find people who will do a good job, or that I can afford to pay.
I"m a construction guy, with a high level of detail in my field, but I've already learned that there's way too much for me to know to even approach your level of knowledge.
Hence my mistake buying the headers. Rookie mistake, but I just didn't know what I didn't know.
And I'll never go to that first shop again.
4runner_kid
Senior Member
I used stock manifold gasket's for my headers and i had zero leak's. No need for different gasket's.
I wish mine had been that simple. Clearly I bought the wrong crap.
xmindbender
New member
124hp at the tires. Engines are rated at the crank.
