Thanks for the suggestion, but that one is a bit out of my price range.
**Photography Talk**
- Thread starter rickashay
- Start date
Thanks for the suggestion, but that one is a bit out of my price range.
Stick Figure
New member
It was around a $75 difference on amazon, I didn't do a lot of looking to see if the Canon was on mega sale somewhere.
I guess the next question would be what are you looking to do with the camera? I'm sure the Canon is a great piece, but spec/ability wise it seemed a really long ways off what most people in this thread are using to share images.
Rudy97
New member
Big storm tonight got to take some shots from the garage. You're going to want to click on the link...I only included a thumbnail to save the DSL users a heart attack.
5D mk ii
24-70mm f2.8
HDR Raw
http://i.imgur.com/GvIlsid.jpg
50mm
Raw
http://i.imgur.com/04JJt6h.jpg
5D mk ii
24-70mm f2.8
HDR Raw
http://i.imgur.com/GvIlsid.jpg
50mm
Raw
http://i.imgur.com/04JJt6h.jpg
Last edited:
Stick Figure
New member
Very nice, and is it just me or are you running slicks on the 4Runner?
t4r4life
Elite Member
i think the HDR over exposed the already low tread. could be wrong tho i am a noob lol
You're right, I must have been looking at sale prices. They had it listed for 319 last week. As far as what I want out of it, I want raw capability, good video recording, a good amount of zoom. I don't have much experience so I need something that I can learn with. Most of my subject matter would be cars, nature, and people; with video of drag races and my family outings. I'd love slow motion but that is out of my reach. I was staying away from SLRs because of the price and frankly they intimidate me. FWIW my budget is $350.
Rudy97
New member
The "slicks" are my current nightmare. Not sure whats wrong, but the truck chews through front tires. Bought those tires in December, they have 5k on them. All the alignment shops I take it to just treat the symptoms and don't look for the cause.
Buuut. I think I found the issue after referencing alignment sheets and doing my own research. So hopefully all will be fixed tomorrow :cheers:
Stick Figure
New member
Well GOOD zoom isn't going to happen with a point and shoot. When you look look at specs look for actual optical zoom. Some "digital zoom" is okay, but generally the photo won't compare to one shoot with the proper lens for the distance. Something like Drag Race video's this will become very apparent unless you are looking to record just two dots running down the strip.
As far as easy to use again I can't speak for the Canon and Nikon models but both of my Sony cameras can produce some pretty good pics in full auto mode. In fact most of the current line up caters to people that want pro photographer captures with out learning the trade. So you really can start snapping away with good results fresh out of the box letting the camera make all the decisions. Then move on from there.
I haven't really looked at many point and shoot cameras lately, but last one I owned was replaced by my original HTC EVO phone. It took better pictures than my point and shoot and was far more convenient to have on me.
For the $350 budget I would probably look used (at craigslist or camera shops) and see if someone local wouldn't mind checking it out before you handed over the cash.
Good luck on the fix that would be pricey buying tires every 5k.
Offroader5
New member
Just a bit of well placed marketing 
I have a camera bundle for sale in the classifieds if anyone is interested.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-non-t4r-items/144294-fs-canon-30d-dslr-3-lenses-extras-$650.html
I have a camera bundle for sale in the classifieds if anyone is interested.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-non-t4r-items/144294-fs-canon-30d-dslr-3-lenses-extras-$650.html
GentryGoon
New member
Whats up every one? Hope you all are having a good monday.
anyone want to help me decide what lenses to move up to?
Here's what I have:
-Nikon D7000 with Nikon battery grip
-Tokina 11-16 2.8 (I love this lens, worth every penny)
-Nikon 18-105 kit lens (I despise this lens, stays in my bag 80% of the time I'm shooting)
Obviously, I need some better glass for the mid to telephoto range. Wide angle, I should be fine until I move up to full frame later on.
So i basically need to invest in 2 lenses. I've been craving the new 70-200 2.8 Tamron FX lens, as it would work well for sports(I want to start photographing at the local Motocross track I ride at.), wildlife, and I've heard you can use it for solid portraits which I want to start shooting as well. So basically this lens would work for a ton of different stuff. But then there's the question of how it will work with my D7000 considering it's DX. will it just be a ?mm-300mm? until i get an FX body? :shrug: Wouldn't mind a 300mm...
Also I found a CL listing for a used mint condition 17-35 F4 Tokina FX lens for around 450. While this would be a solid lens now, when I move up to the FX body I will be getting the all-mighty 12-24 2.8 nikkor, so would this one just become useless?
I probably should have gone straight to full frame and avoided this confusion, I just like sharp and fast glass after using my Tokina 2.8 so much
Let me know what you guys think! I will probably get to purchase one lens on the 1st when I get paid.
Sorry for the long ramble.
eace:
anyone want to help me decide what lenses to move up to?
Here's what I have:
-Nikon D7000 with Nikon battery grip
-Tokina 11-16 2.8 (I love this lens, worth every penny)
-Nikon 18-105 kit lens (I despise this lens, stays in my bag 80% of the time I'm shooting)
Obviously, I need some better glass for the mid to telephoto range. Wide angle, I should be fine until I move up to full frame later on.
So i basically need to invest in 2 lenses. I've been craving the new 70-200 2.8 Tamron FX lens, as it would work well for sports(I want to start photographing at the local Motocross track I ride at.), wildlife, and I've heard you can use it for solid portraits which I want to start shooting as well. So basically this lens would work for a ton of different stuff. But then there's the question of how it will work with my D7000 considering it's DX. will it just be a ?mm-300mm? until i get an FX body? :shrug: Wouldn't mind a 300mm...
Also I found a CL listing for a used mint condition 17-35 F4 Tokina FX lens for around 450. While this would be a solid lens now, when I move up to the FX body I will be getting the all-mighty 12-24 2.8 nikkor, so would this one just become useless?
I probably should have gone straight to full frame and avoided this confusion, I just like sharp and fast glass after using my Tokina 2.8 so much
Let me know what you guys think! I will probably get to purchase one lens on the 1st when I get paid.
Sorry for the long ramble.
eace:
fish0281
New member
Well, I overexposed most of my pics from Switzerland because I left it in Meter Matrix instead of spot metering :/ I think I've fixed what I was doing wrong, but it does seem like this camera has a tendency to over expose rather than under. I'm also learning the value of RAW.
Here's one of them that turned out alright. If you haven't been to the Alps, I highly recommend it. The mountains are something special there - in Grindelwald, you have all 9k' of The Eiger in your face and it is impressive.
Here's one of them that turned out alright. If you haven't been to the Alps, I highly recommend it. The mountains are something special there - in Grindelwald, you have all 9k' of The Eiger in your face and it is impressive.
Hepar
New member
With the lenses you listed, I would say the best choice would be a fast mid-range zoom. Like the Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8. The 70-200mm is a great option too. On the D7000 it would be a 105-300mm. If you plan on shooting a lot of hand held sports, getting that range with VR or some other image stabilization really helps.
Other than that, I would say if you have any plans of stepping up to an FX body, buy FX lenses. Don't bother with any DX lenses.
Haven't posted a pic in a while.
14mm 1/320 f5 ISO 200
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jkusuiphotography/9094815466/" title="DSC_1942 by JKUsui Photography, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2852/9094815466_580cb75d43_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_1942"></a>
Dawg4Runner
New member
A few pics from Carmel
24mm, f/4, 1/1000, ISO 100
Some local wildflowers
105mm, f/4, 1/1000, ISO 100
65mm, f/4, 1/800, ISO 100
Crab in a tide pool
105mm, f/4, 1/160, ISO 100
Lone Cypress
35mm, f/13, 1/200, ISO 100
105mm, f/13, 1/160, ISO 100
Sunset at Monastery Beach
24mm, f/22, 1/50, ISO 100
105mm, f/9, 1/200, ISO 100
24mm, f/4, 1/1000, ISO 100
Some local wildflowers
105mm, f/4, 1/1000, ISO 100
65mm, f/4, 1/800, ISO 100
Crab in a tide pool
105mm, f/4, 1/160, ISO 100
Lone Cypress
35mm, f/13, 1/200, ISO 100
105mm, f/13, 1/160, ISO 100
Sunset at Monastery Beach
24mm, f/22, 1/50, ISO 100
105mm, f/9, 1/200, ISO 100
Stick Figure
New member
Very nice and very motivational that I need to go for a hwy 1 drive again SOON!
Now I actually got on here to post a question
HIGH ISO image "repair"?
Last weekend we went out to the HIN show. For those that aren't familiar with this show, its more of a club atmosphere with cars. For the cars I did a few long exposure, a few with flash and a few with some larger aperture prime lenses, other than the fact that I had a mid 80's flash that doesn't communicate with my camera other than a trigger, I was pretty happy with the results.
Now for the on stage go go and ms hin competition, I wasn't willing to push through the crowd to get up close and personal to the stage. I did shoot a few shots at around 200mm and higher iso settings. I was able to take the grain out of them in Lightroom 4.4, but the export file and library file didn't look quite the same. They had noticeably more "grain" added back to them. As a ridiculous work around I did a print screen and pasted to another program, but obviously this method sucks for several reasons. So other than deal with the crowd to get some better close ups next time does anyone have any experience with another program that may do better? or tips to make lightroom export exactly like the develop preview looks?
Stick Figure
New member
I have checked the export settings and don't have any sharpening turned on there. I will post a more detailed post later today with screen shots etc. I researched around the web for a while before posting and found people with similar "problems" but I think it just comes down to expecting too much out of the software. At a certain point it might be easier to start from scratch with an image than continue editing an "improperly" photographed picture. lol
NYRT4R
New member
A few programs I've used for noise reduction are Topaz DeNoise, Neat Image, and Noise Ninja. I'm pretty sure all three of them have trial versions you can try. I haven't needed to use them since Lightroom 4 though since it does the best job in my opinion.
Edit: Make sure in the export settings the image quality is set to 100. You might see some artifacts if it's set low.
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