Picked up my first 4runner last week. Need help.

TwoYo

New member
First off hello. My name is Ken and this 4runner makes the 5th Toyota we've had. Two rav4s a camry my wifes highlander and now the 2000 sr5 4runner. I picked it up last week from a dealer I know as it was a repo and I scored it cheap. I was told it didn't run but for what I paid I could scrap it and break even. Here's the scoop. I'm pretty good with cars. I'm building a big inch stroker small block chevy for my 79 Malibu now and I pride myself in doing all my own work. Well now the issue with the 4runner. It starts and immediately dies. I know I have to have air spark and fuel to get running. I do not hear any noise from the pump, period. I looked at all related fuses, relays etc. I do hear a click on/off in the glove box area but haven't investigated. The truck shows 245,000 on the odometer but I'm not concerned. My chevy van has 220k no problem. So today I dropped the tank (overlooked the trap door to disconnect the harness and ripped it free. Now I need to know where the pins go back into the plug) well as I suspected the pump bench tested perfectly. So, why doesn't it work in the truck? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. I'm excited to own this rig!!
 
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If the fuel pump wasn't working it would not start at all. Since it starts (every time?) and then dies quickly after I would make sure sensors like the MAF are plugged in.
 
Well I tried the usual maf,iac,tps plugs. Undid each one and started it. Each time same thing. It does not respond with any input from the accelerator either. After that I pulled codes. All related to the sensors I unplugged. The fact that I got codes tells me the ecu is good. I cleared codes and tried again. What now?
 
So what is killing it immediately? I can't figure it out. I have a new pump/strainer/gasket ordered. Since it's apart might as well replace it. As for the harness, any ideas? Maybe a dealer print out? Thanks for the replies so far
 
So with all the known sensors plugged in you get no codes when it dies? I hate when that happens... Not sure what to tell you then other than maybe to test the MAF and other sensors and see if they are good. Search around here for links to the FSM which will tell you how to test them.
 
Ok. I didn't rescan after all the monkeying around I did. Guess I should. So the f.p. works but what kills it immediately after ignition? So strange.
 
Ok. I didn't rescan after all the monkeying around I did. Guess I should. So the f.p. works but what kills it immediately after ignition? So strange.

This is why I mentioned the MAF sensor. When the MAF is unplugged these trucks will start and die within a minute or so.
 
Ok. I'll rescan it. The bad thing is that the truck is 20 minutes away so I make it when I can. Thanks for the help so far.
 
I'll be the first to admit that I'm no expert; in fact, FAR from it, but I wonder if the EFI relay might be "going bad". Maybe pull it out and start it to see if you get the exact same symptoms. If so, test the relay and/or buy a new one.

Maybe [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] would be willing to provide his expertise?
 
Yeah. I think the 'click' under the glove box is the relay for the fuel pump circuit. Once I install the new pump I'll take a swing at that.
 
This might be a long shot, but something to look into. I noticed you said a 15 year old truck was repossessed, meaning somebody had a loan on it. Sometimes, the only places that would finance a truck that old are small places that have an agreement with a high risk loan bank, which requires the use of a GPS/ignition cut off device to be wired in in order for the loan to be approved. If the loan isn't paid, the ignition circuit is cut and the gps let's them know where it's at so they can come get it. They're usually wired under the drivers kick panel, or up by where the rear diff lock button would be.
 
This might be a long shot, but something to look into. I noticed you said a 15 year old truck was repossessed, meaning somebody had a loan on it. Sometimes, the only places that would finance a truck that old are small places that have an agreement with a high risk loan bank, which requires the use of a GPS/ignition cut off device to be wired in in order for the loan to be approved. If the loan isn't paid, the ignition circuit is cut and the gps let's them know where it's at so they can come get it. They're usually wired under the drivers kick panel, or up by where the rear diff lock button would be.
I hadn't thought of that. I run a mobile upholstery business so I deal with a lot of car lots and am very aware of gps units. I bought a 2000 crv a couple years ago that was surrendered by the owner due to transmission failure. I got it for $700 and a buddy put a jdm trans in and I drove it a year or so. That didn't have a gps on it. Most of the gps units these guys install are just to track. Not many have ignition kill units. But it's worth looking into. Good idea.
 
I assume it would run poorly with a clogged filter. Problem is that the start/die issue is consistent each and every time. The dealer said there's no ignition kill on it. So that leaves an electrical issue or relay or security issue. Possibly the maf as someone suggested.
 
First off, did you ever get a chance to rescan the vehicle for DTCs? Those may be critical in directing your diagnostics at this point. The vehicle sounds like it is getting too much air and/or not enough fuel. When you bench tested the fuel pump was it just to see if it turned on/off, or did you actually test flow & pressure; a weak fuel pump might be a possible starting point.

The curious thing is that it starts and then dies which to mean indicates that a lot of circuits are at the very least working correctly for a second or two before something happens and kills the vehicle.
 

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