Picture of 4Runner Rust- Check your frames

During winter, for you fellas and ladies living on the east coast or whereever road salt is used. You can minimize this by simply going to your car wash and blasting off that salt underneath.
 
Is it true that just spraying the bottom with WD-40 or Truck Bed Liner will help prevent rust? I don't want to risk damaging it even more because mine hasn't rusted over and I don't want it to.
 
Is it true that just spraying the bottom with WD-40 or Truck Bed Liner will help prevent rust? I don't want to risk damaging it even more because mine hasn't rusted over and I don't want it to.
Fluid film. Get a gallon and the pro gun.

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Okay, thanks for the tip!

Any kinda thick oil will prevent rust. So yes, wd40 is good, fluid film is better. Old engine oil.

I recommend spraying top of shock rocker, all along rocker panels. Inside the rocker panels, and whole under car. Rear fender wells.
 
Too late now, but......Preventive maintenance goes a long way, hose inside of frame out. Spray oil, wd-40, fluid film, or whatever inside frame, outside, and all over the whole under carriage, inside rockers, doors, fenders, etc. I've been painting my frame and floor pans with Chassis Saver from Monstaliner, over time I'll get everything like rear diff and other stuff. Salt Life.
 
Is it true that just spraying the bottom with WD-40 or Truck Bed Liner will help prevent rust? I don't want to risk damaging it even more because mine hasn't rusted over and I don't want it to.

^^ WD-40 original / evaporates quickly & offers little rust protection.
Truck Bed Liner applied over rust, will trap it...that can't be good.

Decades ago, I experimented with rust proofing & rented a hoist to spray different formula's / some purchased & others I concocted up (these worked very well to retard rust / but the proper Hydraulic feed spray equipment was expensive)
- Krown & Rust Check, are very much the same / some senior employees quit one company & started up their own
- Krown product lasted in the wheel wheels, for only about a good month / not a whole winter...equals Fail
- having sprayed the stuff, and tested on my own DD'ers / I suspect the stuff is water soluble, and washes off...Not Good !!
Krown & Rust Check is 100x better than not rust treating ever.

Now - I am a firm believer in wax-oil blended sprays, to wet and bond to metal (much longer), with built in rust inhibitors.
- Fluid Film is a far more reliable undercoating / done annually, for lasting protection
- if under-carriage is clean of dirt, your ready to spray / if underneath is muddy, power wash first & allow 24 hours dry time
I live in a rock salt-rust belt / my Gen3 will take another 2 decades, to rust out / so far, my 2000 SR5 is still near perfect.

Spraying on firewall and inner fenders and inside hood front, trunk bottom, all doors, rockers & quarter panels is essential.
- to prevent rust starting, from inside/out / eliminating expensive rust through & extensive auto body work
- with proper undercoating / rust on door bottoms is avoided & folded sheet metal seams, stay tight & paint doesn't break
 

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^^ WD-40 original / evaporates quickly & offers little rust protection.
Truck Bed Liner applied over rust, will trap it...that can't be good.

Decades ago, I experimented with rust proofing & rented a hoist to spray different formula's / some purchased & others I concocted up (these worked very well to retard rust / but the proper Hydraulic feed spray equipment was expensive)
- Krown & Rust Check, are very much the same / some senior employees quit one company & started up their own
- Krown product lasted in the wheel wheels, for only about a good month / not a whole winter...equals Fail
- having sprayed the stuff, and tested on my own DD'ers / I suspect the stuff is water soluble, and washes off...Not Good !!
Krown & Rust Check is 100x better than not rust treating ever.

Now - I am a firm believer in wax-oil blended sprays, to wet and bond to metal (much longer), with built in rust inhibitors.
- Fluid Film is a far more reliable undercoating / done annually, for lasting protection
- if under-carriage is clean of dirt, your ready to spray / if underneath is muddy, power wash first & allow 24 hours dry time
I live in a rock salt-rust belt / my Gen3 will take another 2 decades, to rust out / so far, my 2000 SR5 is still near perfect.

Spraying on firewall and inner fenders and inside hood front, trunk bottom, all doors, rockers & quarter panels is essential.
- to prevent rust starting, from inside/out / eliminating expensive rust through & extensive auto body work
- with proper undercoating / rust on door bottoms is avoided & folded sheet metal seams, stay tight & paint doesn't break

Wow, thanks for the advice! I'll definitely consider doing this in a few years before rust starts kicking in. Right now it doesn't seem to be an issue so I'm not too worried about it.
 
We are lucky in the PNW because we get to power wash every nook and cranny of our cars with distilled water for most of the winter but every once in a while we get a cold snap with salt on the roads and snow, which is what we have this week. I am not taking the 4runner out because I haven't rust proofed it, there is too much exposed rust. I am driving my 2012 electric Leaf. That hardly has any rust, and it is protected by paint. I hit any potential rust spots with the oily spray last month so it should be good. Any rust I see, I'll clean it and hit it. Easy when there isn't much rust, a lot harder when most of the frame has surface flaking rust which has removed the paint.

Interesting study from the Canadian military, go to page 10.

http://cradpdf.drdc-rddc.gc.ca/PDFS/unc53/p526285.pdf
 
Check your frames, I thought mine was fine - surface rust only. That was until my wife came home and told me "my car feels funny going down the road." While inspecting, look what I found. This is where the drivers side lower control arm meets the frame. As you can see it has rusted to the point where it has seperated. If anyone else has this condition, or is getting close, get to your dealer and complain!

I had rusted Diff on 02 T4R in 2016 186,000mi. In 2010 I walnut blasted underside +rust inhibitor+Rustoleum+Zibart. No exterior body rust, interior has sheepskins since new, all looks new, serviced by the book, except for re-occuring frame and diff rust.Dealer ordered $1200 rear axle assembly for rusted Diff fix. Before going through with that and $2500, I had dealer do a courtesy state inspection. Didn't know the frame was cracked until the dealer said they would not pass state inspection on it, but they also wouldn't repair it. WTF?! got pissed, went to Barnes 4WD Diff cover replaced it in 2016. At same time had welder weld frame areas and coat with AMsoil HD. Toyota won't acknowledge it as a recall issue even with pictures of inside out and full service record. They gave me a $1,000 credit if I buy a new or used Toyo within a year. Welded the frame and Barnes Diff cover and added Amasoil Undercoating for <$1,000. I'll drive the '02 until one of us dies or I run out of $$ fixing it.

Will never go to a Toyota dealer with my T4R again. they only want to work on new and easy stuff.
 
Yeah, it'll cause my car's early death up here in the north east. It's almost impossible to avoid without a garage.

Even if you have a garage driving it on salt covered roads is going to destroy it. Fighting off corrosion is a constant battle that I'm getting sick of.
 
It's a constant battle in the midwest too against rust. This past weekend, we were supposed to get a considerable amount of ice 2 days in a row. So, the city used brine (which I'm sure the NE folks here know about) which is more corrosive than just the salt they lay out for snow. Luckily, on the tail end of the storm, the temp warmed up to 45* F and it all changed to rain washing away most of the brine on the roads.
 

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