Pinch weld mod...did I dun goof?

[MudMud]

I have slight rubbing in the front on sharp turns so decided to hammer my pinch weld down this evening to get me a bit of room. I pulled the liner back, and noticed my pinch weld was only a few inches long in the fender well, unlike some photos I've seen where it seems to go nearly to the top of the well. No matter, I thought, I'll hammer it anyway. So I started hammering with a little 3lb sledge. After about 20 hits, the welded seam above my pinch weld split, and now I'm freaking out a little bit thinking I ****ed something good. Can you look at these photos (Shared album - Kevin - Google Photos) and let me know

A) I am hammering the right thing, right? This is definitely where my tires are rubbing.

B) Should I stop hammering since that seam started splitting up above the pinch weld?

C) WTF do I do to seal that seam back up? Does it need re-welded now?

I started rubbing because I did the TBU, which meant I had to put spacers on the stock wheels...should have just bought new wheels when I did the TBU damnit...

 

[Quantumkiwi]

A) Yes.
B) Yes.
C) Yes.

See as a good opportunity to get a nice tub job, just grab some 35's and make it perfect. Lol.
You probably have to cut the split weld out, put a patch over it and weld it up. Make sure you pull your carpet out of the front footwell so you don't set it on fire.

 

[MudMud]

I'm probably the only idiot this has happened to, naturally.

Is it OK to drive with it like this for a bit until I have time to get it welded back together or is this more of an urgent thing?

 

[Quantumkiwi]

I'm probably the only idiot this has happened to, naturally.

Is it OK to drive with it like this for a bit until I have time to get it welded back together or is this more of an urgent thing?

Don't worry about it, I think you just got unlucky.
You can probably drive safely with it unrepaired for a bit, HOWEVER:

Its just the body of your car, understand that if you drive with it will be harder to fix in the future. It may spread and it will get dirty and rust on the inside, meaning it will take longer to prep properly. Also, if it gets wet, it will let water inside the car, which can cause anything from mildew to serious electrical problems.
Currently, this may be a 1-2 hr fix for a competent autobody welder, especially if you pull the carpet beforehand, but if it spreads and rusts, then you may as well be looking at a cut and patch (rather than just grinding a bit out and rewelding it), which could be 5+ hours for a good job.

If it was me (and I didn't have a welder/couldn't weld) I would take it to an autobody shop/ local welder and ask them for an estimate to run a bead down the crack. Most welders will not charge for less than half an hr, but unless the damage is more serious than you can easily see in the pictures, it shouldn't be a hard fix. I would expect a quote somewhere from 30 - 100 dollars depending on how much actually needs to be done. Personally, I would wire wheel it clean, fold the inside carpet back, and run 1 bead right between the two metal sheets. Then after it cools, bang on the pinch weld with increasing force and see if it cracks. Finally, I'd keep my eye out for water just to make sure it was properly sealed. Wouldn't take me more than 1 hour (and I'm not a pro fabber.)

 

[T4R2014]

In before a half-asser just tells you to silicone and Rustoleum.

 

[Mantilgh]

It looks like it’s only spot welded there and it probably is still attached. That’s just seam sealer on the edge. It’s really not going to affect it structurally, even if that one spot weld broke.

I’d just seal it. It looks like it would be better for that joint if you could bend it the opposite way, but I’m guessing it gives you more clearance the way you are going.




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[gamefreakgc]

Finish what you started, if the crack is small us JB weld to seal it up. If big, like others said just take it to a fabricator or auto body shop and just ask for it to be welded on. Shouldn't cost much at all.

 

[BackOff]

I split mine open too.

Then used 3 vise-grip type pliers to squeeze it all back together.
Then started the re-bend with the pliers, to get the seam angled towards the engine bay.
Then went after it again with the hammer.
Then some spray bed liner.

If you weld it that seam sealer is flammable...BTW.

 

[WhiteBoomer04]

I split mine open too.

Then used 3 vise-grip type pliers to squeeze it all back together.
Then started the re-bend with the pliers, to get the seam angled towards the engine bay.
Then went after it again with the hammer.
Then some spray bed liner.

If you weld it that seam sealer is flammable...BTW.

Yup, what he said. Same experience when I did it like 14 years ago on my 4th gen.. No need to weld.

 

[Gymoutlaw]

You got it