Plastidip Emblems

TwistedJake

New member
I've been searching and searching but unable to find if anyone has done this and how it worked out.

I want these emblems black and curious if anyone has managed to plastidip them and it worked. There are some tiny areas to peel away from so not sure how it would work.

Alternatively, has anyone done the black overlays on these? They seem to just fill in a lot of the holes and not sure that I care for how they look.

I've used plastidip in the past and understand it but not on anything this intricate. I did the wheels on my last truck and they held up great for over 3 years.

 
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I've been searching and searching but unable to find if anyone has done this and how it worked out.

I want these emblems black and curious if anyone has managed to plastidip them and it worked. There are some tiny areas to peel away from so not sure how it would work.

Alternatively, has anyone done the black overlays on these? They seem to just fill in a lot of the holes and not sure that I care for how they look.

I've used plastidip in the past and understand it but not on anything this intricate.

I did mine black then anthracite. No problem other than being a bit intricate.
 
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Palm slap your forehead all you want but in my searching all I could find were the SR5 emblems. While I'll admit the search function on this forum is not something I have had the greatest success with, I do promise you that I did attempt to search prior to asking.

I do appreciate your input though. Super helpful.
 
I did this a couple weeks ago. I was having issues with consistency and realizing a few coats in that it was the wrong texture from what we were going for. I don’t remember brand off hand but it wasn’t the plasti dip brand and the finish was more rough than we wanted. Ended up buying a different finish but same company and the finish was much better and more forgiving Among that and other trial and error issues I ended up taking the badges off, spraying them then reapplying to the truck.
I went to Walmart and bought goo gone, fishing line, and some 3M automotive molding tape.
I ran blue painters tape around the badges real close to mark their place before removing them with fishing line.
I was going to hang the badges using fishing line then spray but I didn’t want lines from the lines (lol) so I used empty toilet paper rolls stood up on end the placed the badges on top. Worked very well. Between coats I went and used goo gone to take the adhesive off the paint.
Once the dip dried I took the tape and very tediously cut the strips to fit on the back side of the badges, making sure to cover every surface.
At the truck, I simply removed the backing of the tape and aligned and place the badges back where they came from.
Sorry for the crappy collection of pics but I wasn’t planning on a write up. I hope you see enough for it to make sense. 1 set of badges came out ok but the other set not so much. They all look alright if you don’t look too close. Lol.
I wish I had decided to do it this way in the beginning because I do agree that the little gaps proved difficult to peel from between but i am going to just buy the black badges and apply them soon.
 

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Google "plastidip badges" and tons of videos pop up.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...QwqsBCLABMAE&usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov

Didn't feel like searching for the one that I used. But you want about an inch of the vehicle's paint exposed away from the badges to give you enough plastic to grab onto when your peeling off the excess dip. Most videos have the tape really close the bag itself, which makes it a pain to remove later on. Also, use a spray wax or get your car waxed before you start the process then remove the wax on the badge itself with an alcohol swab.

Remove the hard to reach pieces of excess plasti dip with a wooden toothpick so you don't scratch your paint.
 
So I just did this for my ORP that I picked up last week. It's really time consuming.

I did about 6 coats of plastidip spaced 15 minutes apart. After about 30 minutes from the last coat I started to remove the dip from the surrounding areas but getting into all those nooks and crannies is a real pain. I used a toothpick to try and get in all of those small areas but it ended up pulling and scraping on the edges of some of the letters so a little bit of the silver shows through at random places and looks kind of jank.

I know I can just go over everything again with a couple more coats of dip but given the hassle of everything I feel like I should've just bought the noxlux letters and be done with it.
 
So I just did this for my ORP that I picked up last week. It's really time consuming.

I did about 6 coats of plastidip spaced 15 minutes apart. After about 30 minutes from the last coat I started to remove the dip from the surrounding areas but getting into all those nooks and crannies is a real pain. I used a toothpick to try and get in all of those small areas but it ended up pulling and scraping on the edges of some of the letters so a little bit of the silver shows through at random places and looks kind of jank.

I know I can just go over everything again with a couple more coats of dip but given the hassle of everything I feel like I should've just bought the noxlux letters and be done with it.

That is how I feel it would go if I tried it. Looking at the emblem those nooks and crannies look to be a PITA.
 
So I just did this for my ORP that I picked up last week. It's really time consuming.

I did about 6 coats of plastidip spaced 15 minutes apart. After about 30 minutes from the last coat I started to remove the dip from the surrounding areas but getting into all those nooks and crannies is a real pain. I used a toothpick to try and get in all of those small areas but it ended up pulling and scraping on the edges of some of the letters so a little bit of the silver shows through at random places and looks kind of jank.

I know I can just go over everything again with a couple more coats of dip but given the hassle of everything I feel like I should've just bought the noxlux letters and be done with it.

Thats because you waited too log after your last coat. If I remember correctly, plastidip burns into prior layers with each coat, softening up the other layers. that allows you to get clean brakes. Also, do you wax first and then remove the wax on just the badge?

I had to do my lift gate badges 2-3 times to get them right.
 
People use plasti dip because they can leave the emblems in place and just peel off the overspray. If your going to remove the emblems, do yourself a favor and use real paint and maybe even a clear coat. If not you’ll be doing it all over again in a few years.
 
Did the black overlays. They were nice but didn’t want the matte finish so I clear coated it.

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I Plasti Dip'd all of my emblems. I'll post pics tomorrow if you want as it's too late tonight and it'll look better in the day.

Regarding application. I read somewhere to heat up the can with hot water, either placing it in hot water or running it through hot water. I opted to leave it in the sun for an hour or so. Works like a charm, no bubbling. Several light coats and it's good to go!

I did all of embelms in Gunmetal grey.

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Not at all trying to be an asshat, but wow... Try google... it's your friend:deadhorse:
I tried Google first. Plenty of emblems being done which I expected, but not a single report of anyone successfully, or unsuccessfully, doing the TRD Off Road emblems of the newer years. There are some little intricate gaps that I wasn't confident could be taken care of nicely.

It's ok though, those who understood the question have provided good relevant feedback. I'll presume those who assume a simple search would reveal the proper info have never actually tried to find it or misunderstood the question.

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People use plasti dip because they can leave the emblems in place and just peel off the overspray. If your going to remove the emblems, do yourself a favor and use real paint and maybe even a clear coat. If not you’ll be doing it all over again in a few years.



Exactly what I was going to say.

Seriously just use normal paint if you take the letters off. You’ll have less issues up the road.


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I did the overlays as well, they work great and take 5 minutes to install. Found them for around $65 on Ebay

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They look good and for $65 I'd be all over it. Problem being that the kits for the later model TRD OR are about 3 times that much.

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As promised.

Gunmetal. All completed right withoit taking then off.

The mark or cut you see on the emblem, for the back is when my tailgate door struck the hinge on the garage door. I honestly don't see it anymore unless I'm looking right at it.
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As promised.

Gunmetal. All completed right withoit taking then off.

The mark or cut you see on the emblem, for the back is when my tailgate door struck the hinge on the garage door. I honestly don't see it anymore unless I'm looking right at it.
91d61ae3c697369f92ee19d7e38a640f.jpg
31c6880d50375707fcb76453265c2333.jpg
43526071b96e65ca9cbdab803d41d30b.jpg


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Thank you but those are not the emblems in question. The newer TRD Off Road emblem is the questionable item.

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