Please help before I drive thing into the lake

Majindan said:
It failed at the actual emissions testing facility this morning. I'm disconnecting the battery now on my lunch break to enable the soft ECU reset. I can't find anything online suggesting Torque does anything to cause the test to loop infinitely.
Click to expand...

Can you post a picture of test facility paper?
 
Sure sounds like a power supply problem. You could have a bad alt. bad battery or a parasitic drain. You could also have a bad ground. If it were my truck, I'd leave it sit for 24 hours, and then check the key off voltage. Should be north of 12 volts. Charging voltage should be at least 13.5V. I would remove and clean the engine ground by the diagnostic plug (aka the 'sensor ground') and the ground to driver's fenderwall. Also check your battery cables for any bubbling insulation (sign of corrosion underneath). Clean and reattach battery terminals. Rule out a parasitic drain by letting truck sit a half hour or more, remove negative terminal, and measure current between terminal and battery post. Should be no more than about 50mAmps. A load test (the one the parts stores do) is the gold standard for battery testing but not really required for this symptom set.

It's no surprise that the ECU would be more sensitive to a power issue than the radio.

If all that doesn't do it, it's time to consider the ECU. You can't really test it other than by swapping in another one.
 
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TheDurk said:
Sure sounds like a power supply problem. You could have a bad alt. bad battery or a parasitic drain. You could also have a bad ground. If it were my truck, I'd leave it sit for 24 hours, and then check the key off voltage. Should be north of 12 volts. Charging voltage should be at least 13.5V. I would remove and clean the engine ground by the diagnostic plug (aka the 'sensor ground') and the ground to driver's fenderwall. Also check your battery cables for any bubbling insulation (sign of corrosion underneath). Clean and reattach battery terminals. Rule out a parasitic drain by letting truck sit a half hour or more, remove negative terminal, and measure current between terminal and battery post. Should be no more than about 50mAmps. A load test (the one the parts stores do) is the gold standard for battery testing but not really required for this symptom set.

It's no surprise that the ECU would be more sensitive to a power issue than the radio.

If all that doesn't do it, it's time to consider the ECU. You can't really test it other than by swapping in another one.
Click to expand...

I agree, bad battery makes wonders in that generation toyotas.
 
<a href="http://imgur.com/nSiucLO"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/nSiucLO.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I disconnected the negative battery terminal yesterday for a few hours, Torque seems consistent now, and both tests that were incomplete on the test are now complete as of this morning. If they stay that way with no deviation, I'll run emissions again tomorrow morning and let you guys know. My battery terminals are clean by the way, I clean them to a shine everytime I change the oil or as needed.

holy crap thats a huge picture lol
 
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Passed emissions this morning! Going forward, I will no longer reset CEL codes with Torque if I'm due for emissions. Soft reset fixed the test cycles to stay on complete when they finished.
 
Wow... They put a little sad emoticon face on the fail certificate test result. Doctors will start doing this in a few years. Sorry, you have two weeks to live. : (

Glad you got it sorted. I'm sure that was just frustrating as hell.
 
Yeah but it made the smiley face on the passing document I got this morning all the sweeter lol. Emissions is nothing more than government racketeering.
 
Heads up I think I have an explanation for this (I'm in TN as well, have had to deal with a lot of bullshit with emissions.

I think the reason you kept failing was because either you kept resetting your car with Torque Pro or that OBD Reader + Torque Pro being connected 24/7 would keep resetting your emissions (software bug), which is why you'd get the generic Computer/Sensors Not Ready and you'd fail. Once a car is cleared, all the sensors are reset and on most-cars it takes anywhere from like 20-100+ miles for those sensors to be ready once again.
 
Nah, Torque had nothing to do with it. It was up and running up until I pulled into testing station. Clearing the CEL with an OBD reader/app vs resetting the ECU properly is what did it, in my case anyway. Torque has been invaluable, I wont slur it.
 
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