Please help - Engine shut off + Battery light, A/T Fluid light and OIL light

Lamer

New member
Spent 5 hrs on the road driving home yesterday. I was turning at a stop light and the 4runner shut down. headlights and dash lights were still on, but engine shut down.

three RED lights came on: Battery light, A/T Fluid light, and OIL light.

I muscled the steering to the right and pulled over (still had momentum as I hadn't completely stopped yet)

turned the key to off, and back to ACC. the three lights did NOT illuminate.

It started no problem. no bad lights, no issues. and made it home no problem.

I started and moved it this morning with no issue.

RECENT WORK DONE TO THE 4RUNNER: (all work done at a toyota dealer service center)
-Timing belt
-water pump
-Crank Seal
-Cam Seal
-All three drive belts
-Thermostat

Has anyone ever heard of this before??? I would like to know if this is a serious issue.
 
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Sounds electrical. I would clean and inspect all the grounding points and the battery connects. All so look for and signs of wires shorting. My moms 4runner did something similar when the alternator died. No battery light after the event but the alternator was not charging at all.


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We’re taking ours in tomorrow morning for the same service, if our coolant leak is from the water pump. How much did they charge you? I’d like to be able to compare to the estimate we receive.

I got nuthin’ on your shutdown scenario. Apologies for hijacking your thread.
 
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Check your main ECU fuse, though an armchair guess says fuel pump or possible IAC.

How dirty is the throttle body?
 
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Can you pull any codes from it?

If the IAC is bad, it may throw a PO505 code. But a visual inspection usually yields more evidence that it is good/bad based upon the cleanliness of the throttle body and IAC itself.

For the OP, he would need to pull the intake tube and take a peak. Sounds like a fuel pump to me though.
 
check ground wire points also how are the battery terminals, could be as simple as a loose connection or corroded wire. This would be a great time to buy a test light it is not expensive and is a simple great tool to diagnose electrical problems don't get the cheapest one but like otc or lisle they are around 20 bucks on amazon
 
When car dies and key is still in the on position those lights will always be on so don’t get fixated on that. Think simpler. I vote IAC or fuel issue.
 
Check your main ECU fuse, though an armchair guess says fuel pump or possible IAC.

How dirty is the throttle body?

Can you pull any codes from it?

check ground wire points also how are the battery terminals, could be as simple as a loose connection or corroded wire. This would be a great time to buy a test light it is not expensive and is a simple great tool to diagnose electrical problems don't get the cheapest one but like otc or lisle they are around 20 bucks on amazon

When car dies and key is still in the on position those lights will always be on so don’t get fixated on that. Think simpler. I vote IAC or fuel issue.

THanks for all the input! really appreciate it. and certainly gives me some direction and items to look at.

I went to Autozone to pull codes. there were none. he checked the battery and alternator. alternator = GOOD, battery = BAD. I replaced the battery right then and there with a Duralast Gold.

I have had zero issues with the fuel pump in terms of lagging, or engine bogging down. but if the issue persists, I will certainly take into consideration.

Also learned that the lights that came on, will always come on when the key in ACC position and the engine is off. so those lights, had nothing to do with the problem.
 
That could have been your problem, or the root cause of such. Like [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] mentioned, make sure those terminals are good to go.
 
That could have been your problem, or the root cause of such. Like [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] mentioned, make sure those terminals are good to go.

oh ya I watched the tech tighten the battery terminals. but I did notice the battery ground was in bad shape. so I have some 4-gauge wire on order to eventually do the big 3 mod. but will do the ground wire as soon as it gets here.
 

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