POLL: What Brand & Type of Oil Do You Use?

[Tacticalrunner]

Yea I've found out with my runner the brake booster does all the cylinders due to it being a direct conection to the intake manifold. And I usually stick to seafoam for the fuel. I may just do the marvel for next oil change but so far it seems to be running well after the seafoam flush lastnight.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

 

[StreetCreeper]

Mine runs great on Castrol GTX 10W-30 and that's what I plan on sticking with.

It (and Lucas) got my dad's 22R-E to 490k+ without a rebuild, so I would say it's pretty darn good.

490k+ is impressive

Amsoil 5w-30 Full synthetic signature. Black bottle red cap. Every other change or so I add some marvel mystery oil. I run a pl20195 pureone filter. Roughly 10k oil and filter change intervals. Oil still comes out with a little golden honey to it. 226k miles on the 5VZ. When I had the valve covers off around 190k to change them everything was shiny and smooth, no sludge in sight.

Redline MT90 GL4 in the trans and royal purple 75w90 GL5 in everything else right now, though I'm probably going to go full Amsoil soon.

In your opinion, what does the additive Marvel Mystery Oil do that the Amsoil alone does not?

 

[WallyWest]

I read a ridiculous number of discussions, articles, etc... about this when I bought my 4Runner. With so much conflicting info I tend to side with the camp that says "It don't matter".

That said, I ended up going with Castrol GTX synthetic high mileage oil. Not the type for high mileage engines, I mean the type for extended oil change intervals. And a Purolator 1 filter.

I'm pretty close to due for an oil change, and recently checked the level. It was still full, so yay no leaks, and I was surprised at the appearance of the oil. I'm used to seeing the oil be dark, mostly black, by this point. On the dipstick at least it looked as good as new. Completely clear with a slight amber color to it, like it was just poured from the can.

I used to use Mobile 1 oil and filters, and I've never seen oil look this good after 5000 miles. I don't know if this is a testament to the oil and filter, or if the engine is just really clean in there. I can say the oil that came out of it when I changed it the first time was not this clean, but I have no idea how long it had been since the last change either.

Anyway, I'm happy with this combo so far.

 

[Runer4Life]

This is the only oil that goes in my 4Runner!

 

[Troybylt]

490k+ is impressive



In your opinion, what does the additive Marvel Mystery Oil do that the Amsoil alone does not?

My old boss had 650k on his 22RE powered Toyota Truck. To the best of my knowledge he's still driving it occasionally. He uses Mobil 1 and mobil 1 filters. He's also a 35yr Toyota certified ASE Master tech, though he swears all he's done is a couple of brake jobs, three clutches, and the occasional seal. I believe he did a head gasket around 500k not because it blew but because it was just time and he was bored.

In my opinion, mostly just takes an extra couple of bucks out of my wallet. I just want this thing to run forever so I figure it can't hurt but might help. I've had the top end off and it's all good inside, did my injectors the other day and looked down the tubes, all the intake valves are spotless. I'm really looking forward to seeing the condition of the bottom end, I need to do my oil pan seal before long, no drips yet, but it's got a nasty grimy oil film around the pan. Going to have my front diff out anyway to switch to 4:30 to match the locker that's going in soon.

 

[LeeMajors]

Been running D3 OEM filter w Rotella T6 5w40.

 

[nc-grayson]

There's been a lot or recent threads about this subject, which has admittedly got me scratching my head. I've always used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.

Reading threads like this make me think I'm spending money in the wrong places, i.e. I'm starting to believe some truth that the cheapest oil that Toyota recommended back in 2000 is still sufficient. That said, it'll be hard for me to switch back to full conventional.

If it were my daily driver, I could see making the switch back to conventional, because I'd be on top of regular changes every few months or so. As it is now, my 3rd gen sees maybe 5k a year, so I like knowing that there's some higher quality lube in there for those extended periods. I said lube.

1 Vote for Mobil 1 Full synthetic.

 

[LittleCaesar]

This engine, the 5vz is very easy on oil. Same goes for the 2uz. I'd say cooking would work in it.

Other Toyota engines, such as some variations of the 2az-fe, is quite particular about oil due to a faulty use of piston rings and likes to burn it. Inherently design and engineering of engines today play the biggest part in an engine's longevity today.

 

[A.Wilson013]

I use Mobil 1 5-30 full synthetic. I buy it at Wal-Mart for ~$30 (after tax) and head across the street to the dealership to get it changed. Usually labor+filter comes out to about $25 (it used to be cheaper... I think they're charging me more for labor to take the skids off?).

So for $55 or so I get my oil changed, and sit in the nice lobby drinking decent coffee and watching the cooking channel. My only complaint is that the cooking channel is ALWAYS on. No idea what the deal is there.

 

[DeKalbOffroad]

Can you elaborate a little on what kind of things you've seen that make you feel that Mobile 1 is superior? I'm not questioning your opinion, I'm just curious what your experiences have been.

In all that time, have you or your family witnessed particular oils that have cause damage to engines?

Well of course! Well the only oils we have seen complete failure just like from gelling or splitting would be Quaker State and In-house oils like the Walmart brand. All the other oils are solid with few failures here and there that are generally operator error. Our baseline oil change the "39.99" oil change is usually Castrol or Havoline depending on sale/price from Advanced Auto (where we get all our oil and parts) or Oreilly's or Napa. You shop around as a business owner. Even though we get Dealer or wholesale pricing they are still different pricing place to place. Those oils are solid for DDs, gives you enough protection while having a good price point. The kings of high dollar oil would be Mobil 1, Amsoil and Royal Purple. My father has tested them all as far as performance in Mud Bog and drag trucks and cars go. Using high dollar builds he always goes Mobil 1. I go Mobil 1 in my 2011 Camaro SS RS, my 1999 Subaru 2.5 rally car and my 1999 4runner SR5. We have seen and strongly advise not to use Amsoil to our costumers because we've seen 1st hand piston scoring from it. Royal Purple is a solid oil but still falls short to Mobil 1. If i had to have an oil that I had to go 10,000-15,000 on 1 change... I'd be all over Mobil. In the end its all personal preference i guess even though we can see Mobil 1 outperforming in viscosity in almost all tests. Which I'm religious about changes every 3k so majority of oils would work. But when it comes to our high test builds we always grab Mobil 1. I also have plenty of stories that I have seen and that have been told to me by my father but this post is long enough.

 

[Kanoe]

Amsoil XL5w30 for me. With a toyota d3 filter.

Why Amsoil? It is carried at my local auto parts store and believe it or not it is the cheapest synthetic I can consistently get in town. Others periodically go on sale cheaper but I can get a good price on the Amsoil whenever I need it.

I use the XL rather than the signature line because I live in a very dusty in summer, cold in winter environment and I don't push the OCI long enough to justify the expense of the best.

 

[T4R2014]

I use Mobil 1 5-30 full synthetic. I buy it at Wal-Mart for ~$30 (after tax) and head across the street to the dealership to get it changed. Usually labor+filter comes out to about $25 (it used to be cheaper... I think they're charging me more for labor to take the skids off?).

So for $55 or so I get my oil changed, and sit in the nice lobby drinking decent coffee and watching the cooking channel. My only complaint is that the cooking channel is ALWAYS on. No idea what the deal is there.

Hahaha, similar here. I ain't got no time to be changing some oil. I just buy my friend lunch and he changes it in his shop with my supplies.

 

[StreetCreeper]

*for continued info gathering — bumpity-bump*

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

Red Line Diesel 15W40. Nothing but the best for my truck!

Because it's a TRUE synthetic oil made from PolyolEster basestocks.

 

[ichael]

If anyones curious about oil, look into some of the Blackstone Laboratories testing. been a while but synthetics are amazing compared to dyno oil.

 

[AntleredRuin]

I just use the Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage Synthetic Blend 5w30.
Not because of the 'High Mileage', but because of the 'Synthetic', pricing, and reviews. Sometimes I substitute a quart of MMO for the last 6th quart of MaxLife.

I also use the MaxLife High Mileage Synthetic ATF every other oil change. Just a drain and fill every 8-10k.

 

[PWD4R]

I have always used castrol full synthetic except this last oil change (first one since I have owned this 1999 T4R) was the synthetic blend from Toyota (whatever the heck they use). I will go back to fully synthetic next change and it'll probably be castrol.

 

[kolelt]

Toyota TOMs supra has castrol all over it !!! I trust it haha

 

[StreetCreeper]

Red Line Diesel 15W40. Nothing but the best for my truck!

Because it's a TRUE synthetic oil made from PolyolEster basestocks.

What's the reasoning for the heavier weight?

 

[treverd]

Every reply under the sun in this thread. Lot of love for mobil 1. What weight is recommended for southeast Virginia?