Popping at low speed after alignment

[4runherpow]

So, I redid basically my entire suspension recently, including the OEM LCAs. I had to get an alignment done twice because the first time the Toyota service guy did not really adjust anything. I noticed, because my camber was positive before I took it in and still positive after (visually).

I came back in and read them the riot act and they put the rig back up on the alignment machine (with me in the shop) and sure enough the alignment was out (positive camber 1.2, 1.6)

Long and short is they got the alignment close to where it needed to be on the second try. I was satisfied... but.... I noticed when the tech finished up he didn’t torque down the LCAs.... what the hell. I should of mentioned it but I had to leave as the alignment took freakin 2.5 hours.

This past week (200 miles post alignment) I was getting a popping sound on slow turns when parking and while backing up, etc.

I went to torque down the LCAs because I read this noise can be indicative of loose cam bolts. Sure enough, when I went to tighten them they were NOT EVEN CLOSE to being torqued down. I had to give them all basically 10-12, 1/2 turns before they torqued to 130lb on my wrench. What the hell man. It’s like if you don’t do this stuff yourself it’s never done right. Even at the dealership. Unreal.

I haven’t heard the pop since I tightened them (only been a day though).

Question:

1. Could I have changed the alignment by tightening the cam bolts? The wheels were fixed on the ground so I assumed it wouldn’t change the alignment but I’d like someone to chime in who knows better than me please. And thank you.

2. What was the pooping noise exactly of it was LCAs (which seems common when not torqued)? Was it the cam popping up and over the metal side walls that keep the cam in place? Hoping not. Although a couple of my metal flaps did look a little disfigured. Not a lot. But a little. And I can’t tell if the cam bolts are in the same position as they were in the alignment shop. Are those flaps suppose to be PERFECTLY straight?

Anyhow, they are all now torqued to 130lb and the front really does feel tighter and less squiggly over small bumps. No popping. Unreal

 

[smyles1632]

1. Yes

2. No, they don't have to be straight.

 

[4runherpow]

1. Yes

2. No, they don't have to be straight.

1. I read somewhere that alignment won’t change if you’re tightening on ground (ie wheels are not on slip plates.) my wheels were on the ground. And I didn’t see cam bolts move.

Does this change your opinion? Thank you

 

[smyles1632]

No it doesn't.

 

[4runherpow]

1. I read somewhere that alignment won’t change if you’re tightening on ground (ie wheels are not on slip plates.) my wheels were on the ground. And I didn’t see cam bolts move.

Does this change your opinion? Thank you

Anyone else know....

Does alignment change if I torque down LCA bolts with wheels on the ground? Just want to confirm this before I spend the time taking her back to the shop.

She feels like she drives straight after torquing but that might not mean anything

 

[AuSeeker]

Anyone else know....

Does alignment change if I torque down LCA bolts with wheels on the ground? Just want to confirm this before I spend the time taking her back to the shop.

She feels like she drives straight after torquing but that might not mean anything

I don't know the answer...but since they didn't torque the cam bolts I would take it back and have them check the alignment and realign it if it's off from where they had it set!!

Just an FYI the torque should rechecked after a week or so even if they had done the job correctly.

 

[4runherpow]

Don’t know why my last post was deleted....

Thanks to everyone who replied.

I’d still like a definitive answer that if I don’t move the cams themselves, does just tightening the nut change alignment. Just trying to learn how this all works.

Thanks in advance

 

[Ebolavirus6]

could be another suspension component. I have been chasing down a mysterious clunk in my suspension. Replaced sway bar bushings (helped), LCA's (helped) and now I think its the sway bar endlinks. Everyones suspension noises are different, so I would take a video if possible. You could also try greasing your suspension and driveline.

 

[smyles1632]

Again: if you tighten the bolts w/o holding the cam bolts with a wrench, they could spin. Did they? Who knows. But having wheels on the ground doesn't prevent it by itself; if you still don't believe it, losen the bolts completely and see what happens.

 

[metramm]

Ebola,

I had clunking in the front of my 06.

I swapped swaybar endlinks, swaybar bushings and cv axles due to torn boots.

Turned out one axle was toast and the joint inside was clunking.

After replacing them all, no more clunks.

Pull/push your cv axle to see if it has play in it. good luck!

 

[Ebolavirus6]

Ebola,

I had clunking in the front of my 06.

I swapped swaybar endlinks, swaybar bushings and cv axles due to torn boots.

Turned out one axle was toast and the joint inside was clunking.

After replacing them all, no more clunks.

Pull/push your cv axle to see if it has play in it. good luck!

Yes definitely checked that, tie rods, and upper suspension components. Im thinking that its the endlinks because I started hearing the noise sometime after I installed a leveling kit and there is considerable play in them. Currently trying to find extended or adjustable links but I can't find much. Ill probably toss on some cheap moog ones to see if that cures the problem. FWIW I've taken my truck to the shop 3 separate times and they couldnt pinpoint the issue.


EDIT: Swapped out front endlinks today. Clunk is gone. Although this was probably the sole culprit of my suspension noises, Im very glad I swapped out LCA's, Sway bushings and endlinks. Front end feels so much better.