Post Daystar Alignment Problems

asmtrd

New member
I just had the Daystar lift installed 2.5/1.5 kit. Now my local shop says that they can't get me truck in spec when aligning it. I drove it after they messed with it and it pulls to the left really bad. Has anyone else had problems with get the alignment done after a spacer lift? I am looking to take it back this coming monday so they can fix it.
 
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...take it to another shop that knows what they are doing...

:iagree:


Somewhere around the 3" lift threshold some have trouble getting adequate caster. Most get close enough that it drives fine.

-IMHO what you want is a touch of negative camber (which should be easy) and fairly equal (R to L). I consider it to be ok if the L side number is a hair closer to zero than the right. It'll equal out with the drivers weight and full fuel, speaking of that get it aligned with around 1/2 a tank.

-The toe-in should not be near zero even though that's "within spec". It needs a touch of toe-in for stability.

-The caster should be the highest positive value (within spec) they can achieve AND be equal. So, what will happen is they'll need to determine which side can achieve the least amount of positive caster and then match the other side to it.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
 
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I just had the Daystar lift installed 2.5/1.5 kit. Now my local shop says that they can't get me truck in spec when aligning it. I drove it after they messed with it and it pulls to the left really bad. Has anyone else had problems with get the alignment done after a spacer lift? I am looking to take it back this coming monday so they can fix it.

i'm having the same problem as you..

i took it back to the shop to have them double check the alignment today..this shop is a 4x4 shop in boise, so i figured they knew what they were doing....

anyway, they said it check out OK. made sure tire pressures were good...

and, yet - still pulling to the left - and, maybe worse now. but, that could be mental.

they concluded that it may be something with the stability control system...and resetting the steering column...

??

they also replaced a cv axle that had a torn boot, leaky fluid.

should i just take it to another shop for an alignment check - should i go to the independent toyota mechanic i usually go to. (not sure if he does alignments)...

any ideas on what the issue may be?

thanks
 
I'm curious to find out what you guys find with this. It's weird that a spacer lift would throw things off that much. How old are your runners? I'm itching to get my daystar installed but I've got some miles and am now concerened I will run into the same problem.
 
Mine installed great. Everything in spec. Mine drives get and seems to have no issues pulling. I had mine done at the dealer. But I also worked there and was back there helping.
 
I'm curious to find out what you guys find with this. It's weird that a spacer lift would throw things off that much. How old are your runners? I'm itching to get my daystar installed but I've got some miles and am now concerened I will run into the same problem.

i have a 2008 SE, 41k miles.

i do not pretend to know anything about cars/trucks - so, i'm just wanting to get feedback on what my issue may be so i can be a little "smarter" when working with the next mechanic.

the shop that installed my lift did the best they could with the alignment - and, that's all they can do for me. like i said - they concluded it was something with the stability control or steering wheel motor - because the alignment was set good...tires good, etc.

i'm hoping to get the print out of the alignment specs from them today (work was done at a different location than the store front i was at).

anyway - i'm hoping it's nothing with XREAS - but, i do not think they messed with that - they were aware and did not mention anything.

as i said, they replaced a cv axle - but, they assured me that would have nothing to do with it.

hopefully it is just a case of their alignment guy not being skilled enough.. still, the pull is pretty bad...so, how bad of a job could he have done...
 
:iagree:


-The toe-in should not be near zero even though that's "within spec". It needs a touch of toe-in for stability.


I think you meant toe-in for tire wear, but everything else was spot on. On a rear wheel drive it is toed in and a front is toed out while sitting still. The theory is that when driving toe should go to zero. Everything else is spot on.
 
Probably the most important setting post-lift is caster. A lot of chain shops will just slap their alignment gear on the vehicle, make the numbers equal and call it aligned. If they do not first max out the caster and get it as close to the factory setting of 3-3.5 then the vehicle will drive poorly. My first alignment after installing my lift was done by a chain shop and the result was horrible. I even took it back and asked them to max out the caster, to which they showed me they were only able to get it to 1.3. I drove it this way for a year and finally took it to a specialty wheel and alignment shop. I told them I wanted the caster maxed out, as close to 3.5 as they can get it. They ended up able to get 3.1 and the truck handles like its on train tracks. Super stable and easy to drive. Moral of the story, not all alignment shops are equal and the foundation to a stable lifted truck is MAX CASTER!!
 
Probably the most important setting post-lift is caster. A lot of chain shops will just slap their alignment gear on the vehicle, make the numbers equal and call it aligned. If they do not first max out the caster and get it as close to the factory setting of 3-3.5 then the vehicle will drive poorly. My first alignment after installing my lift was done by a chain shop and the result was horrible. I even took it back and asked them to max out the caster, to which they showed me they were only able to get it to 1.3. I drove it this way for a year and finally took it to a specialty wheel and alignment shop. I told them I wanted the caster maxed out, as close to 3.5 as they can get it. They ended up able to get 3.1 and the truck handles like its on train tracks. Super stable and easy to drive. Moral of the story, not all alignment shops are equal and the foundation to a stable lifted truck is MAX CASTER!!

Good info. I'm not the informed when it comes to front end stuff such as alignment issues. This thread is getting to be a good learning experience.:lookout:
 
It is always a good idea to ask for a print out of your alignment. Then if there are issues you can post up the specs for us to look at and see if they look good or not.
 
It is always a good idea to ask for a print out of your alignment. Then if there are issues you can post up the specs for us to look at and see if they look good or not.


still pulls to the left...pain in the ass.

will drift one full lane width in less than 500'....at 60 mph.

i have to constantly correct and fight the left pull.

here is the print out from the second alignment shop that check the alignment and said all was good..even though the caster was low. any thoughts?

4RunnerAlignment.PNG


the tech at the tire shop told me it was in alignment - i asked him about what the caster should be set to to be in spec. he said it was low (which it is at 2.1 and 2.2, left and right, respectively)... but, he assured me that it would not cause the vehicle to pull because it was equal.

i don't know enough about this stuff - so, i accepted his input.

is there anything else to try with the alignment. should i ask them to set to max positive caster first - then, set camber and toe?

would this potentially fix my problem?

it's crazy how hard it is to get people/shops to help and fix your problem.....

thanks
 
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