Power fuse issue

the_welfare_wagon

New member
So back in June I heard something in my back left window fall inside the door. I manged to force it up and keep it shut since it no longer worked. The next day I used my windows as normal until they stopped going up. 30 amp power fuse was blown. So I put in another and it immediately blew. So I figured I had a short. Unplugged the motor that had just failed and popped in a new fuse and it worked fine..... until today

Went to McDonald's with my window down and got my food rolled it back up. Went to roll it down at a stop light not even 5 minutes away. Nothing. No windows or doors worked. Not even the seats which means power fuse blew again.

When I went to go take the fuse out I'm not 100% sure it was blown. Because I saw a little spark inside of it when I was trying to pull it out.

Any thoughts on this? Obviously a short is causing this but why now? Why 3 months after my original failure?

I should also add that the window that failed in June was well on its way out. None of my other windows are weak at all or show signs of failing like that one. I should also add that the window that failed is still unplugged.

Should I just start unplugging windows and seeing which one pops the fuse?

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So back in June I heard something in my back left window fall inside the door. I manged to force it up and keep it shut since it no longer worked. The next day I used my windows as normal until they stopped going up. 30 amp power fuse was blown. So I put in another and it immediately blew. So I figured I had a short. Unplugged the motor that had just failed and popped in a new fuse and it worked fine..... until today

Went to McDonald's with my window down and got my food rolled it back up. Went to roll it down at a stop light not even 5 minutes away. Nothing. No windows or doors worked. Not even the seats which means power fuse blew again.

When I went to go take the fuse out I'm not 100% sure it was blown. Because I saw a little spark inside of it when I was trying to pull it out.

Any thoughts on this? Obviously a short is causing this but why now? Why 3 months after my original failure?

I should also add that the window that failed in June was well on its way out. None of my other windows are weak at all or show signs of failing like that one. I should also add that the window that failed is still unplugged.

Should I just start unplugging windows and seeing which one pops the fuse?

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Start by looking at the wires in the driver door wire loom. There might be a wire that kinked or chafed over time causing a short. If you are getting 12 volts on the power side of the fuse then the short would be on the load side of the fuse circuit going to the doors.
 
Start by looking at the wires in the driver door wire loom. There might be a wire that kinked or chafed over time causing a short. If you are getting 12 volts on the power side of the fuse then the short would be on the load side of the fuse circuit going to the doors.
Forgive me I am not good at all with electrical but I put a multimeter to the empty fuse slot and I'm getting a constant 11.9

So this would basically confirm that the issue is either the motors or a kinked wire?

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Forgive me I am not good at all with electrical but I put a multimeter to the empty fuse slot and I'm getting a constant 11.9

So this would basically confirm that the issue is either the motors or a kinked wire?

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On the fuse one side is the power and the other load. With ignition on' meter set 20vdc touch the black lead to ground' the red to one of the fuse terminals the side that has 12v DC is the power side, the other being the load. Turn the ignition off now test the loadside resistance ohms.. test each up and down switch and lock switch. 0 ohms is a short.
 
Ok so didn't do the ohms test yet however I unplugged all windows and the 2 front seats except for the sunroof and back window cause they are annoying to get to and I only had about an hour today to do this.

Put fuse in and didn't blow. Turned the car to the ON position and it took about 5 or 6 seconds but it popped even with all that disconnected. I'm gonna inspect the harness but from what I saw it looks untouched, though I'll have to do a closer inspection when I get time tomorrow and Saturday.

I'm just glad this happened while the windows were up ugh....

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On the fuse one side is the power and the other load. With ignition on' meter set 20vdc touch the black lead to ground' the red to one of the fuse terminals the side that has 12v DC is the power side, the other being the load. Turn the ignition off now test the loadside resistance ohms.. test each up and down switch and lock switch. 0 ohms is a short.
Ok so I'm getting 400 ohms with all motors disconnected. Wiggling the wires behind the dash/fuse box brought it down to about 33 ohms.

Pulling a couple of fuses brought the ohms from 400 to 350 ish.

So basically this short could be anywhere?

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Well I found it.......

Seems to be the power seat. Any thoughts?
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That's one toasty wire! You most likely had a short to ground at the end of that burned up section of wire. The correct way to repair it would be to trace the wire in both directions and replace what burned up with new wire. You may need to replace other wires as necessary due to the meltiness. Make sure to test the circuit for infinite resistance to ground after your repair (unplug the load connector).
 
That's one toasty wire! You most likely had a short to ground at the end of that burned up section of wire. The correct way to repair it would be to trace the wire in both directions and replace what burned up with new wire. You may need to replace other wires as necessary due to the meltiness. Make sure to test the circuit for infinite resistance to ground after your repair (unplug the load connector).
Yeah that's the plan. Just annoying so I'll try to tackle that this weekend.

And to think ever since I got my 4runner I've wanted to convert to the cloth manual seats. Now I really have a reason to do it.



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