alexatwork21
New member
I did some searching and didn't find anything definitive on here, so I figured I would make a quick thread about my experience incase anyone else has a similar issue. If this is a duplicate, just ignore it.
My drivers side front lock started making a chattering noise when either the FOB or power lock switch was pressed (locking only). It still locked, however, the chattering noise was LOUD and annoying.
After a bit of research, I found out that it's probably the power lock actuator. I assumed that the actuator was a seperate piece on it's own, but it turns out it's the door latch assembly as well. It's part shared with a handfull of Toyota and Lexus models. The replacement part is about $200 or so in the US and about $400 in Canada (Toyota OEM part 69040-02120)
Here is a brief run down of what was involved:
Disassable the door panel as you normally would...
-Remove screws behind the inner door handle and under the arm rest
-Remove plastic trim piece where the rear view mirror is mounted
-Remove plastic poke-out clip thing just below the mirror mount on the inside
-Yank the bottom of the door panel to pop out the clips
-Disconnect all wiring harnesses (Power windows/locks,puddle light, etc)
-Disconnect door latch and lock cables on the door panel side of them
Removal of the Latch itself:
-Disconnect Latch wiring harness
-Remove the 3 hex bolts on the outside end of the door (right by the latch)
-Remove the 10mm bolt 2/3 of the way down the door near the left side. This holds the window track in place on the inside of the door. It's removal will make the latch removal easier
-Push the latch in a bit where you disconnected the wiring harness earlier, so that you can drop the assembly down.
-The rod which connects to the outer door handle should slide right off as you move the assembly down in the door
-Once the rod is out of it's mount, you should be able to wiggle the latch assembly out of the door itself
At this point, you should have the new and old latches on your work bench
-Remove the two cables from the old latch assembly and attach them to the new latch assembly
-The door latch cable is a bit confusing at first, but the cable mounts to the latch assembly behind a small door that keeps it in place. It's just a matter of popping the little plastic door open on the old one, and then when you have it in place on the new one, close the little door on top of it.
Installation is the opposite of removal, however, there were a couple of quirks
-When you are sliding the new latch assembly up and into place, make sure you are sliding the outer door latch rod into place. Once the 3 Hex bolts are in, you will not be able to attach it
-Use caution when placing it, the new latch will have foam surrounds around the openings which may tear if you're rough with it.
-The wiring harness on the new latch was a bit of a pain to press through the hole. Just make sure it's aligned properly.
-Install and tighten the 3 hex bolts, reverse the door panel removal steps, and you're all done.
-After everything is back together, your automatic power window will not work properly. You'll have to roll the window down all the way and then back up to reset it.
Hope this helps someone. I searched for a run through but couldn't find one. All in all it should take about 30 minutes if you're familiar how to get the door panel off. I'm assuming this run through should work on any of the 4 doors of the vehicle.
My drivers side front lock started making a chattering noise when either the FOB or power lock switch was pressed (locking only). It still locked, however, the chattering noise was LOUD and annoying.
After a bit of research, I found out that it's probably the power lock actuator. I assumed that the actuator was a seperate piece on it's own, but it turns out it's the door latch assembly as well. It's part shared with a handfull of Toyota and Lexus models. The replacement part is about $200 or so in the US and about $400 in Canada (Toyota OEM part 69040-02120)
Here is a brief run down of what was involved:
Disassable the door panel as you normally would...
-Remove screws behind the inner door handle and under the arm rest
-Remove plastic trim piece where the rear view mirror is mounted
-Remove plastic poke-out clip thing just below the mirror mount on the inside
-Yank the bottom of the door panel to pop out the clips
-Disconnect all wiring harnesses (Power windows/locks,puddle light, etc)
-Disconnect door latch and lock cables on the door panel side of them
Removal of the Latch itself:
-Disconnect Latch wiring harness
-Remove the 3 hex bolts on the outside end of the door (right by the latch)
-Remove the 10mm bolt 2/3 of the way down the door near the left side. This holds the window track in place on the inside of the door. It's removal will make the latch removal easier
-Push the latch in a bit where you disconnected the wiring harness earlier, so that you can drop the assembly down.
-The rod which connects to the outer door handle should slide right off as you move the assembly down in the door
-Once the rod is out of it's mount, you should be able to wiggle the latch assembly out of the door itself
At this point, you should have the new and old latches on your work bench
-Remove the two cables from the old latch assembly and attach them to the new latch assembly
-The door latch cable is a bit confusing at first, but the cable mounts to the latch assembly behind a small door that keeps it in place. It's just a matter of popping the little plastic door open on the old one, and then when you have it in place on the new one, close the little door on top of it.
Installation is the opposite of removal, however, there were a couple of quirks
-When you are sliding the new latch assembly up and into place, make sure you are sliding the outer door latch rod into place. Once the 3 Hex bolts are in, you will not be able to attach it
-Use caution when placing it, the new latch will have foam surrounds around the openings which may tear if you're rough with it.
-The wiring harness on the new latch was a bit of a pain to press through the hole. Just make sure it's aligned properly.
-Install and tighten the 3 hex bolts, reverse the door panel removal steps, and you're all done.
-After everything is back together, your automatic power window will not work properly. You'll have to roll the window down all the way and then back up to reset it.
Hope this helps someone. I searched for a run through but couldn't find one. All in all it should take about 30 minutes if you're familiar how to get the door panel off. I'm assuming this run through should work on any of the 4 doors of the vehicle.
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