Power steeering rack appears to be leaking

J

jimmyrecluse

New member
The boots on the rack are coated with what is likely PS fluid. The seals inside must be worn...

I've searched, and general consensus seems to be to buy OEM and not a rebuild.

Anyone know of a solid rebuild source otherwise? Is it not possible to have it rebuilt because I see RockAuto sells a rebuild kit.

Are there any suspension parts I should replace/upgrade while I'm down there, bushings etc?
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
If you choose to go the rebuild your old reck route, you should look into replacing your inner and outter tie rods and throw in some poly rack bushings.
 
Last edited:
Check with your local Toyota parts counter, they may offer remans but I would recommend OEM for longevity. My non Toyota reman leaks, just barely, but it still leaks within two years from install.
 
ThorInc said:
Check with your local Toyota parts counter, they may offer remans but I would recommend OEM for longevity. My non Toyota reman leaks, just barely, but it still leaks within two years from install.
Click to expand...

Not even worth it for me. Ill call Toyota to see what a new rack costs.
 
run lucas stop leak and ignore it until it becomes a real problem in a few years.

in the meantime keep an eye open for a scrapyard steering rack
 
I just dealt with this on my Tacoma and went the OEM refab one. Mine was leaking so bad I didn't have power steering for close to 4 months. I was able to find on on local Craigslist. I did my outter to rods along with a new pump for less than $300.

It's really not difficult. Just need a 17mm power steering wrench for the fittings.
 
rubegoldberg said:
run lucas stop leak and ignore it until it becomes a real problem in a few years.

in the meantime keep an eye open for a scrapyard steering rack
Click to expand...

Why a scrapyard rack? Isn't that a gamble? I'll check out the stop leak, it's not bad for now except that there is a lot of play in the right wheel and I think it's what is causing the right tire to wear on the outer edge. Alignment is perfect.
 
Last edited:
You could try I suppose. I am keeping my 4Runner for a long time so just bought one off Toyota of Dallas for around $575.
 
Well, FWIW, I had the rack replaced before I agreed to buy my 4Runner about 6 years ago. I didn't know better at the time, so of course it was just some reman'd nonsense.

About 2 years ago I was told it has a slight leak in one of the seals and that it was probably from a torn boot letting in some dirt. They told me to just keep an eye on the fluid levels but it's not a massive leak. I put some electrical tape on the boot, and then just replaced the torn boot a few weeks ago when I was doing my ITR and OTREs.

I'm not kidding, the fluid level drops maybe a few millimeters ever few months. I've done the siphon and refill method (what a tedious method) a couple of times, and it seems to be still moving along.

I'm sure it's not ideal to have a slight leak in your rack, but, for me at least, it hasn't been the end of the world. Hope that helps! And if you're like me and just like replacing stuff preventatively, then by all means, get after it!
 
Re

I ran into this issue about 6 months ago. I went to the local junk yard and found a 4runner with a complete steering rack that had no visible damage. I got it for $45 so at that price it was worth the gamble. I did the swap myself in the drive way. It is super easy on the 3rd gens. I watched the video of a guy doing a steering rack swap on a 4th gen thinking it would be similar but it was a lot easier. Once you drop your skid plate you have all the room in the world.
 
GameFreak, Maybe I should try other dealers out of state. I don't know if theyd take an order over the phone or ship it but it's worth the $200 to try.

Atalarico, I agree. I'm going to buy a new rack and not mess around. LAbor alone isn't going to be cheap, might as well make it last.
 
SCHUNTER1969 said:
I ran into this issue about 6 months ago. I went to the local junk yard and found a 4runner with a complete steering rack that had no visible damage. I got it for $45 so at that price it was worth the gamble. I did the swap myself in the drive way. It is super easy on the 3rd gens. I watched the video of a guy doing a steering rack swap on a 4th gen thinking it would be similar but it was a lot easier. Once you drop your skid plate you have all the room in the world.
Click to expand...

Dude, I was going to watch that and maybe figure it out. I have all the tools and pretty decent know how.

Did you also replace the outer tie rods?

Anything special I need in the way of tools? Thanks again man
 
Last edited:
Re

Jimmy, I am telling you it is so easy!

1) Lock your steering wheel! Then remove the castle nut on the outer tie rods and remove the outer tie rod from your lower ball joint. I bought the tool to remove the tie rod for $15 but you can rent it. Also, you don't have to jack your car up for this step but it makes it easier and you can turn your wheels to give you more room.

2) Remove the rear half of your skid plate. You do not need to remove the front half of your skid plate.

3) Your steering rack is held in by three bolts. This can all be done using ratcheting wrenches, no special tools.

4) Remove the steering fluid lines using a flare nut wrench. Mark the lines or take a picture so you know which one is top and bottom (return and supply)

5) There is a rod that goes from your steering wheel assembly to your steering rack. You will see the fitting that joins the rod to your steering rack and it has a rubber flange looking thing with two bolts (12mm). Take the 2 bolts off, leaving the top half of the fitting still attached to the rod.

6) Now your steering rack is free, wiggle it loose. I upgrade the bushings on the replacement steering rack, those energy suspension bushing packs.

7) Before installing the steering rack make sure the rack is centered. I did this by turning the flange all the way in one direction. Then turning the flange all the way in the other direction, counting each rotation. Then divide that number by 2 and turn the flange by the number you get. Centering the rack.

8) Line the rack up with the bolts removed in step 3. Hand tighten those bolts up.

9) Bolt up the flange that was taken apart in step 5.

10) Reconnect the steering fluid lines.

11) Tighten the 3 bolts holding the steering rack in place to torque spec.

12) Install the outer tie rod to the lower ball joint. Make sure you install the pin in the castle nuts. You are going to need to jack your car up for this part. The outer tie rod will most likely not be in the same location. Therefore the next step:

13) Get an alignment. I paid $300 at Firestone and get free life time alignments from now on.

It took me 2hrs but I could have definitely completed the job a lot faster after doing it for the first time. I was quoted $350 to do that job.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 386 (members: 5, guests: 381)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,080
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top