Power Steering Leak

gray_es300

New member
So i got this 4runner a few weeks ago with 45k miles, I've driven it sporadically and today i noticed a crunching noise while turning the wheel. Checked the PS reservoir and it was completely empty, filled it up and about 98% of the noise went away. I look for leaks and while i couldn't see where it was coming from off the car, the drip on the driveway was on the right side of the front of the front driver-side front tire. Does anyone know where this leak could be coming from? Either a line or the rack itself? Also, how much I'm going to expect to pay to get it changed. I'm surprised to have this issue with such low miles. I noticed that it was power steering fluid in the reservoir instead of ATF. Could this be the cause for the leak? Any help would be great. thanks.
 
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Bump, anyone? Also replacing the radiator as the strawberry milkshake thing has officially scared the shit out of me. Got one from Advance for $98 after online discount.
 
You should take a good look at the boots on the rack. See if fluid is coming from there. In my case when the rack died the fluid had filled the boot on the driver side and eventually the boot split and instead of a drip we had a puddle. ATF is what is specified by Toyota but I've read other guys on here say that they used other PS fluid types successfully so I'm not sure if that could be the issue.

Fixing this, if the rack is bad, is pricey. By most accounts a new rack is the way to go and those cost about $600 plus install. If you pay someone to do it you are looking at $1000-1200.

Hopefully that's not the case.
 
$1000-1200? I was looking online at Napa and they had the rack for $245 bucks. Tha would mean with a labor rate of $85 an hour, it would take about 10 hours to change the rack?
 
You could put in a $245 rack, but be prepared to do it again in the not too distant future. Then again, you might be the lucky one who's budget rebuilt rack outlasts all the others.
I had a P/S pressure hose spring a leak in my previous Toyota truck, so just because it has a leak doesn't mean it's the rack.
 
If I remember correctly, I was able to get a new steering rack from Advanced Auto for about $500 (I think that was after getting the $100 core charge back). It wasn't listed on their website I had to go to the store.

I did the install myself with help from a friend, who in a previous job was the owner/operator of his own auto shop (got out because of disagreement with family). So my labor cost was the price of a six-pack.

That being said, I would trace the leak to be sure I know what is failing before I started replacing parts (find what is wet and follow the trail back to the source)
 
You could put in a $245 rack, but be prepared to do it again in the not too distant future. Then again, you might be the lucky one who's budget rebuilt rack outlasts all the others.
I had a P/S pressure hose spring a leak in my previous Toyota truck, so just because it has a leak doesn't mean it's the rack.

This is a little pessimistic... There are a number of guys that have been running non-OEM racks for long time and are fine. If you search a bit, you will find a couple threads I posted that show what I think is pretty decent reason to believe that the reason some of our racks fail prematurely is because of aftermarket ITRE's that don't have the range of the OEM ITRE, so they bottom out and put some serious force on the rack (you can also link to that thread from my build thread).

My experience was that I developed a leak shortly after I replaced the ITRE's. It could be that my rack just wore out suddenly but of natural wear and began pouring ATF all of a sudden (unlikely, read that with sarcasm), or it could be that I put an aftermarket ITRE on because the OEM's are ridiculously expensive, it put a massive bending force on the rack when I flexed over a bump or something, and the bushings got damaged (much more likely). I am pretty confident of my ITRE theory because I KNOW that to do the damage to the ITRE I saw, the rack had to have seen significant force in a way it isn't supposed to, and in a way that would basically be the most likely to cause the bushing failure I experienced.
 
ITRE is original with 46k miles, but I'm sure age plays a part. It was never off-roaded or anything either, but I still have to make absolutely sure it's the rack so I'm dropping it off tonight. I am getting the NAPA rack, $288 for the rack itself and a $220 core charge. Since it is a winter car, I'm having a hard time justifying $700-800 for a factory rack, especially since I have another car. I am changing the radiator and power antenna today, dropping it off tonight, and we'll see what the damage (literally and monetarily) is tomorrow. I'm just pissed that it went with just 46k miles. I realize it's older, but this 4Runner is not as bulletproof as I had thought ha, and I know things go wrong, it happens but I've put close to $2000 into it as is between tires, calipers and rotors, muffler, fluids, and other things.Some of this is just basic upkeep, but it's all been in a very short period of time that I owned it. I still like it though ha.
 
That is the problem with having an older but lower mileage car. Plus your location in Western NY isn't helping it. Ask Nelsonmd to the extent what havoc good northern winters can wreck on a 3rd gen 4runner.

If you haven't replaced the timing belt and water pump, save some more pennies and do such soon.
 
I'll be honest I have no plans on doing the timing belt, it's a non interference engine and I'll put at most 3-5k a year on it. If my plans change for the car, maybe but we'll see.
 
ITRE is original with 46k miles, but I'm sure age plays a part. It was never off-roaded or anything either, but I still have to make absolutely sure it's the rack so I'm dropping it off tonight. I am getting the NAPA rack, $288 for the rack itself and a $220 core charge. Since it is a winter car, I'm having a hard time justifying $700-800 for a factory rack, especially since I have another car. I am changing the radiator and power antenna today, dropping it off tonight, and we'll see what the damage (literally and monetarily) is tomorrow. I'm just pissed that it went with just 46k miles. I realize it's older, but this 4Runner is not as bulletproof as I had thought ha, and I know things go wrong, it happens but I've put close to $2000 into it as is between tires, calipers and rotors, muffler, fluids, and other things.Some of this is just basic upkeep, but it's all been in a very short period of time that I owned it. I still like it though ha.

Read through my couple threads on the steering rack replacement, because there are 2 PN's at Napa, and you want to get the one for the 01/02 so that you get the updated design of steering rack guide. I specify the Napa PN's.

When you are in the rust belt, it's time, not miles that are the factor.

And just FYI, I didn't do any off-roading either, but I still managed to bottom out my ITRE's in about a year. I don't slow way down for speed bumps and things and things like that, but I also don't go crazy either. The point is, you may get some high flex momentarily under a number of conditions, and when combined with steering, I think it is more likely than you might think to bottom out the ITRE. If I see damage on my ITRE's that came with the new rack, then I may end up forking over the $120/ea for the OEM ITRE's.
 
I went with the rockauto new rack. Heres a link. Its the first one on the list.
2002 TOYOTA 4RUNNER Rack and Pinion Complete Unit

I think lots of people run that rack and are fine with it. Paid my mechanic 300 for install including new tie rods. In total $550 parts+labour and a new rack, not a reman.
UPDATE: it's not the rack, I was looking I was completely dry, but there was a line next to the oil filter that seems to be leaking down onto the cv joint. Sorry for the bad pic, but is does anyone know which line this would be? Sorry again for he bad pic and description, I'm in te school parking garage and people are looking at me like I'm crazy as they see me underneath the car ha
 

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Who cares what people think, if they can't figure out that you're working on your car or why, then their wasting their time with school...

Is that fluid red/purple, or is it straight brown/yellow? It looks to me like you might be leaking engine oil since your picture is looking straight up at the oil filter. Check your dipstick.
 
Its a combination of ATF and PS fluid, so its a redish brown. It is definitely power steering, oil level is perfect. In the picture, it is the first line from the left, farthest from the actual oil filter. I'm assuming its a high pressure power steering hose?
 
ATF and PS fluid should never be mixed. If you have mixed them, then you should flush the PS system and put in all fresh ATF.

If you can confirm the that hose is leaking and it isn't just that the engine oil is dripping down onto that hose, or if something else is just dripping down into that hose, then yes, you can replace the PS hose, but it is going to be a PTIA.

The hose fitting are very difficult to get off, especially when you have rust, you will definitely need fuel line wrenches. The hoses are stupid expensive, but you won't have a choice there, the high pressure line is about $150, and the return line is I think $30-40. Don't buy it from O'Reiley's, whatever brand they sell. I bought from them and it has already rusted severely before it has even seen a single winter.

You should reference the steering rack replacement threads to find out how to change the hoses. It's a secondary part of the install but you'll get an idea of what kind of PITA it is.

The wet line in your picture is the return line, so assuming that is what is leaking, you lucked out (be sure to confirm first though, while you may have lucked out the return line isn't THAT easy to replace). If you can get the fitting off the rack then that is pretty easy. If not, then you can pull the hose clamp near the rack and pull the hose off the fitting. It's not a high pressure fitting, so it's easy to replace. There are a couple mounts that are a pain to get to that you will have to take off.
 
Nelson, you've been a huge hell thanks. It was the line. Needless to say, I had to get the lines from the dealer and the end bill is $537. I was able to save money doing the radiator myself though.
 
Nelson, you've been a huge hell thanks. It was the line. Needless to say, I had to get the lines from the dealer and the end bill is $537. I was able to save money doing the radiator myself though.

I was in your boat. I luckily could wait a bit and a local member parting out a truck sent me a line for $75. Its crazy how much they charge for the high pressure line.
 
Nelson, you've been a huge hell thanks. It was the line. Needless to say, I had to get the lines from the dealer and the end bill is $537. I was able to save money doing the radiator myself though.

WOW! Was this installed? Looking at some oem prices online those lines list for $365 and can be be had for less than $275.
 
Ya it's installed, I mean j think it's definitely a fair price based on what I've been seeing on those estimate repair websites, it's just the line is a fortune, he'll it's more than some actuall steering racks. I don't have the know how or the tools to do it, so a few hundred in labor is fine with me.
 

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