Power Steering leaking from cap

[Quantumkiwi]

If this is easily searchable I apologize, I looked a bit and saw some mixed results.

I noticed a bit of new leakage from around the top of my steering fluid cap. I've also had some slop in my rack, but it was just the sort of rattling and play that you would expect from old tie rods. In addition, I've been getting some squealing when at full lock and occasionally when turning fast and stationary.
My steering doesn't feel stiff or difficult, so I don't feel like my fluid is low, but it does feel pretty loose and is moved easily by rocks, etc while offroading.

Is it possible that I might need to replace my rack? Or should I perhaps just flush fluids and replace my tie rods? I know that a new rack comes with ITREs so, I would prefer not to replace a rack if I had already replaced both ITREs and OTREs.

Picture of leakage:

 

[BN-2B]

No expert here but, fluid shouldn’t be high enough to come out the top.
However, there is a screen at the bottom of that reservoir can which does get clogged, enough to impede the flow.
A flush is good. Removing the reservoir for inspection/cleaning is better.
Consider new steering rack bushings before replacing the whole thing.

 

[Ricktuk]

first clean off really well. go to hardware store and get a thin rubber gasket that will fit cap, fill to proper level. and see what happens. you can check for leaks with clean white cloth. looks like it may be coming from around top piece of pump and not the cap. if so you may need to replace the pump.

As for the rack, get some purple power and soak it down. clean it off with a pressure washer, I did it at a car wash. then you can see where the leaks are coming from.

Leaks can be a bit of a pain to track down sometimes, but better than spending hundreds replacing what isnt bad

 

[Chubeto]

Hopefully you resolved your problems already. I also previously had the squealing at full lock. It went away once I installed the timing kit recommended on here sold on eBay.

 

[Wedgy]

If you've never done the fluid flush I would do that 1st as I've done 2 of them now and the screen at the bottom of the reservoir was so clogged I'm surprised the pump didn't burn up starving for fluid. Timmy's video is great but you don't need to start the engine, just turn the rack.
YouTube

 

[nissanh]

You got too much fluid there. Bring it to the proper level (based on hot and cold) and it won't leak. Lube shops just fill it all the way to the top.

 

[Kanoe]

If you've never done the fluid flush I would do that 1st as I've done 2 of them now and the screen at the bottom of the reservoir was so clogged I'm surprised the pump didn't burn up starving for fluid. Timmy's video is great but you don't need to start the engine, just turn the rack.
YouTube

Why not put a Magnefine filter in your return line? It'll catch all that stuff in the system and it's cheap and easy to do. A lot easier than cleaning the screen more than once. I ran one for 2 years then took it out to open and inspect, in retrospect it probably could have stayed in there for ever as it was not dirty.

 

[Quantumkiwi]

Hopefully you resolved your problems already. I also previously had the squealing at full lock. It went away once I installed the timing kit recommended on here sold on eBay.

I did the fluid flush and mesh screen clean, and it reduced the problem quite a bit. I think the other play in my rack is due to my bushings, which are on the list to do today. I had about 1 inch of movement when the rack was moved from side to side.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I did the fluid flush and mesh screen clean, and it reduced the problem quite a bit. I think the other play in my rack is due to my bushings, which are on the list to do today. I had about 1 inch of movement when the rack was moved from side to side.

Wow, kudos to responding! I was gonna mention something until I realized this was a thread revival.

P.S. unless you have air tools, you'll want the biggest breaker/cheater bar you can find. That one bolt facing the rear of the truck is an absolute pain and it's a big one. I also jacked up the truck as high as I could to get a little more space for leverage.

To add something constructive, I've always had a bit of a whine from the pump at full lock. I tried randomly a bottle of synthetic power steering wheel I got a O'Reillys (said it was for Asian vehicles) and the pump is nice and quiet now! I spilled a little bit of fluid though and it smelled NASTY for days. Kinda like used gear oil.

 

[Quantumkiwi]

Wow, kudos to responding! I was gonna mention something until I realized this was a thread revival.

P.S. unless you have air tools, you'll want the biggest breaker/cheater bar you can find. That one bolt facing the rear of the truck is an absolute pain and it's a big one. I also jacked up the truck as high as I could to get a little more space for leverage.

To add something constructive, I've always had a bit of a whine from the pump at full lock. I tried randomly a bottle of synthetic power steering wheel I got a O'Reillys (said it was for Asian vehicles) and the pump is nice and quiet now! I spilled a little bit of fluid though and it smelled NASTY for days. Kinda like used gear oil.

Isn't it supposed to be torqued to 190 or something? I've got a 1.5ft torque wrench that goes to 150ftlbs, and then I'll haul on it with my 2ft breaker bar.

Yea, when I did the fluid flush I used DEX/MERC ATF or whatever was the highest grade stuff that was recommended. The old fluid smelled uniquely bad though, I would best compare it to preserved animals in formaldehyde.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Isn't it supposed to be torqued to 190 or something? I've got a 1.5ft torque wrench that goes to 150ftlbs, and then I'll haul on it with my 2ft breaker bar.

Yea, when I did the fluid flush I used DEX/MERC ATF or whatever was the highest grade stuff that was recommended. The old fluid smelled uniquely bad though, I would best compare it to preserved animals in formaldehyde.

It's "supposed" to be 190, but after 20 years of being dragged through mud, salt, water & grime it can get really seized up. Heat can help but I struggled get it hot enough to make a difference.

 

[cbr900boy]

If this is easily searchable I apologize, I looked a bit and saw some mixed results.

I noticed a bit of new leakage from around the top of my steering fluid cap. I've also had some slop in my rack, but it was just the sort of rattling and play that you would expect from old tie rods. In addition, I've been getting some squealing when at full lock and occasionally when turning fast and stationary.
My steering doesn't feel stiff or difficult, so I don't feel like my fluid is low, but it does feel pretty loose and is moved easily by rocks, etc while offroading.

Is it possible that I might need to replace my rack? Or should I perhaps just flush fluids and replace my tie rods? I know that a new rack comes with ITREs so, I would prefer not to replace a rack if I had already replaced both ITREs and OTREs.

Picture of leakage:

I had this problem with both my 3rd gens. Just replace the whole cap and the problem is solved. Believe it or not the cap has a rubber seal that hardens over time which causes the seepage. Both are still bone dry.

 

[Quantumkiwi]

I had this problem with both my 3rd gens. Just replace the whole cap and the problem is solved. Believe it or not the cap has a rubber seal that hardens over time which causes the seepage. Both are still bone dry.

Hmm, I'll take a look at that today, probably see if I can replace it with a silicone gasket.