Pre-Assembled Suspension Kits?

[ctyoter]

I don't know if I'm stepping on a land mine here, but here goes... My 2008 Sport needs the stock suspension replaced finally and I have always been considering the front lift for aesthetic reasons and to be able to run slightly larger tires to fill up the body more and reap any ride benefits of the larger rubber.

Well, as it happens, tires are ready to be replaced too so this is my opportunity to get the 70's on there. I'm gaining some momentum in getting this stuff done, but my biggest restriction is time (as well as money to a degree). I was thinking about getting a pre-assembled kit such as this such as this and wanted to hear some opinions on if they're a waste or can save some time over piecing the kit together and assembling myself. I would prefer less lift to be honest, so it doesn't have to be this exact setup, but you get the gist.

I'll also be either rebuilding or replacing my CV joints and anything else up front that needs it so the suspension won't be the only thing I have to squeeze in before winter.

 

[gaber6]

Preassembled seems like it would be more difficult.
Toyota CVs are premium quality, so theoretically just reboot them and you'd be ok.

 

[grumpy02]

Personally I feel the extra cost of the pre-assembled coilovers is worth it. I hate using a spring compressor. (had one slip off once put the strut through the garage wall) As for which brand just shop around online. Also look for some low miles 3rd gen Tacoma take-offs. (tacomaworld.com) I picked up a set for $100. Direct fit & will give you ~ 1 1/2 - 2" of lift. Don't bother with the rears. You have to replace the bushings & they really aren't valved for the T4R.

 

[Runnin on E]

I wrote a CV axle rebuild thread over here:

CV Axle Disassembly | Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

DO NOT give away your original CV axles. They are the best quality out there. Read my thread for rebuild kit part numbers.

 

[ctyoter]

I wrote a CV axle rebuild thread over here:

CV Axle Disassembly | Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

DO NOT give away your original CV axles. They are the best quality out there. Read my thread for rebuild kit part numbers.

This was the exact reason rebuilding was even on my mind. Great post.

 

[ctyoter]

Preassembled seems like it would be more difficult.
Toyota CVs are premium quality, so theoretically just reboot them and you'd be ok.

Yep, the post a couple above this is the reason I'm thinking of rebuilding instead of replacing.

 

[ctyoter]

Personally I feel the extra cost of the pre-assembled coilovers is worth it. I hate using a spring compressor. (had one slip off once put the strut through the garage wall) As for which brand just shop around online. Also look for some low miles 3rd gen Tacoma take-offs. (tacomaworld.com) I picked up a set for $100. Direct fit & will give you ~ 1 1/2 - 2" of lift. Don't bother with the rears. You have to replace the bushings & they really aren't valved for the T4R.

The spring compressor is def. on my mind, but I'd do it if that was the best option. I figure if the life of the other parts is about done, I might as well get it all and get it all pre-assembled. That's my logic anyhow.

 

[Runnin on E]

The spring compressor is def. on my mind, but I'd do it if that was the best option. I figure if the life of the other parts is about done, I might as well get it all and get it all pre-assembled. That's my logic anyhow.

I have a lift in my shop and I HATE working on the front suspension. A tip is to jack it up take the wheel off, brake caliper and disk, then lower the A arm/vehicle down onto a tall wood block (I use a 14" 8X8). Do one side at a time, leave the wheel on the other side for stability when you lower it back down. This compresses the strut spring. Now you can remove the lower strut bolt and the two lower spindle bolts with no tension on them. Jack the vehicle back up and then you can remove the spindle and axle. After all that is out you can remove the strut as one unit and compress the spring on the bench if you want to do your own OR install your pre-assembled unit and Robert is your Fathers Brother. While you are in there check your ball joints and A-arm bushings or else you will have to do ALL that over again (unless you like that sort of thing).....just reverse the process going back in.....alright no charge for that one.....:rockon:

 

[ctyoter]

I have a lift in my shop and I HATE working on the front suspension. A tip is to jack it up take the wheel off, brake caliper and disk, then lower the A arm/vehicle down onto a tall wood block (I use a 14" 8X8). Do one side at a time, leave the wheel on the other side for stability when you lower it back down. This compresses the strut spring. Now you can remove the lower strut bolt and the two lower spindle bolts with no tension on them. Jack the vehicle back up and then you can remove the spindle and axle. After all that is out you can remove the strut as one unit and compress the spring on the bench if you want to do your own OR install your pre-assembled unit and Robert is your Fathers Brother. While you are in there check your ball joints and A-arm bushings or else you will have to do ALL that over again (unless you like that sort of thing).....just reverse the process going back in.....alright no charge for that one.....:rockon:

Man, I had to look up "Robert is your Fathers Brother", NGL.

 

[Runnin on E]

One other thing is at some point you want to loosen the outer axle nut. This thing is TIGHT like 250Ft lbs or something like that. The way I do it is jack up, take wheel off, take metal cover off, put wheel back on, lower down then un-torque axle nut, jack back up, take wheel off again. Now you are ready to remove the spindle and then the axle. Good times! Of course going back on is just as much fun. Assemble everything but leave the metal nut/bearing cover off, install wheel, lower back down, torque nut, jack back up, remove wheel, install locking devices and cotter pin, install metal cover, install wheel, hit the trail for some "hard line" wheelin' Good Times!

 

[Runnin on E]

I had to look up the toque because...

 

[ctyoter]

One other thing is at some point you want to loosen the outer axle nut. This thing is TIGHT like 250Ft lbs or something like that. The way I do it is jack up, take wheel off, take metal cover off, put wheel back on, lower down then un-torque axle nut, jack back up, take wheel off again. Now you are ready to remove the spindle and then the axle. Good times! Of course going back on is just as much fun. Assemble everything but leave the metal nut/bearing cover off, install wheel, lower back down, torque nut, jack back up, remove wheel, install locking devices and cotter pin, install metal cover, install wheel, hit the trail for some "hard line" wheelin' Good Times!

I am gathering parts to do the rebuild -- your thread has been helpful!

Question: Other than boot kits and bearings, anything else I should replace while it's all taken apart? I think there are two oil seals per side that I'll want to replace. 144k, FWIW. Thanks again.

 

[Runnin on E]

Yes front diff output seals would be a good item to change just because. There are outer dust seals at the axle end that meets the spindle bearing (wheel bearing) I ripped one of these and had to wait for another to be delivered the next day so....Also be carefull once you have your new axle installed and before you re-attach the spindle. Set the new axle on some rags or similar while it rests on the lower control arm. You could actually cut the new outer boot if you are not careful.