Prep for Maintenance Day

Kanger328

New member
I'm planning to do some much needed maintenance next weekend and am preparing by gathering all parts throughout the week. I just wanted some input on the parts I'll be using and if any of you see and red flags with my plans. Sorry for long post!

I just had my stock rotors resurfaced and pads replaced as well as my starter replaced (got hosed at a total of $385 w/ labor). I know, I should have done the brake upgrade (which I plan to do in the future) and the starter contacts replaced first. I'm just pressed for time and needed a quick fix to make my 4R driveable for the time being.

Here are my plans for next weekend:

1) Replace u-joints on rear driveshaft. I have lots of vibration at speed. Question: should I just replace all 3 u-joints? I don't feel any play in the rear diff end, but I do feel some play at the trans end. Figured I'd replace them all while I have the driveshaft out. I'll be doing this at home with no press and no vice (I'm sure it'll be a PITA). I'll be hammering out/in the u-joints with a socket and mallet.

Here's the part I'm planning to buy: Matsuba Stock Replacement Toyota/Lexus Universal Joint (U-Joint)

And grease: Mystik JT-6 Hi-Temp Grease - 14 Oz Tube - Lithium Complex NLGI No. 2 : Amazon.com : Automotive

2) Add B&M Trans Cooler. Already bought the 70268. Plan is to do a drain and fill while I'm at it. My trans fluid right now is clear red, but a little burnt (blackish hue). I'm planning to use Amsoil ATF. I just don't like the fact that I'll be mixing this expensive stuff with the old ATF. This just sounds like an easy and safe method based on what I've researched on here and other forums.

The ATF I'm getting: AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid

3) Replace Front/Rear Diff and T-Case Oil.

For front diff and t-case: AMSOIL Severe Gear® 75W-90

For rear diff: AMSOIL Synthetic 80W-90 Gear Lube

These are what I'm hoping to do next weekend. Total for parts alone come out to about $450 (eek!). Soon after I plan to replace the LBJ's as well as a small lift (Tundra/OME?). Once the brakes go again, I'll do the brake upgrade. Any comments/concerns/flags for my big weekend? Thanks in advance!
 
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Since you are putting a cooler on I would go ahead and flush it all using the cooler hose method.
 
The front two u-joints are a ***** to replace. There is a spring in there that keeps tension on them. Just replace the rear one for now. 99% of the time that one is the issue.
 
The front two u-joints are a ***** to replace. There is a spring in there that keeps tension on them. Just replace the rear one for now. 99% of the time that one is the issue.

Good call! I'll do just the rear for now. Thanks for the input!

Since you are putting a cooler on I would go ahead and flush it all using the cooler hose method.

I was debating whether or not I should drain and fill multiple times, or use the cooler hose method to do an entire \\"flush\\". I read alot about this and some have said that changing dirty/burnt fluid directly with fresh can cause some issues? Sounds like BS...but I dunno. I suppose I will do a complete swap. Thanks!
 

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