Prepping for Towing

[tcbaklash]

I'm moving halfway across the country (California --> Colorado, but I'm not one of those Californians) and I am going to be towing a small 1000lb Uhaul trailer holding my possessions. I've never towed before so this 1000+ mile journey will be my first time, and in a gutless and old 4Runner to boot. I'm looking for any advice for towing with this particular vehicle, any problems areas, any parts I need to replace before doing it, and a bolt-on hitch receiver that you'd recommend (I do not have a factory one).

Specs:
240k+ miles
3.4L, 4x4, Automatic
3" coilover lift, 285/75/16 BFG All-Terrain

Recently added/replaced/serviced:
130k mile transmission
external tranny cooler
CV axles
LBJs
inner/outer tie rods
timing belt
radiator
water pump
all drive belts
front brakes
suspension
tires

The only problem is that I have a rear axle seal leak that has got some oil inside one of my rear brake drums.

 

[T4Rchadly]

im curious to see what everyone has to say because im actually moving from alaska to colorado also pulling a trailer. im a manual though not auto. fix that axle seal before it does serious damage! ive seen quite a bit of horror stories. to the diff breather mod if you havent done that yet!

 

[3bears]

agree with fix axel seal
check everything, look for leaks, slop in suspension, anything in question do now not on the road.
I did my axels, knock sensors ( threw a code of course a week b4 trip) and went through everything and changed every fluid last march b4 the trip from Oregon to my new home here in alaska
also I guess im just a old fart that does not need big power anymore.
a few weeks ago I had to tow a 22 foot SJX boat from Fairbanks to the chitna and back ( the above alaska guy knows the trip, 7 hours each way, and yes nearly limited out on salmon,58 in one day, 65 is max for the household permit). yes gutless and poor mpg.(13)..but now not a big concern to me and I was actually happy how the old girl did,
would I do it again, not really, but the trip was planned and the other rig ( diesel pick up) had to pull a horse trailer those days....but if I had to I would
esp for dem fishies
my son leaves Friday night for the kenai with his taco and the boat...because the darn big rig is pulling horses again
think I need to invest in another big rig

 

[RS Dude]

I too am planning my escape from Kommiefornia soon! Hee, hee, hee!:trophy:

 

[jgue467]

Yeah fix things you Know are busted first.

Learn how to use OD override.

Elevation and grade maps help.

The only really tough climb is I70 west of Denver, a real tough incline with elevation that kills about 40+ % of HP due to lack of O2, nothing but a supercharger or turbo can help in thin air. Most need to downshift to 2nd gear and 4K rpms to achieve a mere 50 mph up that mother of a mountain side. The engine will Roar! Ask me how I know....

Give her an oil change after all that hard work.

Luck and enjoy the Runner! :cowboy:

 

[Boort]

I'm looking for any advice for towing with this particular vehicle, any problems areas, any parts I need to replace before doing it, and a bolt-on hitch receiver that you'd recommend

As others have said, Fix the axle seal first.

On my 97 Tacoma I have the U-Haul Round tube hitch. It bolts up to the frame where the rear bumper mounts. 45 minute 2 person job to install. Cost me about $135 20 years ago, probably $180 these days.

For wiring:
Will the trailer have brakes?
If YES get a brake controller and wire it in. Here is the kit I used to wire up the Tacoma (and a 90's Ford van):

• Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 4 Axles - Proportional Tekonsha Brake Controller 90885
• Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller - 7-Way RV and 4-Way Flat - 10 Gauge Wires etrailer Accessories and Parts ETBC7
• Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Hopkins Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring HM43315

This takes one person about 3-4 hours to install. Having a helper to run the 10-gauge duplex wire from front to rear makes things go faster. If I were to do it again I'd add on a dash switch and relay to be able to turn off the brake power line near the car's battery just after the fuse. this is how my 4th Gen Sport and the folks Sequoia came prewired.

If NO trailer brakes - just go with a 4-pole and stay out of the mountains:

• Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Hopkins Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring HM43315

This takes one person about 30 mins to install.

The technical help from etrailer was fast and spot on. they also sell a few bolt on Receiver hitches so you could get everything in one place. Also they have a price match policy so if you can find a lower price they beat it.

Give a call to the folks at scanguage and find out if the ScanguageII can read Transmission Fluid Temps for your 4Runner. It can on the 4th gen, not sure about the 3rd and my taco is manual. If that info is not available on the CanBus then I's suggest getting an aftermarket guage that mounts on the A-Pillar. Find out what fluid you are running and keep the temp below the breakdown temps. Also be aware that Stopping once it gets too hot is not good as you cut off the cooling air and the fluid in the tranny soaks up all of the heat w/o circulating and gets even hotter. (this is how we hosed the trans on the aforementioned Ford Van!)

Timmy the Toolman (@mtbtim) has a video on the topic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fT_2szdKXRM

Boort

PS: [MENTION=75316]jgue467[/MENTION] is right about the hill between Silverthorne and the Tunnel on I-70. Don't mess around downshift and move to the right if you take 70.
I'd say that is not the only spot where she will be huffin and puffin if you take 70. The Hill and Heat climbing Capitol Reef in Utah is another similar slog.

If you are in SoCal and headed for the Denver area, I'd suggest staying south. Take 40 to Albuquerque NM then head north. you can get an elevation profile from Google Maps (in a browser) by getting directions then switching to bicycle mode. you want the route with the least spikes and drops.

 

[tcbaklash]

Yeah fix things you Know are busted first.

Learn how to use OD override.

Elevation and grade maps help.

The only really tough climb is I70 west of Denver, a real tough incline with elevation that kills about 40+ % of HP due to lack of O2, nothing but a supercharger or turbo can help in thin air. Most need to downshift to 2nd gear and 4K rpms to achieve a mere 50 mph up that mother of a mountain side. The engine will Roar! Ask me how I know....

Yeah that’s the only bit I’m worried about. I’m looping around south through Las Vegas to avoid the Sierras so that’s no biggie. Just a few hills until I hit the Rockies.

Just drove my Fiesta ST through Truckee, CA on I-80 and I was doing 80mph uphill with cruise control in 6th gear. My 4Runner will do maybe 55 up that climb lol

 

[rideexileex]

• Bump up the tire air pressure some for all the highway miles

• Make sure you load the trailer properly so that the weight is over the axle and not overloading the trailer tongue

• Maybe cheap (firestone) airbags if you're loading the 4Runner itself

• Start working the e-brake a bunch to get the rear brakes into adjustment

• Buy a pack of harmonicas and learn to play during the drive

 

[phattyduck]

If you truly are only pulling 1000lbs, just hook it up and go. Make sure it is loaded reasonably - at 1000lbs, you just be able to still pick up the weight of the tongue, but not easily (100-200lbs).

Your 4Runner will be fine, just do it (once you get that axle seal replaced). Keep the speed at 60-ish, enjoy the right lane. On the flats you can use 4th gear, but always turn of OD up hills (and down, if you want/need engine braking).

A used OEM hitch should be easy to acquire and rust free since you are in CA. If you were in SoCal, I'd have one to sell you cheap... Get a plug-n-play trailer wiring setup from etrailer.com (less than $50) - the OEM harnesses are not reliable anymore (I've gone through two stock ones).

(~3200lbs, surge brakes)

(~2000lbs, no brakes - not suggested!)

(~4000lbs, no brakes - really not recommended!)

-Charlie

 

[Twisted Sid]

My 99 will read out the trans temp so yours should too but, I would recommend getting one of the cheap ODB scanners on Amazon or Ebay for less than $20 and downloading torque pro for $5 and setting it up on your phone. It's well worth the money and customizable to how you want it.

 

[3bears]

My 99 will read out the trans temp so yours should too but, I would recommend getting one of the cheap ODB scanners on Amazon or Ebay for less than $20 and downloading torque pro for $5 and setting it up on your phone. It's well worth the money and customizable to how you want it.

so true...torque pro is worth every penny

 

[3bears]

If you truly are only pulling 1000lbs, just hook it up and go. Make sure it is loaded reasonably - at 1000lbs, you just be able to still pick up the weight of the tongue, but not easily (100-200lbs).

Your 4Runner will be fine, just do it (once you get that axle seal replaced). Keep the speed at 60-ish, enjoy the right lane. On the flats you can use 4th gear, but always turn of OD up hills (and down, if you want/need engine braking).

A used OEM hitch should be easy to acquire and rust free since you are in CA. If you were in SoCal, I'd have one to sell you cheap... Get a plug-n-play trailer wiring setup from etrailer.com (less than $50) - the OEM harnesses are not reliable anymore (I've gone through two stock ones).

(~3200lbs, surge brakes)

(~2000lbs, no brakes - not suggested!)

(~4000lbs, no brakes - really not recommended!)

-Charlie

these babies can do it,,,,been there,,,done that
just don't expect to go up a steep hill at 70mph

 

[3bears]

If you truly are only pulling 1000lbs, just hook it up and go. Make sure it is loaded reasonably - at 1000lbs, you just be able to still pick up the weight of the tongue, but not easily (100-200lbs).

Your 4Runner will be fine, just do it (once you get that axle seal replaced). Keep the speed at 60-ish, enjoy the right lane. On the flats you can use 4th gear, but always turn of OD up hills (and down, if you want/need engine braking).

A used OEM hitch should be easy to acquire and rust free since you are in CA. If you were in SoCal, I'd have one to sell you cheap... Get a plug-n-play trailer wiring setup from etrailer.com (less than $50) - the OEM harnesses are not reliable anymore (I've gone through two stock ones).

(~3200lbs, surge brakes)

(~2000lbs, no brakes - not suggested!)

(~4000lbs, no brakes - really not recommended!)

-Charlie

hey phatty duck...those are Oregon plates for a guy in cali...whats up

 

[Reinout]

My input is a stray from what everyone else says. I moved from NH to Seattle (not in a 4runner) and I opted to have a moving company ship my stuff. Yes, it cost a pretty penny, but: If anything happens to the stuff the moving company is responsible, no wear on the car/truck, I was able to enjoy the drive without a trailer. Driving without a trailer is still safer than driving with a trailer, let the pros do that.

Also, you won't have to install anything like brake controllers, air bags, hitch, etc.

Hope that is helpful.

 

[phattyduck]

hey phatty duck...those are Oregon plates for a guy in cali...whats up

Just a borrowed trailer, that's all. My cars (and utility trailer) are all CA registered.

-Charlie

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=220053]tcbaklash[/MENTION], I'd grease the driveshaft at rear diff, second thoughts all zerks. With tongue weight of trailer/load rear suspension is going to be cycling more slip yoke moves more. Then pulling the load puts more stress on U-joints.