Problem with starting warm 1999

[runrunner]

Problem with starting warm 1999 - Update, problem still exists

I just bought a 1999 V6 runner with 163k. When I was test driving it at the dealer it started immediately when it was cold, but after shutting it off and letting it sit for 20 min or so it stalled a few times before it would start. The fuel light was on and it was parked on an angle so I thought that it had something to do with being low on fuel.

Its been 4 days and it did it again today. Started it cold at home and drove about 10 min before shutting off. Restarted about 5 min later and it took me 3 tries to get it to idle and then it was fine.

Other than that it runs great and idles fine. Cold starts are not an issue, just the warm ones. It feels like its starving for fuel. I picked up new plugs as they need to be replaced anyway and a few filter. I did a little research and it looks like the idle air control valve may need a cleaning.

Any other thoughts? There is no warranty from the dealer, however they do offer a 5 day return policy and I have one day left. I dont want to return because other than that I really like the truck. plus I already paid $200 to have tires swapped over.

 

[runrunner]

Problem with starting warm 1999 V6

I just bought a 1999 V6 runner with 163k. When I was test driving it at the dealer it started immediately when it was cold, but after shutting it off and letting it sit for 20 min or so it stalled a few times before it would start. The fuel light was on and it was parked on an angle so I thought that it had something to do with being low on fuel.

Its been 4 days and it did it again today. Started it cold at home and drove about 10 min before shutting off. Restarted about 5 min later and it took me 3 tries to get it to idle and then it was fine.

Other than that it runs great and idles fine. Cold starts are not an issue, just the warm ones. It feels like its starving for fuel. I picked up new plugs as they need to be replaced anyway and a fuel filter. I did a little research and it looks like the idle air control valve may need a cleaning.

Any other thoughts? There is no warranty from the dealer, however they do offer a 5 day return policy and I have one day left. I dont want to return because other than that I really like the truck. plus I already paid $200 to have tires swapped over.

 

[brian2sun]

Start with the cleaning the IAC and throttle body.

 

[runrunner]

Well, I picked up some seafoam and was going to clean everything out but I got a call back from the delear. They said to bring it in and they would take care of the issue.

On another note, I did replace the PCV valve today without choice. I was looking under the hood and noticed a bunch of whirlybirds on the intake manifold on the pass side. Was trying to vacume them out and tried to disconnect the PCV hose to get a better angle. Well, I gave it a few tugs and the little bas**** broke off. Tried to pull it out with plyers and it started to just break apart. I got nervous and took my time removing the intake to get a better angle and finally got it out.

Good times!

 

[runrunner]

Well, imagine this... The delear said they could not duplicate the problem.

Yesterday I went ahead and removed the throttle body and ICV valve. Throttle body was pretty nasty as well as the port for the ICV valve. Aside from the coolant passages, all surfaces were coated with carbon.

I am a little concerned as I disassembled the little green magnet box deal on the ICV valve when I was cleaning it out. I cleaned off all the old sealant material and re-sealed with sensor safe high temp RTV. I am hoping I didnt screw anything up.

Anyway, both gaskets were a little distorted so I had to order new ones and should be in today. I hate waiting for parts when you want to get things back together to make sure things run right.

I hope this fixes my problem. I hope this fixes my issue, I had a Cherokee with a starting problem. It was hard to start when cold so I replaced the fuel pump, R&R'd T-body to clean it, seafoamed, complete tune, etc and never fixed the issue. Finally sold it.

 

[runrunner]

Update -

Got everything back together and was a little worried at first. Started the truck and it fired immediately, but would idle at 1500 rpms in park and 1100 in drive. So I drove it around a bit and the idle slowly dropped back down to a little higher than what it used to be.

I assume this is somewhat normal since everything was disconnected including the battery? Does the computer have to relearn itself?

Anyway, shut it off and restarted it about 20 min later and guess what, problem is still there. It will start, but its almost as if its not getting enough fuel or something. Kinda sputters to life. Once its started its fine.

Any other ideas?

Maybe I will just live with the issue.

 

[nor cal boy]

i seem to gt this problem rarly so im ignoring it. i may try cleaning the throtle body and run some seafoam

as for the idle, your tuck will idle higher when the engine is cold

 

[runrunner]

as for the idle, your tuck will idle higher when the engine is cold

Yea, but it was higher and longer than normal. It was 60 degrees yesterday and the truck idled for a while.

I will give it some time and see how it does.

 

[Justin727]

You probably need a fuel filter sir.. That sitting on the incline possibly shifted any loose junk in the tank close to the pick up and shot it thru the lines

 

[runrunner]

I almost replaced the fuel filter, actually bought a Wix from Baxter. Anyway, the dealer recommended against it saying that unless it was absolutely necessary its not worth replacing do the the possibility of leaks.

 

[brian2sun]

I almost replaced the fuel filter, actually bought a Wix from Baxter. Anyway, the dealer recommended against it saying that unless it was absolutely necessary its not worth replacing do the the possibility of leaks.

That's a new one. The change interval for the fuel filter was left out of the owner's manual so there's a joke that it's a lifetime filter, but I changed mine before. It took me like 20-30 min IIRC and no leaks.

 

[runrunner]

^^ Yea, I was wondering.

Did you install a factory filter or aftermarket?

Any pointers? Looks like there is a plastic type skidplate that needs to be removed to expose the filter.

 

[quicksilvr]

^^ Yea, I was wondering.

Did you install a factory filter or aftermarket?

Any pointers? Looks like there is a plastic type skidplate that needs to be removed to expose the filter.

Nope, there shouldn't be anything in the way. It's just right under the drivers side floorpan.

I bought a factory filter from shoptrd.com. I spent $30 on it, and wish I would have just gotten an aftermarket one for half that much. Like Brian said, it's a very simple job. Easier than changing oil, unless you've got rust. Then it might be a pain.


Here's a nifty little writeup. http://www.4runners.org/writeups/fuelfilter/index.html

 

[runrunner]

I've heard that the aftermarket ones may have a different thread pitch causing possible leak issues.

Oh, well. I was on Amazon ordering some B-day presents for the wife and they had a Mann filter for $12 with free super saver shipping. I know when I had my BMW Mann was a big name and made quality products so I assume it should be okay for the 4runner. Hey, if it doesnt fit its $12.

 

[Justin727]

Samething in the Supra world. Lifetime fuel filter my A$$ they do get clogged and do need changing!

Let us know the results!

 

[Ron Helmuth]

could be several things

Fuel filter is not a bad idea-personally I would stick to OEM- but yes you may simply have some bad gas and it has clogged a bit.

I ran into same resistance when I asked for it to be changed when I bought my 99 used. "Don't need to" was the general attitude...a little prevention however goes a long way in my mind.

The TPS throttle position sensor also springs to mind. I do believe it can be checked for resistance or continuity or some such measure so don't just buy a new one without verifying it actually has an issue.

Do let us know. This is how we all learn.

 

[runrunner]

I thought about going the OEM route, but when I ran across the MANN one online for $12 it was hard to beat. OEM ones are $37 which wont break the bank, but if the MANN one will work that $25 can go in my gas tank.

A previous poster on this thread went with OEM and he said that if he did it all over again he would have gone with aftermarket.

I may be eating my words when its time to install, hope not...

As far as the warm start issue, it was okay today. Once it sat for 45 min, the other about 5. I talked to my neighbor who is a mechanic and he asked the 20 year Toyota tech he works with and he thought head gasket. I was like WHAT!

I sure hope not. Other than that it runs great and the temp gauge reads at the same spot.

 

[Ron Helmuth]

hg? I don't see any correlation on that.... but I am no mechanic and not pretending to be.

Let us know how the Mann one works out- us frugal and thrifty guys always need to find ways to save some dough.

 

[runrunner]

The fuel filter arrived today. Funny, Mann specializes in German filters but it said "made in china" on the side.

Installation didnt take too much time. I had a leak on the outlet side at first. Wasnt spraying, just dripping. Snugged the fitting down a little more and seemed to stop. Think I am good to go on this? I drove it around and it doesnt appear to be leaking still.