Problems After Front Suspension Work - Need Some HELP!

danthemanx07

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Problems After Front Suspension Work - UPDATE - Still Having Trouble

I need some help from folks that have had alignment issues after lifting and/or front suspension work.

I am running a Tundra/Landcruiser spring and shock combination lift currently. It has been on for a few a few months now without any problem except that the boots on the CV joints tore open. So, I geared up to replace the CV joints. As the 4runner has 180,000 miles on it now, I replaced the upper and lower ball joint and the inner and outer tie rod ends as well.

While I was at it, I replaced the lower control arms because the cam bolt bushings were toasted. I also installed a Revtek front diff-drop that I have had sitting around.

I used Toyota parts for everything except the inner-tie rods ends (NAPA), CV joints (NAPA), and the lower control arms (bought them from a member on here, they were new aftermarket and looked identical to the oem ones).

After completeing this work, I immediately had an alignment done.

That was last Sunday, and for this entire past week, I have had tire squeal when making turns and braking on slicker pavement surfaces. I was puzzled by this strange sound until I actually got the 4runner on a level surface and took a look at the front end. The front tires had an amazing amount of positive camber. It was plainly visible to the naked eye - no special equipment needed and caused onyl the outer portion of the tire tread to make contact with the ground. I will get a picture of this tonight.

Well - I took it back to an alignment shop this morning (a different one). They just called and said everything was within specification on their machine and that the lift was causing the positive camber (obviously), and I likely needed a special specification to get the camber right with the lift.

So - the obvious questions are what did I do wrong, and what should I do now? I am pretty frustrated with this, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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I need some help from folks that have had alignment issues after lifting and/or front suspension work.

I am running a Tundra/Landcruiser spring and shock combination lift currently. It has been on for a few a few months now without any problem except that the boots on the CV joints tore open. So, I geared up to replace the CV joints. As the 4runner has 180,000 miles on it now, I replaced the upper and lower ball joint and the inner and outer tie rod ends as well.

While I was at it, I replaced the lower control arms because the cam bolt bushings were toasted. I also installed a Revtek front diff-drop that I have had sitting around.

I used Toyota parts for everything except the inner-tie rods ends (NAPA), CV joints (NAPA), and the lower control arms (bought them from a member on here, they were new aftermarket and looked identical to the oem ones).

After completeing this work, I immediately had an alignment done.

That was last Sunday, and for this entire past week, I have had tire squeal when making turns and braking on slicker pavement surfaces. I was puzzled by this strange sound until I actually got the 4runner on a level surface and took a look at the front end. The front tires had an amazing amount of positive camber. It was plainly visible to the naked eye - no special equipment needed and caused onyl the outer portion of the tire tread to make contact with the ground. I will get a picture of this tonight.

Well - I took it back to an alignment shop this morning (a different one). They just called and said everything was within specification on their machine and that the lift was causing the positive camber (obviously), and I likely needed a special specification to get the camber right with the lift.

So - the obvious questions are what did I do wrong, and what should I do now? I am pretty frustrated with this, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
They should at least be able to get it drivable with your current setup. I'm assuming you have TRD springs and no top plate spacer. I had the 3/4 top plate spacer in addition to the TRD springs and I was able to get the camber close to within spec. Try a different alignment shop would be my recommendation.
 
They probably have the lower control arms maxed out for caster/camber... You'd be better off getting the Light Racing upper control arms for more adjustability
 
They should at least be able to get it drivable with your current setup. I'm assuming you have TRD springs and no top plate spacer. I had the 3/4 top plate spacer in addition to the TRD springs and I was able to get the camber close to within spec. Try a different alignment shop would be my recommendation.

yes -TRD springs with no top plate spacer.

They probably have the lower control arms maxed out for caster/camber... You'd be better off getting the Light Racing upper control arms for more adjustability

That may be true, and I am sure that the upper control arms would help. There are plenty of folks running this setup without problems and without the LR control arms though.
 
Try a Firestone, they usually have a half-decent alignment tech. If not, find a local 4x4 shop and ask them who they recommend for an alignment. I got mine done at Firestone with the Lifetime alignment.
 
Try a Firestone, they usually have a half-decent alignment tech. If not, find a local 4x4 shop and ask them who they recommend for an alignment. I got mine done at Firestone with the Lifetime alignment.

Haha. I like where your head is at. I have the Firestone lifetime alignment plan. On my second Firestone store. Will give the local shop a call if it is still acting up this evening.
 
I had some alignment issues with the stock UCAs. My tech used the following to get me set - 15k miles and no issues. Handles great with 285 Duratracs

Camber to 0
Toe to .04 degrees
 
Well - I am still having trouble with this setup. Symptoms = squealing tires when braking and generally poor steering control/wander.

Things are a little better than when I initially reported, but I am beginning to think something else is at play here.

Anyone have any thoughts on what else could be causing my problems?

Did I screw up my ball joint install? Aftermarket LCA's tweaked? Steering rack finally toasted (there was steering gear oil inside the boots on both sides when removed to replace TREs)?

My tires are far from the best. Uneven wear, etc. Could they be causing all this irritation?

I am puzzled because I had NONE of this trouble after I lifted. All of it showed up after all of the recent front end work, so I am wondering if something there is messed up.

I am really open to all suggestions at this point. I am getting to the point where I am going to need new tires. I sure do not want to replace them only to have them trashed by something screwed up in my front end.
 
Well - I am still having trouble with this setup. Symptoms = squealing tires when braking and generally poor steering control/wander.

Things are a little better than when I initially reported, but I am beginning to think something else is at play here.

Anyone have any thoughts on what else could be causing my problems?

Did I screw up my ball joint install? Aftermarket LCA's tweaked? Steering rack finally toasted (there was steering gear oil inside the boots on both sides when removed to replace TREs)?

My tires are far from the best. Uneven wear, etc. Could they be causing all this irritation?

I am puzzled because I had NONE of this trouble after I lifted. All of it showed up after all of the recent front end work, so I am wondering if something there is messed up.

I am really open to all suggestions at this point. I am getting to the point where I am going to need new tires. I sure do not want to replace them only to have them trashed by something screwed up in my front end.

Did you ever contact any 4wd shops to see who they recommended?
 
There are no different alignment specs for a lifted vs non-lifted truck. It just has to be aligned to the factory specs for camber, caster, toe etc.

How much lift did you actually get in the front?
 
There are no different alignment specs for a lifted vs non-lifted truck. It just has to be aligned to the factory specs for camber, caster, toe etc.

How much lift did you actually get in the front?

I don't have any information with me at work, but no more than 3 inches IIRC. I was aware that the alignent specs are the same. I communicated as much to the alignment guy at Firestone.

None of these problems surfaced until after the replacement of the ball joints, TREs, and LCAs. The truck was lifted without a problem back in January.

Anyone have a poor alignment cause the tire squeal I am getting?

My only other thought is out-of-balance tires.
 
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Tire squeal is a little odd while braking...

Squealing during tight turns on a smooth surface can be somewhat normal. My local tire place keeps their lot in very good shape and its very smooth. Just about every vehicle they pull out of the bays squeals on the asphalt.

The only alignment spec they will not be able to bring back without aftermarket upper control arms is caster. There should be no reason the camber and toe can not be brought back in manufacturer specifications.

If you park on a level surface, you can check the camber yourself using a level on the wheel. It wont get you right on, but you should be able to determine if you are close.
 
I just replaced some brand new Dorman LCA's from RockAuto with Toyota LCA's after finding the shitty Dorman bushings were deflecting so much it was causing the LCA to deflect, thus changing the alignment and it would require corrective steering while under braking. After putting a new set of calipers on, then UBJs, etc. trying to chase the problem down, I then put in Toyota LCA's and everything is good to go now.

I'd pull one of the LCA's out and if you can move the inner sleeve of the bushing with just your hand, that may be your problem. My new Toyota bushings were rock hard and I couldn't move them at all by hand.
 
Tire squeal is a little odd while braking...

Squealing during tight turns on a smooth surface can be somewhat normal. My local tire place keeps their lot in very good shape and its very smooth. Just about every vehicle they pull out of the bays squeals on the asphalt.

The only alignment spec they will not be able to bring back without aftermarket upper control arms is caster. There should be no reason the camber and toe can not be brought back in manufacturer specifications.

If you park on a level surface, you can check the camber yourself using a level on the wheel. It wont get you right on, but you should be able to determine if you are close.

If I could get out of work before dark I would snap a picture with a right angle for y'all to take a look at. This weekend may be the trick...

I just replaced some brand new Dorman LCA's from RockAuto with Toyota LCA's after finding the shitty Dorman bushings were deflecting so much it was causing the LCA to deflect, thus changing the alignment and it would require corrective steering while under braking. After putting a new set of calipers on, then UBJs, etc. trying to chase the problem down, I then put in Toyota LCA's and everything is good to go now.

I'd pull one of the LCA's out and if you can move the inner sleeve of the bushing with just your hand, that may be your problem. My new Toyota bushings were rock hard and I couldn't move them at all by hand.

SON-OF-A-B**** you just may be right. I have the same problem with steering under braking. I did not inspect the bushings that carefully, but I remember the bushings being looser than the ones I pulled out. I didn't think much of it at the time because the one that came out were f-ing terrible.

My plan was to replace the bushings in the old arms. Would have done so if I did not have to cut one of them off...

I am going to scout some pull-it yards for LCAs while checking into the alignment again...
 
I just replaced some brand new Dorman LCA's from RockAuto with Toyota LCA's after finding the shitty Dorman bushings were deflecting so much it was causing the LCA to deflect, thus changing the alignment and it would require corrective steering while under braking. After putting a new set of calipers on, then UBJs, etc. trying to chase the problem down, I then put in Toyota LCA's and everything is good to go now.

I'd pull one of the LCA's out and if you can move the inner sleeve of the bushing with just your hand, that may be your problem. My new Toyota bushings were rock hard and I couldn't move them at all by hand.


Are you saying you just replaced the bushing with Toyota ones in your Dorman LCAs? Or you bought brand new Toyota LCAs?

I have the Dorman LCA's but I haven't installed them yet. Are you saying I should replace the bushing? Or just get new OEM LCA's?

Thanks.
 
Are you saying you just replaced the bushing with Toyota ones in your Dorman LCAs? Or you bought brand new Toyota LCAs?

I have the Dorman LCA's but I haven't installed them yet. Are you saying I should replace the bushing? Or just get new OEM LCA's?

Thanks.

I dropped $400 and got a new pair of Toyota LCAs (I still wasn't 100% sure what the problem was so I wanted to eliminate any possibilities of shitty parts).

I would stick with all Toyota parts at this point if I was you; I have zero confidence in the Dorman parts after my experience.
 
I'm thinking this may be my problem too... I have the unusual camber depending on the surface I park on... Didn't notice it until I replace my LCAs with junk ass Duracrap I think I'm gonna jump on those poly bushings and not look back
 
I'm thinking this may be my problem too... I have the unusual camber depending on the surface I park on... Didn't notice it until I replace my LCAs with junk ass Duracrap I think I'm gonna jump on those poly bushings and not look back

If you do that, can you post where you get them from and a part #?

I thought I found a part number for the Toyota bushings a while back, but I can't put a finger on it now though. I'll post up if I do.
 

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