Problems after TBU

[MStudt]

I've searched some, but didn't come up with much useful information. After installing new brake lines, calipers, pads, and rotors I have a soft pedal. I notice when bleeding down the passenger side that the ABS pump would kick on after ever 2 pumps. I did't notice this happen while doing the driver side, and haven't heard it come on since. The pedal is very soft, and bottoms out on every push.

I did around 30 pumps per side, but now I'm wondering if that was enough. I never bled the system dry, and it never even reached the low mark on the reservoir. This is on an 01, and not sure what I'm missing.

Any ideas?

 

[adkins]

It takes a while to properly bleed these tundra brakes. Maybe try a power bleeder. Help pull all that air out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Unner]

01's have a special bleeding procedure. 01-02's don't have a vacuum brake booster, it's all electronic. Did you start from the rear?

You should start there since the system was opened. To bleed the rears leave the key in the on position and just push the pedal. This will make fluid come out of the rear brakes until you stop pushing the brake pedal. Then bleed the fronts like any normal brakes.

The pedal might feel a little bit different than stock brakes, but it shouldn't be mushy or go straight to the floor or anything. You sure nothing is leaking?

 

[LittleCaesar]

There was a thread not too long ago on the procedure. Of course I didn't bookmark it.

You may want to pull the ABS fuse and bleed them once again.

 

[TheDurk]

01's have a special bleeding procedure. 01-02's don't have a vacuum brake booster, it's all electronic. Did you start from the rear?

You should start there since the system was opened. To bleed the rears leave the key in the on position and just push the pedal. This will make fluid come out of the rear brakes until you stop pushing the brake pedal. Then bleed the fronts like any normal brakes.

The pedal might feel a little bit different than stock brakes, but it shouldn't be mushy or go straight to the floor or anything. You sure nothing is leaking?

Sorry, but on '01-'02 you START bleeding at the FRONT, different from the earlier models. Try following the exact FSM procedure below:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/br/braflu/blee.pdf

 

[Unner]

Sorry, but on '01-'02 you START bleeding at the FRONT, different from the earlier models. Try following the exact FSM procedure below:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/br/braflu/blee.pdf

Well I stand corrected. Why is it that the fronts are bled first though? I know the old adage is that you bleed the longest line first.

Does it stay the same if you use the Toyota plug in tool or just push the pedal and open the valve like all us DIY guys do?

 

[TheDurk]

Well I stand corrected. Why is it that the fronts are bled first though? I know the old adage is that you bleed the longest line first.

Does it stay the same if you use the Toyota plug in tool or just push the pedal and open the valve like all us DIY guys do?

Beats me. I have a '99. There is a thread that goes into detail on it from not too long ago.

 

[nissanh]

Also check here: This is for a Landcruiser wth VSC system found in 01 and 02 4runners

Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY | IH8MUD Forum
From above link:
"I bled the brakes in this order.
With key off, Right front, then Left Front. This is to get fluid into MC.
With key on, Right rear, then Left rear.
With key on Right front, then Left front.
Don't be shy about bleeding, long run to rear.

Two options at this point.
1. Carefully drive it to dealer for full system bleed.
2. Do some braking that activates ABS, gravel road, etc, then bleed again, rears then fronts."

 

[MStudt]

Sorry, but on '01-'02 you START bleeding at the FRONT, different from the earlier models. Try following the exact FSM procedure below:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/br/braflu/blee.pdf

This is what I was looking for.

Since I know the reservoir never got close to being under the min line I don't think I'll need to bleed the booster. So that should mean that I can skip to #4, and go right to bleeding the brakes down. I'll see what I can figure out.

01's have a special bleeding procedure. 01-02's don't have a vacuum brake booster, it's all electronic. Did you start from the rear?

The pedal might feel a little bit different than stock brakes, but it shouldn't be mushy or go straight to the floor or anything. You sure nothing is leaking?

I know the 01-02's were a bit different, but I couldn't find the information that I was looking for last night. Hopefully the information that [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] posted will be all that I need.

I'm also 100% sure there are no leaks. I had a leak on the passenger side, but that was already taken care of. At this point I'm seeing no evidence of fluid leaking out.

 

[MStudt]

I enlisted the help of my trusty partner this morning. I read through the FSM that [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] posted, and I took some information from there. I also took some of the information that [MENTION=85046]nissanh[/MENTION] posted. Finally I used this thread that gave basic information about bleeding an ABS system.

I started by taking some 1/4" ID tubing, and running it from a bottle to bleeder. I bled the passenger side with the key off, and had my wife pump the pedal about 30 more times. We did the same process on the driver side.

Next we turned the key to the on position. Once the key was in the on position the ABS pump instantly kicked, and started pushing fluid from the reservoir. Once the pump stopped we turned to key to off, and then I filled the reservoir back to the max level.

Next step was turning the ignition to on, and bleeding the same way from passenger to driver side. For every 2 pumps the ABS pump kicked just as it did the day before. After bleeding both sides again we turned the ignition the off, and topped off the reservoir.

Final step was turning the ignition key back to on so the ABS would pump again. Turned the key to off, and filled back to the max line. Then I did 5 pumps with the key off on both sides, and topped of again.

The pedal definitely feels better this time around. The brakes really grab, and did lock up going down my driveway. I'm going to take it for a stroll a little later to make sure they're working OK at normal speeds.

Thanks for the help guy!
[MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=85046]nissanh[/MENTION]