Problems idling on my 89 v6 4runner [video inside]

8

89StormTrooper

New member
Trying to diagnose a idle problem with my 4runner, first of all I have no check engine codes and I have checked and clean my TPS and everything seems within spec. The problem I'm having is at idle my runner pops/stumbles and run really rich but when you give it gas is revs up fine. I spent the last 30 minutes with a can of carb cleaner looking for vac leaks and even changed my TB gasket. :confused::confused: pulling out whats left of my hair here....HALP!! :ybrick::ybrick:

1989 4Runner SR5 4x4 -- 3vze running rough under idle situations - YouTube
 
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In the video description, you say that you had codes 51 and 52 which you said was knock sensor. I take it you're not getting those codes any more?

Check your tubing coming from the AFM to the throttle body. You could have a leak in there somewhere. If the AFM is telling the ECU that more or less air is entering the intake than what is actually coming in, you could have these issues. Have you tried to drive it? If so, how is the throttle response and power?

I noticed that you had a timing light connected to your spark plug wire in the video so I'm assuming that your timing is good.

I'm not too smart on the 3VZ motors so maybe someone can chime in and add to this thread to help you out.

Edit: I just noticed in your video that you are using barrel connectors on a plug for your coil. Double check those connectors and make sure that you're getting a good signal through them. This may or may not be the problem, but couldn't hurt to check.
 
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high rpm on a vehicle that has sat for a while will cause a vacuum line to crush or break.
It sound like a vacuum issue to me. hook up a vacuum tester to it.
the vacuum leak will cause the studder and the shake setting off the knock sensor
 
SV_Dude said:
In the video description, you say that you had codes 51 and 52 which you said was knock sensor. I take it you're not getting those codes any more?



Check your tubing coming from the AFM to the throttle body. You could have a leak in there somewhere. If the AFM is telling the ECU that more or less air is entering the intake than what is actually coming in, you could have these issues. Have you tried to drive it? If so, how is the throttle response and power?


I noticed that you had a timing light connected to your spark plug wire in the video so I'm assuming that your timing is good.

I'm not too smart on the 3VZ motors so maybe someone can chime in and add to this thread to help you out.

Edit: I just noticed in your video that you are using barrel connectors on a plug for your coil. Double check those connectors and make sure that you're getting a good signal through them. This may or may not be the problem, but couldn't hurt to check.
Click to expand...


No I got rid of those codes, I bought a pigtail and knock sensor and that eliminated that code and 51 just magically disappeared and hasn't returned yet.

The intake tubing is about the only thing I haven't checked yet for vac leaks, I have an extra intake tube somewhere I'll give it a go -- but when the truck was actually able to hold a idle for longer than a few seconds I was able to drive it and it had plenty of power; you would never think anything was wrong....until you came to a stop of course.

I'll do some more messing around tomorrow and report back with my results thanks for the feedback.


Bad_Vision said:
high rpm on a vehicle that has sat for a while will cause a vacuum line to crush or break.
It sound like a vacuum issue to me. hook up a vacuum tester to it.
the vacuum leak will cause the studder and the shake setting off the knock sensor
Click to expand...

I can't even get the motor to stay on unless I give it part throttle though, so I don't think that vac tester is going to do me any good.
 
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engine wont run without vacuum you could have serious leak, like intake gasket or throttle body gasket or your brake booster line.
one way to tell were the leak is to have someone crank the motor while you mist water around the engine cabinet the water will temporarily block the leak allowing the engine to start or try to start when this happens you have a general idea were the leak is if you have one.
 
Got it fixed, turned out to be a stupid vac leak. The intake tubing had some hairline cracks that were hard to see, bought some plumbing from lowes and made up a new one and it idles great now. Still hiccups(light pops) every once and a while through intake so I'm going to dig around somemore then I just have to make nipple for the EGR hose /PCV hose and I think she'll be ready for smog.


:fro:
 
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