Procedure on how to install Daystar 1" Front Leveling Kit

[luke87gt]

Hi guys, I will be ordering the Daystar 1" Leveling Kit for our 2006 4Runner to get rid of the rake.

I'm wondering if anyone has any procedure on the install steps? I will be doing this for the first time.

Thanks!

Luke

 

[S p a r k y]

Hi guys, I will be ordering the Daystar 1" Leveling Kit for our 2006 4Runner to get rid of the rake.

I'm wondering if anyone has any procedure on the install steps? I will be doing this for the first time.

Thanks!

Luke

Well Daystar has it on their website. Almost all the stickies at top of 4th gen has it on their pages. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/102272-4th-gen-suspension-options-faq.html

Google will tell you. you can find it anywhere really. There are several different ways to do it also.

 

[4RunninMD]

Youtube... Searching helps too. Good luck


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[leigh.erbe]

Super easy. You should be able to do it in snout2 hours max.


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[Dpassmore]

Loosen the Xreas clamp at the frame, do not loosen from the strut.
If you have Xreas that is.


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[luke87gt]

Loosen the Xreas clamp at the frame, do not loosen from the strut.
If you have Xreas that is.

The 4Runner is stock with no modifications. What is Xreas?

 

[luke87gt]

I just ordered this 1" front leveling kit (supposed to lift 2") - KT09117BK

Then I read the Daystar installation instructions which say that you have to cut the factory strut studs?? Ugh, not what I wanted to hear :-(

 

[Dpassmore]

Suspension package that has a line linking LF strut to RR and RF to LR strut. Makes it a little more difficult, but it's still easy.
I've found taking the front sway bar loose at the frame makes it much easier. I've done about 5 of these kits.


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[luke87gt]

Suspension package that has a line linking LF strut to RR and RF to LR strut. Makes it a little more difficult, but it's still easy.
I've found taking the front sway bar loose at the frame makes it much easier. I've done about 5 of these kits.


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Thank you for confirming and fortunately I don't have Xreas.

Can you confirm that the existing strut studs need to be cut? :-(

 

[Dpassmore]

They will. I cut very little off. Don't think I even got into the threads.


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[luke87gt]

Interesting... looks like some had to cut and some didn't with this 1" Daystar kit.

Here are two guys that said that they didn't cut the studs and everything tightened as expected:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1422281-post19.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1412692-post23.html

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

This is the easiest method I've found. I've installed that Daystar kit and did not have to trim the studs.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/77183-leveled-her-weekend.html

 

[luke87gt]

This is the easiest method I've found. I've installed that Daystar kit and did not have to trim the studs.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/77183-leveled-her-weekend.html

Awesome, thanks for the reply!

 

[Falcon3]

Ok I'm attempting the leveling kit install as we speak. I tried not cutting the studs and there is about 1/20 (1mm) of a gap below the stud extender and the top of the strut plate. I CUT a stud, and there is still a gap! WTF? Did Daystar not thread these far enough? I look into the stud extender and the threading isn't all the way to the end of the hole.
I'm uncomfortable without the stud extender fully flush as the bottom of the original stud represents a weak point in the strut attachment.

So did I get a bad set of extenders?
Is this normal?

 

[Falcon3]

Well to answer my own question, yes it's recommended to cut the studs. I called Daystar Cust Service and they told me the stud extenders should be flush with the strut top plate. So I cut the studs. Honestly, it made about 1/64 of an inch difference and still wasn't all the way flush, because the stock studs aren't threaded all the way down.
XREAS took all the fun out of the job, probably 6-7 hours working solo. Urging the back stud with a hand held back saw blade is not fun, especially with the XREAS hydraulic line at full extension. Got everything back together and started testing, and my left CV is binding at full droop. It's a new NAPA, not reman. The stock CV that's leaking with 170k on it spins fine. I'm hoping when I reinstall the sway bar and get an alignment, and let the lift settle, the binding goes away. If I jack up the LCA even 1/8", no binding at any point turning the wheel. Drop the jack to full drop and it binds by hand. Bummer.