csrobb007
New member
How about "SS" in Japanese lettering?
Project 1Ton "build thread" Many Pic's!
- Thread starter GonOvr
- Start date
How about "SS" in Japanese lettering?
GonOvr
New member
Should I get the tramp stamp too?
combatmedic
Banned
GonOvr
New member
Come on down! but hold off for a bit. The front axle is still torn apart and the radiator is getting some welding done to it. We should get a bunch of semi-local people together for a camping/wheeling trip.
The shifter is a Hurst pistol grip quarter stick.
GonOvr
New member
Well I got the shifters all finalized and it came out better than I thought. I actually got to save my rear window switch at the same time! Just used some plastic epoxy and placed it back in the stock location. Only had to lose the dish, and I'll take twin sticks over a dish anyday.
If anybody needs a new/used speedo and or tach hit me up. I have to switch to Autometer and I am putting them in the stock locations. They both work fine, just not for me anymore. All I ask is you pay shipping. It wont be until I actually change the gauges out. I plan on doing the change in a few weeks.
If anybody needs a new/used speedo and or tach hit me up. I have to switch to Autometer and I am putting them in the stock locations. They both work fine, just not for me anymore. All I ask is you pay shipping. It wont be until I actually change the gauges out. I plan on doing the change in a few weeks.
GonOvr
New member
As most of you know, my transmission bell housing snapped. Sending my tranny into a barrel roll inside the tunnel. Since i have to swap cases, I figured it was time to build the transmission more to my likings.
My original plans were to build a high hp/ high speed sand truck. Well my plans changed but my transmission stayed.
My current transmission:
th400, 3500 stall BTE torque converter, 300m billet shafts, cnc forward and direct drums, 34 element sprag, reverse manual valve body, billet clutch hub.
Pretty much setup for massive power, except for the case. The ears were shaved off the bell housing taking most of the structural support out of the housing. Ultimately causing it to break.
The new transmission:
Everything will be swapped over except the torque converter (going to a stock converter for a 6.5 diesel, about 1300 stall), ditching the reverse manual valve body for a stock one with a shift kit.
For those of you that don't know, a reverse valve body doesnt have engine braking, meaning you take your foot off the gas in any gear and the tranny acts like its in neutral. Companys do make them but they usually only have engine braking in 1 gear. Stock valve bodies have it in all gears. Trying to hold a rig on brakes alone down a steep hill with almost no vacuum is pretty rough.
First trail ever with this rig equals:
My original plans were to build a high hp/ high speed sand truck. Well my plans changed but my transmission stayed.
My current transmission:
th400, 3500 stall BTE torque converter, 300m billet shafts, cnc forward and direct drums, 34 element sprag, reverse manual valve body, billet clutch hub.
Pretty much setup for massive power, except for the case. The ears were shaved off the bell housing taking most of the structural support out of the housing. Ultimately causing it to break.
The new transmission:
Everything will be swapped over except the torque converter (going to a stock converter for a 6.5 diesel, about 1300 stall), ditching the reverse manual valve body for a stock one with a shift kit.
For those of you that don't know, a reverse valve body doesnt have engine braking, meaning you take your foot off the gas in any gear and the tranny acts like its in neutral. Companys do make them but they usually only have engine braking in 1 gear. Stock valve bodies have it in all gears. Trying to hold a rig on brakes alone down a steep hill with almost no vacuum is pretty rough.
First trail ever with this rig equals:
4Running Daily
New member
They say for every inch of tire their is one square inch of flaw.
KidVermicious
New member
What do we always tell the newbies? Armor, then upgrades, right? :lol:
GonOvr
New member
Is that the size of one tire or all? If it's one then next trip should get me current. If it's for all then I got a lot more work to do.
Thats what i see on all those jeeps. Right now im testing the body for weak spots then I'll armor the bad area's.
GonOvr
New member
Well since I got in this months run for T4ROTM I guess i should update this somewhat...
Since I have another thread about the whole gauge scenario Ill just post the stages of the gauge install.
These need to fit in here...
Since my drill thought my clear plastic cover was highly overrated and decided to instantly destroy said clear plastic, this is what i came up with.
After wiring and installing.. Ding fries are done.
This was pretty time consuming and I didnt hardly take any pictures. I do have some red led's for the side gauges that will be here tomorrow.
Since I have another thread about the whole gauge scenario Ill just post the stages of the gauge install.
These need to fit in here...
Since my drill thought my clear plastic cover was highly overrated and decided to instantly destroy said clear plastic, this is what i came up with.
After wiring and installing.. Ding fries are done.
This was pretty time consuming and I didnt hardly take any pictures. I do have some red led's for the side gauges that will be here tomorrow.
Bad_Vision
Moderator
lookin good nate!!!
GonOvr
New member
The only thing that sucks is that the rheostat for the lights works by resisting the ground side of the lights. I can't wire up the gauges to work with the rheostat because there is no ground wire for the autometer led's, i guess it uses a central internal ground. Pretty much if i wire it up through the rheostat, they will get brighter the dimmer the rest of the lights are and vice versa. So full bright for everything it is.
Bad_Vision
Moderator
you could just make it a power controlled rheostat thats whats nice about DC as long is its not a self ground rheostat you can run power through it and its only getting like what 1.5 maybe 2 amp with LEDs that not enough to burn the switch out
GonOvr
New member
It has a ground side to it shared through the main light switch and dimmer switch. It would short to ground trying to send power through the rheostat. To make it work I would have to ground the current power side to the lights,cut the ground from the rheostat and turn it into power. I like the idea of switching grounds over power any day.
Possible yes, more than i want to deal with... also yes.
CAN-03runner
New member
GonOvr
New member
:lol::boxer:eace::bravo:
Touche
Similar threads
