Project 1Ton "build thread" Many Pic's!

Well i'm just going to keep on truckin.
Fuel.
Since I'll be getting about 3 Gal/Mi I needed to be able to feed the fire. The factory fuel lines and pump will not work for me. Maybe for a 4.3l swap but not 510hp of 40" tire burning happiness.
First i removed the fuel pump out if the tank. Since the sending unit and fuel pump are separate. You can do what you want. My last project I replaced the factory fuel pump with a mustang GT pump. This time I'm going mechanical for safety and serviceability issues.
I gutted everything out of the bracket. drilled a hole big enough to put a -8 AN fitting and then i ran a stainless tube to the bottom.
This is the end product. At least 2-3x bigger fuel supply line.
DSC00290.jpg~original

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DSC00291.jpg~original

I ran stainless braided -8AN fuel line all the way to the Carb.
Heres a conversion if you are unfamiliar with AN sizes.
a -2 hose has an I.D. of 1/8"
a -3 hose has an I.D. of 3/16"
a -4 hose has an I.D. of 1/4"
a -5 hose has an I.D. of 5/16"
a -6 hose has an I.D. of 3/8"
a -8 hose has an I.D. of 1/2"
a -10 hose has an I.D. of 5/8"
a -12 hose has an I.D. of 3/4"
a -16 hose has an I.D. of 1"
a -20 hose has an I.D. of 1 1/4"

Exhaust.
On this product there are 3 things that my friends and I didnt do. Narrow the axles and do the exhaust.
Luckily for a local subaru performance shop. I got the exhaust i wanted.
Dual 3" with H-pipe and Flowmasters all the way back.
Getting 3" in a 4runner with a V8 is no easy task.
The front portion had to be mandrel bends due to the tight space also the whole exhaust was done in sections so it is removeable from the 4runner.
DSC00301.jpg~original

the rest was done on a tube bender and pretty much came straight down the drivers side .
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The lift i needed from the start.
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Shock Hoops and mounts
Now that the suspension has vehicle weight back on it i started mocking up the front hoops.
I used the same fish line and washer method to get the hoop centered on the axle tube. As you can see mine are not straight with the frame, they are straight with the ground.
DSC00124.jpg~original

DSC00125.jpg~original

I had my lower tab's made, i cut them out of cardboard then took them to a plasma table and cut them out of 1/4" steel. I welded mine to the top of the U-bolt plate. Everyone has their own idea's this was mine. (shocks are fox 2.0 reservoir 14" travel)
DSC00325-1.jpg~original

For the Rear
I used Sky's rear shock hoop (dont mind the booger welds, it was redone)
DSC00285.jpg~original

Made tabs for the bottom just like i did the front.
DSC00326-1.jpg~original


Up next... transmission coolers, traction bars, custom hood and what ever else i can think of.
 
.....it just doesnt stop!! This thread has kept my attention all day!! Everytime i check back, it gets even better!! Dont stop!! :cheers:
 
Oh gawd, brace yourself for people hating on your use of lift blocks... I made the same mistake (shackle angle) when I did my rears. Your not alone. Im excited to see your drive shaft and steering solutions. cool rig,color me jealous!
I could have bought new 12" springs for the rear. I could have bought 5" springs for the front, taken out the block, bought all new drive shafts and shocks. Since i already spent too much money, blocks were the best choice at the time. It might change, it might not. I have a really good traction bar system in place so the axle doesn't move or try to do backflips for that matter.
 
Alright, Transmission coolers.
Since in theory more HP=more heat, i needed to keep this thing cool sitting in traffic. I had to keep the 2 main heat sources(engine & transmission) seperate. As you may know most transmission coolers are in or on the radiator. I said F that! I'm putting my coolers in the back over the rear axle. Since i have a deep transmission and 2 coolers i have plenty of oil and cooling capabilities.
Each cooler has it's own fan on switched power so they are constantly on when the key is in the run position. I used -5AN hose and fittings to plumb everything up. (only picture i have of the cooler's)
DSC00326-1.jpg~original


Traction bar setup.
I got this idea from this truck, this is my buddies truck and he has a similar setup but he uses one in the center. I went with 2 to be symmetrical.
For the axle portion i got 2 land rover - range rover front control arms and made brackets to mount them the same way i did the shock tabs. They are made out of 1/4" steel also and i used the land rover mounting hardware.
The side you cant see has a full bracket that goes from bolt to bolt.
DSC00463-1.jpg~original

I ran double wall DOM (one size over pipe over another) then slide it on to the end of the control arm. That was about 3/8"-7/16" wall DOM, i tried running one and the first test i bent the tube. Thats how much torque i'm dealing with.
DSC00462-1.jpg~original

For the front mount I beefed up the crossmember that i welded the shackle mount to and just used some shackles and bushings I had laying around.
DSC00465-1.jpg~original

So as you can see i have a pretty stout traction system and there is no brackets hanging on the bottom side of the axle.

Something not many have...
A 2nd Gen Cowl Hood
This one happens to be from showdown customs in North Carolina, the fit and quality are spot on!
I needed it to clear my intake and filter setup. This gives me about 1.5" of clearance.
439d5c4c.jpg~original

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Im excited to see your drive shaft and steering solutions. cool rig,color me jealous!

As for steering, I Used Sky for this. I used their dana60 High steer kit with a custom tie rod and drag link also made by them with 1-ton rod ends. I had a toyota dropped pitman arm taper bored to accept a 1-ton Rod end.

DSC00325-1.jpg~original

Sorry about the quality don't have a good picture.
DSC00327.jpg~original


As for shafts I Used tom woods. Both shafts are identical except the rear shaft has a bigger tube and the pinion joint isnt offset. They have 1350 CV's at the T-case machined for extra clearance and droop, these max at about 37*. The front has an offset pinion joint to help with clearance between the shaft and yoke. Both are Long travel splined, polished and clear coated. Haven't really used the front shaft yet but the rear one goes like a dream. So far ive had it up to 70mph and no vibrations or crazy shaking at all.
Front shaft shown. I dont have a picture of the rear uninstalled.
DSC00438.jpg~original

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Video's!
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/I684OnrkO8U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I peppered this guys Cadillac by accident. My wife was recording. Oops
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/WCkVi1Xbwhs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/H5SH9FFX7pY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/8MWbo--vzcw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Damn it, my office wont let me watch the vids!!! I guess ill have to wait a few hours then, its gonna kill me!! :cheers:
 
Thanks Guys! :cheers: What you are looking at is my therapy from my tour to Afghanistan. I got back June last year and built this thing late June through late November. It's by no means finished yet. I have a lot in store for it just have to do my time in Korea first. If anyone has any questions on how to, why or what ever please feel free to ask. The stupidest question is the one that was never asked.
 
That is freaking awesome man! I would love to be able to budget something relatively close to that someday! I like the b4 and after pics! What a beast! :pimp:
 

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