Projector Retrofit Aiming Adjustments

T4Rfirefighter

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After completing my retrofit and getting it aimed correctly, I have noticed how far the bottom of the headlight lens sticks out now compared to before I did the retrofit. It also seems like I am using very little of the threads on the adjusting rods for the housings. Is this normal?

I don't have any pictures of it at the moment to show what I'm talking about.
 
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It's called search.....

Look up projector build, you should find a thread from (A.Wilson) and parts will be listed
 
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OP

So I just had some projectors installed as well, however I didn't build my own
A.Wilson built them. I noticed on my passenger side the lense stick out maybe a 1/4 inch from the hood line/grill. And on the driver side it's more flush.

When you aimed your lights did you line up the drop down or line up the color cut off, if that makes sense.
 
Get familiar with that screw driver buddy.

You will want to adjust both parts.

Also there are some Headlight aiming threads already if you do the Google.
 
my ball joint used to keep coming out and moving. last week I machined a ball socket out of aluminum, shit used to drive me crazy. now they stay aligned all the time.
 
Get familiar with that screw driver buddy.

You will want to adjust both parts.

Also there are some Headlight aiming threads already if you do the Google.

That's why I'm scratching my head over all this. They are already aimed according to what those threads say. I spent a lot of time adjusting both headlights and now the glass looks off.
 
When I did Mine they were the same way. I just learned to live with it, I'd rather it look like that than the headlight pattern be all kattywompous.
 
After completing my retrofit and getting it aimed correctly, I have noticed how far the bottom of the headlight lens sticks out now compared to before I did the retrofit. It also seems like I am using very little of the threads on the adjusting rods for the housings. Is this normal?

I don't have any pictures of it at the moment to show what I'm talking about.
TLDR -your projectors are crooked in the housing and you have to over adjust to fix that-


I don't think they understand what you are asking. Yes it is normal, well sort off. It's because your projectors are not straight relative to the headlight. that's why in the TRS retrofit walk throughs they tell you to bench test the lights with halogen, mark that line, and then do the install then bench aim the projectors, and then install it in the headlights. So basically it's your install not the aiming.

Check out the proper install/pre-aiming technique here:

Projectors: FX-R 3.0 Guide - DIY Installation Guides

See step 1

Even though this on the FXR page it applies to all projectors installs.
 
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How do you change the aim of a threaded body projector like the D2S? It doesn't have the adjusters like the FX-Rs do for the projector itself.

Do I just need to snug down the retaining nut on the projector?
 
I really wish you could post some pics.

If you install the Mini D2S correctly it should not be an issue.

I posted pics in my post recent thread. Did you do it the way I did?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-gen-projector-retrofits-very-small-made.html

BTW I put the rubber on the inside, AWislon does it on the outside. I don't know who's right. Both probably work fine.

The nut should be very snug. I prefer the rubber on the inside and then when you put pressure on the projector the nut is loose and you can tighten it more. BTW after tightening everything down and making the projector as horizontal (even) with the housing as possible, I put I small bit of jbweld on the outside of the large nut and plastic housing. Pictures in my thread. This will hold the alignment under stress. If you want to remove the bulb down the road it will be an easy 30 secs with a dremmel tool.
 
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I'm at the fire station today, but I'll try to get some pics uploaded.

I have the silicone ring inside the housing and used a wrench to tighten the nut.
 
For what it is worth the 4 alignment tabs when correct will probably be most of the towards the end of the bolt thread with just a small part of the metal thread visible on each.

How much space? I'd say the thickness of 2 quarters, no much more. If you set them all to that and adjust from there you should be able to get it aligned easy enough.
 


Both sides are like this.

Like I said, with the D2S projectors I have, I don't know how I'm supposed to change the alignment within the housing. There are no adjusters like the FX-R, only the threaded body.
 

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