proposed set up of alpine headunit and amp, plus jl sub.... comments?

longeeMAC

longeeMAC

New member
hey, i just wanna hear some comments on this set up imma get.

i have a 97 4runner limited.

Set up I want:
Alpine CDA-9884 headunit
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CN8ydZHIgOg/p_500CDA9884/Alpine-CDA-9884.html?o=r&tp=5684

JL Audio 12"sub loaded in enclosure
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16641_JL+Audio+CS112TG-W1v2.html (no photo here, but looks like http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136S112R12/JL-Audio-CS112RG-W1v2.html?tp=112&tab=review#tab)

Alpine MRP-M500
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Alpine-MRP-...ryZ18795QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I think i will just keep all the component speakers at stock for the moment. So my questions are:
1) if i decide to get aftermarket component speakers in the future, i would need another amp right? and if so, can i have two amp hooked up to the headunit?
2) where should i place the amp? which path is the best to run the wires?


Please comment on this system, and help me improve it. also any advice would be great as i am a newbie.... i just have a roommate who has some experience with aftermarket stuff, so that i'm not going in blindly.

Thanks.
 
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What are your goals for the sub? Loud, clean?

Just switching to an aftermarket headunit will make a big difference in sound from your speakers.

Unless I'm mistaken that head unit has three pre outs. That is all you will need to install subs and speakers in both doors.

If you do get new door speakers you don't HAVE to amp them, but it would be best.

I installed my amp on the back of my rear seat. You could also mount it under the driver or passenger seat possibly. Just make sure the ground is fairly short.

Make sure you run the power wire down the drivers' side and then the remote turn on and RCA's down the other side.

Which wiring kit are you going with?
 
Clemsonfan15 said:

Make sure you run the power wire down the drivers' side and then the remote turn on and RCA's down the other side.
Click to expand...

Why not run the remote turn-on wire alongside the power cable? That's what I would do.
 
Clemsonfan15 said:
Remote turn on and RCA's are going to the same place, power wire isn't.
Click to expand...

The idea is to separate the audio signal (RCA's) from potential interference from the 12V+ power source. Since the remote turn-on is just another pulse of 12V+, it makes sense to run it along the power cable.

Anyway, this is how I've always done it, and I've installed quite a few systems in my day! :nerd:

I remember when certain companies used to package their RCA's with the remote turn-on wire in between the left and right channels. That isn't a common practice anymore, IFAIK, and we're seeing a lot more home-grown twisted pair RCAs too.
 
If you are only installing a sub there is no reason to run the RCAs and amp turn on down the passenger side.

The MRPM500 is waaay too much power for a single 12W1. You can always turn the amp down but I would suggest either the JL G2250 or stepping up to a single 12W3.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Do you have a recommendation for the wiring kit?

I will definitely run the RCA cable separate from the power cable, not sure about the control knob cable though. I guess which route is the easiest is the way I will go.

I really want to put it up the driver seat because I move stuff sometimes and i fold down my rear seats to make more room. AND only if necessary, I'll take out the woofer.

Clemsonfan15 said:
What are your goals for the sub? Loud, clean?

Just switching to an aftermarket headunit will make a big difference in sound from your speakers.

Unless I'm mistaken that head unit has three pre outs. That is all you will need to install subs and speakers in both doors.

If you do get new door speakers you don't HAVE to amp them, but it would be best.

I installed my amp on the back of my rear seat. You could also mount it under the driver or passenger seat possibly. Just make sure the ground is fairly short.

Make sure you run the power wire down the drivers' side and then the remote turn on and RCA's down the other side.

Which wiring kit are you going with?
Click to expand...
 
Hmm, yeah I looked into this. So apparently the JL speakers are optimum at 150W. So i think I will get this
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-1300a-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B000RNS2UA
instead. It can supply 200W rms. But not at amazon, as it is too expensive.

The JL G2250 seems a bit on the expensive side.


tarheeltp17 said:
If you are only installing a sub there is no reason to run the RCAs and amp turn on down the passenger side.

The MRPM500 is waaay too much power for a single 12W1. You can always turn the amp down but I would suggest either the JL G2250 or stepping up to a single 12W3.
Click to expand...
 
How much is that Alpine amp? I would probably just buy that and adjust your gain. That way you can always upgrade in the future.

That Infinity amp doesn't look the best.

Since your using less than 500 RMS 4 gauge wire should be fine. If you think you will upgrade in the future go with 1/0 gauge. Kicker and Knukonceptz make good kits.
 
The JL is a bit more pricey than the alpine, however the JL is one of the most efficient amplifiers on the market. The MRPM500 is a heck of an amp though and would definitely suggest that amp for other purposes or if you planned on upgrading to a 2 sub setup down the road.

Again, running the RCAs separate from the power wire in a sub setup is only creating more work for you. Subs play at frequencies that are not associated with engine noise.

You also can get by with a true 8 gauge wire kit for the MRPM500. 8 ga is rated up to 400 watts and even on the side of the MRPM500 are terminals designed for 8 ga input.

Think main thing to consider when chosing between amps and subs is if you plan on upgrading in the future. For example, if you are like me who only keeps a car for a few years, I only install once and don't plan to build as I go. So if you dont' plan on upgrading from the MRPM500 to a larger amp, an 8 gauge kit will work just fine. Kicker, memphis, JL, TMA... all make true wire gauge amp kits. Sound quest isn't terrible and I doubt you run into any problems with them; I'm acutally using a 4 guage to power a 500/1 and their 8 gauge to run a 300/4 and have had 0 problems at all.
 
Hmm... I'm not sure if i will upgrade later in the future. My friend says with this setup, there will be enough thump already. I have yet to hear it for myself tho.

So with this 150 rms jl sub, do you think it will satisfy my thirst for bass?
 
thirst for bass... no. 150 watts on a sub is completely different than 150 watts on mids/highs. Drop another 100 and get a single W3 with the MRPM500 and that should satisfy your thirst.

And i would stay away from those MTX packages... anything can make a car rattle but the JL will get you great sound too!
 
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