Propper Throttle body adjustment (INCLUDING IAC) WITH PICS!
- Thread starter Bill_Dunnigan
- Start date
Nelsonmd
New member
Just a little recommendation for the write-up:
If your screws are stuck in there, instead of using a 90deg screwdriver, pick up a manual impact driver like one of these:
Tekton 3/8 Driver
OTC 3/8" Impact Driver
OTC 1/2" Impact Driver
You just have to support the IAC, put the impact driver in the screw head, then tap the back end with a hammer. It will pop the screws loose like butter.
Also, if you are worried about stripping the screw head, go to Autozone and pick up a tube of valve grinding compound and put a little dab on the tip of the screwdriver. That will give your screwdriver some ridiculous grip.
Also, if you're so inclined, you can buy some JIS screwdrivers so that you actually have the right tool for these screws. They are not actually phillips screws, they are JIS.
If your screws are stuck in there, instead of using a 90deg screwdriver, pick up a manual impact driver like one of these:
Tekton 3/8 Driver
OTC 3/8" Impact Driver
OTC 1/2" Impact Driver
You just have to support the IAC, put the impact driver in the screw head, then tap the back end with a hammer. It will pop the screws loose like butter.
Also, if you are worried about stripping the screw head, go to Autozone and pick up a tube of valve grinding compound and put a little dab on the tip of the screwdriver. That will give your screwdriver some ridiculous grip.
Also, if you're so inclined, you can buy some JIS screwdrivers so that you actually have the right tool for these screws. They are not actually phillips screws, they are JIS.
infamousRNR
Senior Member
nice pictures!
thanks for the contribution
thanks for the contribution
ArneilAquino
New member
Hey guys, sorry for reviving an old thread. I recently had a problem with the idle speed. I actually used this thread to help me clean the throttle body, but i did not bother to clean the IAC. Everything was working fine for a month, until two days ago I got a check engine light code p0505. I'm planning on buying a new IAC rather than cleaning it. I was not willing to spent 200+ at Autozone. I actually called Toyota of Kendall (Miami) and they have the part for 98$, whereas the one at Toyota of Hollywood was $295 (no clue why?). The link from eBay one of you guys provided was for a 3.4L V6, I have a 2.7 V4. Is it a good idea to buy this? Or should I research deeper into finding a v4 2.7?
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
Great write-up, the only thing i would change is you say "*Do not loose or bend the thin metal gasket behind the TB!*" but in the FSM it states that the tb gasket is non-reusable. Now of course you can get away with reusing it but instead i recommend buying a trd tb "O" gasket rather than the stock "D" gasket. You can see the difference in the pictures. The trd gasket allows for better air flow.
Attachments
iac buzzes
I bench tested my IAC valve with a 12V power supply. It closed without a sound, but when I switched terminals and made it open, it buzzed. It stayed open, but it was buzzing (and not from where I my leads were touching the terminals).
Does anyone know if that's normal?
Thanks.
I bench tested my IAC valve with a 12V power supply. It closed without a sound, but when I switched terminals and made it open, it buzzed. It stayed open, but it was buzzing (and not from where I my leads were touching the terminals).
Does anyone know if that's normal?
Thanks.
ZionXIX
New member
Good write up and lots of nice pics. I did this the other day and while my IAC is still working great, the seal is broken around the coolant side and there is so much crusty grit between the two surafce, I dont even think a new gasket will seal it. Is it ok to sand the two surfaces flat again? If not, I will have to bypass the IAC coolant line. Shouldnt be too much problem due to the year round tropical climate, but I would rather operate the engine as intended.
Thanks, -z
Thanks, -z
Bstrom
New member
If your a tightwad DIYer type like me, you can also craft one out of nearly any gasket material - I used some Gates cork material and it's been fine. Just don't use any sealants or goops on it. Need to remove for occasional cleaning...
BN-2B
Member
What makes the IAC rattle?
Greetings!
Excellent information. Broadening horizons, for which I am eternally grateful.
I extracted, cleaned and tested the IAC as outlined in this thread and discovered that it functions as it should. Yet, when plugged into its harness with the ignition activated, the IAC rattles like an old film projector, opening and closing very fast. This behavior is what led me to believe the IAC was the source of our problem but perhaps it is only a symptom.
What problem? My 4Runner (1997 3.4L) unexpectedly died (while driving normally) and will not wake up. We've only been together since January. She was running better and better every day thanks to the information gathered on this Forum. When she passed out it was as if the engine was starved of fuel. Turns out the engine was flooded. The only sound was that IAC rattle when the key is on. The only time she has fired up since is when the plugs were removed and cleaned and the cylinders were allowed time to dry out. She started up strong with the pedal to the floor then instantly drowned in fuel.
Coming in the mail we have an OEM fuel pressure regulator, and a new OEM IAC. As well as a PCV valve.
Cleaned the TB, MAF, all filters, plugs and wires are fresh.
My question here is this:
Where does the signal originate to make the IAC rattle?
Perhaps this symptom can help illuminate the true source of our problem.
Thanks in advance.
Greetings!
Excellent information. Broadening horizons, for which I am eternally grateful.
I extracted, cleaned and tested the IAC as outlined in this thread and discovered that it functions as it should. Yet, when plugged into its harness with the ignition activated, the IAC rattles like an old film projector, opening and closing very fast. This behavior is what led me to believe the IAC was the source of our problem but perhaps it is only a symptom.
What problem? My 4Runner (1997 3.4L) unexpectedly died (while driving normally) and will not wake up. We've only been together since January. She was running better and better every day thanks to the information gathered on this Forum. When she passed out it was as if the engine was starved of fuel. Turns out the engine was flooded. The only sound was that IAC rattle when the key is on. The only time she has fired up since is when the plugs were removed and cleaned and the cylinders were allowed time to dry out. She started up strong with the pedal to the floor then instantly drowned in fuel.
Coming in the mail we have an OEM fuel pressure regulator, and a new OEM IAC. As well as a PCV valve.
Cleaned the TB, MAF, all filters, plugs and wires are fresh.
My question here is this:
Where does the signal originate to make the IAC rattle?
Perhaps this symptom can help illuminate the true source of our problem.
Thanks in advance.
BN-2B
Member
A bad ECM, that's what.
Ok! Well...
If anyone else ever finds their way to this thread researching their IAC or fuel system, we have some information on what may affect its behavior.
In my case, the rattling IAC and flooded engine were symptoms of a failed ECM.
Yes. I replaced my IAC because of corrosion but it bench tested fine, and the new one rattled as well.
I found a "Pull Off ECM" on eBay for a good price and swapped it with mine.
Shazam. Problem solved.
Took only three weeks to figure it out.
Ok! Well...
If anyone else ever finds their way to this thread researching their IAC or fuel system, we have some information on what may affect its behavior.
In my case, the rattling IAC and flooded engine were symptoms of a failed ECM.
Yes. I replaced my IAC because of corrosion but it bench tested fine, and the new one rattled as well.
I found a "Pull Off ECM" on eBay for a good price and swapped it with mine.
Shazam. Problem solved.
Took only three weeks to figure it out.
tystaco
New member
Any tips on removing the coolant lines from the IAC? Mine are super stuck...I was able to unscrew the IAC screws and left the bottom half in place attached to the coolant lines...but that was dumb because then I got coolant in all of the ports...
Ideas? I'd like to get the coolant lines off and pull the whole thing this time and make sure coolant is not where it belongs before I start the vehicle back up.
Ideas? I'd like to get the coolant lines off and pull the whole thing this time and make sure coolant is not where it belongs before I start the vehicle back up.
ZionXIX
New member
Mine were fairly stuck on but i removed them while the IAC was still attached to the throttle body. You could bolt everything back up without super tightening the screws an then try to work the hoses off. be careful with those IAC screws, they are not normal phillips heads and can strip easily. In the past I have used a flat head screw driver to "Push" the hoses off. Sometimes it works. Other times I shredded the hose. Since everything is disconnected, you could possibly "twist" the hose to try and break whatever crud is holding it to the nipple. But I have never done that before. Use at your own risk.
Sorry I couldnt be more help. At least my comment will bump the thread for you.
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fourfive
Senior Member
shortly before my engine swap I thoroughly cleaned the IAC (it already was in xlnt shape) and old engine ran great. blown head gasket led to engine swap and all the old perfect working parts went on new engine, well I've been battling a high idle (no cel's) so today I pulled the TB and removed the IAC and still perfectly clean the barrel rotating freely,I applied voltage to each side, the motor is dead.
what the heck happens to these electronic parts just by swapping between engines?? I also had to replace the ICM that rolled over and died.
but...im thrilled to HOPEFULLY find the culprit :dancin:
I don't suppose you can buy just the motor for these gizmo's?
what the heck happens to these electronic parts just by swapping between engines?? I also had to replace the ICM that rolled over and died.
but...im thrilled to HOPEFULLY find the culprit :dancin:
I don't suppose you can buy just the motor for these gizmo's?
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stever1000
New member
What's the part number for just the IAC gasket?
stever1000
New member
Found the number: 22215-62180
It comes up as throttle body gasket on some diagrams, but it looks like its on the IAC in the diagram.
It comes up as throttle body gasket on some diagrams, but it looks like its on the IAC in the diagram.
Thanks for this thread. I've got a 1999 sr5. I've completed the cleaning and installed a new ICV. All good. My intake hose that connects to the throttle body directly just crumbled so had to await new part. I also replaced the 2 coolant lines that run to the ICV. (those clips were a bugger to get off so just cut the lines) Anyway...reassembly, the coolant lines run into both sides...I just forgot which one goes where. Does the line out..closest to fire wall run under the throttle body? Then the other line out just go into the other side? I can take a picture if I'm not being clear. Any help would be great. Not so mechanical so my jobs take awhile. Have one more kid to get through HS with this ride! Thanks!
octanejunkie
Elite Member
There are 3 hose connections to the IAC valve. The two smaller black ones are a passthrough and the larger grey one connects on the bottom. Look at the pics of the IAC on the OPs post and you can see 3 hose fittings on the IAC.
If you cut these hoses and have to replace them I can tell you the ones that come from the firewall side of the engine are a bugger Lol
Luck
Yes, thank it was a bugger. I know that the 2 coolant lines run in on opposite sides.
My question...the line closest to fire wall...does that go into the ICV on the side closer to the front of the engine? Runs right under throttle body and into ICV?
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