Pros and Cons between OME 881/890 and Toytec Boss

[jeredcollins]

I still haven’t pulled the triggered yet on my lift.

I want 2.5-3” of lift and geometry to stay in line as much as possible (realize I’ll need upgrade UCA). I’ll be on the pavement 90% of the time as well. Just the occasional camping/light off roading trip. Comfort is paramount in my selection.

Should I go with the OME 881/890 with Bilstein 5100 Tundra shocks? I read 4Runner Bilstein shocks with 2.5-3” of lift is too rough and not enough travel on the shocks. Will I need an upgraded UCA with this setup?

Other option is Toytec Boss Coilover kit w/ UCA. Sounds like this kit will run me an extra $500 but is it worth it based off reliability and comfort?

 

[thezentree]

Never run the 5100s but I have Boss coilovers w/ 550lb springs up front and 890s in the rear of mine and it rides great.

 

[jeredcollins]

Never run the 5100s but I have Boss coilovers w/ 550lb springs up front and 890s in the rear of mine and it rides great.

What shock did you use for the rear? Why shouldn’t we use 5100s as well?

 

[apohl17]

I am in the process of building up my rig as we speak. Just installed 890s with tundra billies in the rear- (very easy lift btw), have yet to get in on the ground to measure gained height and ride quality. Since I work on a two post hydraulic car lift, at full rear droop the rear brake hose was on the verge of stretching out, so I bent the upper bracket to about 30 degrees and had to add a link to raise the parking brake guide bracket, but this may not be necessary if you ever plan on getting to full rear droop. Also, a 3" lift will push the axle over to the passenger side a decent amount, so either way, look into panhard correction brackets.

Anyways, if you still need answers in a week or two, I should have it all together and I will post again with ride quality, feels, etc!

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I still haven’t pulled the triggered yet on my lift.

I want 2.5-3” of lift and geometry to stay in line as much as possible (realize I’ll need upgrade UCA). I’ll be on the pavement 90% of the time as well. Just the occasional camping/light off roading trip. Comfort is paramount in my selection.

Should I go with the OME 881/890 with Bilstein 5100 Tundra shocks? I read 4Runner Bilstein shocks with 2.5-3” of lift is too rough and not enough travel on the shocks. Will I need an upgraded UCA with this setup?

Other option is Toytec Boss Coilover kit w/ UCA. Sounds like this kit will run me an extra $500 but is it worth it based off reliability and comfort?

It sounds like your thinking was the same as mine. You could probably piece together a lift cheaper than toytec's price, but the one stop shop is appealing. The BOSS kit with new SPC UCA's is over $1800. To me, that's a lot of money. Here's my breakdown.

OME front springs $170
OME rear springs $170
Bilstein front and rear shocks $350
2nd gen rear sway bar links $30
Bump stops from the guy on this forum $125(they look to be nice quality)
SPC UCA's $500
EIM Keiths panhard bar brackets $80 (need to be welded)
Dif Drop $20
Total $1445

To be honest, I don't know if those BOSS coilovers are better than the Bilsteins. The question is whether they are over $300 better for what your using them for. My list gets you better bumpstops and a fix for the rear panhard. (which the Toytec kit doesn't address) I had my brackets welded on for $175 which I thought was a tad high but he installed the panhard bar for me. The price for the OME springs could get you about any spring you want (OEM Tundra, Eibach etc) You WILL want the SPC UCA's. Worth the money to get back the lost caster and steering control.

I will say this, I'm not a fan of the bumpstops as they utilize the factory bumpstop and those things are like cement.

 

[TRD 4RNR]

What shock did you use for the rear? Why shouldn’t we use 5100s as well?

I think he was saying - he has never run 5100s

 

[rideexileex]

I have had many several different setups in many different 4runners / Tacos. By far, my favorite is the 5100 route. I've personally ran the 5100s, OME, KYB's, NAPA, and ridden in the BOSS setups. 5100 has been the most road comfortable.

My recommendation is to follow the sonoran steel 1.2 kit as close as possible. For a road warrior, I'd lean towards saying UCA's are a nice option, but not necessary.

 

[jeredcollins]

I have had many several different setups in many different 4runners / Tacos. By far, my favorite is the 5100 route. I've personally ran the 5100s, OME, KYB's, NAPA, and ridden in the BOSS setups. 5100 has been the most road comfortable.

My recommendation is to follow the sonoran steel 1.2 kit as close as possible. For a road warrior, I'd lean towards saying UCA's are a nice option, but not necessary.

I just looked at the sonoran steel 1.2 kit and didn't see the UCA's for it. Do you not need those for that lift?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I just looked at the sonoran steel 1.2 kit and didn't see the UCA's for it. Do you not need those for that lift?

Anything around or over 3" you'll need the UCAs to get caster back.

 

[terryna]

subscribed, this seems like a very interesting thread

 

[rideexileex]

Lifting anything over about 2.5 inches just starts to ride like ass IMO... lift while keeping it low.

BTW - panhard lift/drop brackets are the way to go. I hated the adjustable bar setup. It introduces too much lateral play on hard / fast hits.

 

[thezentree]

What shock did you use for the rear? Why shouldn’t we use 5100s as well?

I think he was saying - he has never run 5100s

Sorry, yes, that's what I meant. I blame the 4:30am alarm clock. :ranger:

Bilsteins are good shocks, I just don't have any experience with 5100s. My rear shocks are Toytec Superflex or whatever that comes with the Boss and Eibach kits.

 

[markinWA]

I have had many several different setups in many different 4runners / Tacos. By far, my favorite is the 5100 route. I've personally ran the 5100s, OME, KYB's, NAPA, and ridden in the BOSS setups. 5100 has been the most road comfortable.

My recommendation is to follow the sonoran steel 1.2 kit as close as possible. For a road warrior, I'd lean towards saying UCA's are a nice option, but not necessary.

As a very green 4runner owner, and by green I mean newbie when it comes to suspension upgrades, I have gone ahead and purchased 4runner bilstein 5100s to use with OME 881/890 combo. I'm honestly not looking for a lift really. My 17 year old 02 4runner just needs new shocks.

My question are:

Will the 4runner billies be okay?

Do I need to add a spacer anywhere to prevent my truck from leaning towards a direction?

Will the 1" diff drop kit be beneficial if I'm just sticking to the 1.25" lift of the 881 plus the 2" of the 890?

I can't return what I have at this point. So I just need to make sense of it all.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

As a very green 4runner owner, and by green I mean newbie when it comes to suspension upgrades, I have gone ahead and purchased 4runner bilstein 5100s to use with OME 881/890 combo. I'm honestly not looking for a lift really. My 17 year old 02 4runner just needs new shocks.

My question are:

Will the 4runner billies be okay?

Do I need to add a spacer anywhere to prevent my truck from leaning towards a direction?

Will the 1" diff drop kit be beneficial if I'm just sticking to the 1.25" lift of the 881 plus the 2" of the 890?

I can't return what I have at this point. So I just need to make sense of it all.

I’ve seen it noted a few places that 890’s are a 2-2.5” Lift spring, but with the factory cone bumpstops installed they’ll put you right at 23” hub to fender, which is considered by most to be 3” of lift. Stock is generally considered 20” hub to fender. If you leave out the cone bump stop, you’ll still see at least 22.5” hub to fender. I ran them with the cone bump stop and with no extra weight in the back they put me right at 23”. If you carry about 150-200 lbs of extra weight, it should put them right at 2” Lift.

I have no experience with the 881’s, but you definitely don’t need a diff drop if they’re only giving 1.25” of lift. Diff drops are a debatable subject in their own right though. Since you’re running them with the adjustable 5100’s up front, you’d want them on the lowest notch to not see more than the advertised 1.25” Lift the 881’s offer. If you want the front level with the rear and 890’s, you’ll definitely have to move the clip up a notch, maybe two.

 

[markinWA]

I’ve seen it noted a few places that 890’s are a 2-2.5” Lift spring, but with the factory cone bumpstops installed they’ll put you right at 23” hub to fender, which is considered by most to be 3” of lift. Stock is generally considered 20” hub to fender. If you leave out the cone bump stop, you’ll still see at least 22.5” hub to fender. I ran them with the cone bump stop and with no extra weight in the back they put me right at 23”. If you carry about 150-200 lbs of extra weight, it should put them right at 2” Lift.

I have no experience with the 881’s, but you definitely don’t need a diff drop if they’re only giving 1.25” of lift. Diff drops are a debatable subject in their own right though. Since you’re running them with the adjustable 5100’s up front, you’d want them on the lowest notch to not see more than the advertised 1.25” Lift the 881’s offer. If you want the front level with the rear and 890’s, you’ll definitely have to move the clip up a notch, maybe two.

Do the notches affect the 5100's range of travel? Like if I keep it on the lowest notch, do I have the most range compared to the highest notch decreasing the range?

Also, what is the benefit of leaving out the cone bump stop vs keeping it in? Is it a good idea to replace with an aftermarket bump stop? I'm assuming the benefit is that it puts a little padding if you bottom out.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Do the notches affect the 5100's range of travel? Like if I keep it on the lowest notch, do I have the most range compared to the highest notch decreasing the range?

Also, what is the benefit of leaving out the cone bump stop vs keeping it in? Is it a good idea to replace with an aftermarket bump stop? I'm assuming the benefit is that it puts a little padding if you bottom out.

Travel remains the same. The ride quality is affected be preloading the spring more, but that is expected. I personally wouldn’t remove the cone bump stop without replacing the frame bump stop with a softer aftermarket one.

 

[Mikeyt]

Just joined and need help on 3" lift

Getting an 02 4wd SR5and want to do a 3" lift
For my budget a Toytec kit seems the way to go. I'm looking at two kits. One is the TTHA 9602 Toytec/Eibach and the other is the BL 9602 Bilsteen/Toytec. Both are about $940 for the whole set up so no difference there. This is the first lift kit I've done and want to get a good street ride since it's mostly gonna be a daily driver. I'm going to put 285/70/17's on it with aftermarket rims that have a (-12) offset so they will stick out about 2" cause I like that wider stance. I'm also going to get the extended front and rear steel brake lines to help. Also thinking about doing a 1" body lift to help keep it from rubbing. Any advice would be helpful. Is this a good combination to go with?

 

[Mikeyt]

Bump

 

[thezentree]

TTHA-9602 gave me 4" of lift and rode like crap. Toytec worked with me and I have a set of boss coilovers and 890s now and I'm happy with them.

 

[violation]

Go with the OME/bilsteins.

This is why. Of course, this is just anecdotal evidence, so take it for what you will.

For the money, I'd go for OME over toytecs. Wish I had done that the first time around.