PTR60-89190 TRD Skid Plate Fitment on SR5

[Danyo]

12/28 update: Reinstalled the member braces and the TRD Skid plate fits fine.

Has anyone installed the latest version PTR60-89190 TRD Skid Plate on a 2016 SR5 model? Read a couple places where others removed the member brace and also chase tapped the rear threads. Without the member brace, it fits perfectly flush with the other skids but the box instructions did not mention to remove it. I did not have any gunk with chase tapping nor was it hard to tighten the longer bolts since it’s open at the top end. Was the chase tap usually done on the member brace holes?

Without member braces:

With member braces:

 

[darrensan]

Also interested about this too

 

[Danyo]

Also interested about this too

Installed the member braces back on. No issues.

 

[bigair96]

Installed the member braces back on. No issues.

Significant difference in fit with and without?

 

[yardsale]

Member braces stay on. The spacers on the front two bolts are designed to go inside the big hole on front of the braces.

 

[cumminsdieselfreak]

12/28 update: Reinstalled the member braces and the TRD Skid plate fits fine.

Has anyone installed the latest version PTR60-89190 TRD Skid Plate on a 2016 SR5 model? Read a couple places where others removed the member brace and also chase tapped the rear threads. Without the member brace, it fits perfectly flush with the other skids but the box instructions did not mention to remove it. I did not have any gunk with chase tapping nor was it hard to tighten the longer bolts since it’s open at the top end. Was the chase tap usually done on the member brace holes?

Without member braces:

With member braces:

Member braces stay on. The spacers on the front two bolts are designed to go inside the big hole on front of the braces.

Was it direct bolt on or did you have to tap?

 

[Danyo]

For my 2016 SR5, direct bolt on. I bought the chaser tap but did not need it. Most likely earlier 5th gen models ran into that issue. No noticeable difference with or without. It fits flush regardless. Most don’t seem to believe it structurally does much but I have seen a point about the tow points load.

 

[Jetboy]

I would leave them if they fit. I have kdss so they had to be removed on mine. The aluminum skid didn't hold up well for me. So I'd keep the extra reinforcement you can. Especially if you intend to use it. My aluminum trd pro skid only lasted a few months before I bent/broke it. I still use it. I bent the trd pro skid sorta straight and cut the front off to use with plow on the winter.

 

[Saker]

I left the supports on mine when I installed it.
I did have to chase the bolt holes as they had trash/rust above the OEM bolt threads.....
Once that was done, it went on without issue.

 

[bigair96]

Swapped it out today, went pretty easily. Used the supplied bolts and all fit well. Ordered a new plastic lower skid valence (the part that fits between the bumper and the OEM skid), so I can trim it to fill the space. I've seen others do it so hopefully can make it look clean. Tried to add some front access points today from Apex Overland but one of the bolts didnt line up, will play with those another day. They are red as well, so should look good with with the red on the skid.

 

[JohnWick]

Two Spacers?

I am running into an issue where the supplied spacers and the existing spacers for sway bar clearance create too much space therefore the supplied front bolts are not long enough? I talked to another member who said get new longer bolts or remove one spacer if you have the clearance for the sway.

Help please!