Pulled engine won't start

[weekendclimber]

I think we need to step back a bit here! Grab the multimeter and start debugging.

- Are you getting a check-engine light when the key is in the "ON" position?
- Are all the rest of the normal warning lights on with key "ON"? (ABS, Airbag, oil pressure, etc.)
- What is the resting battery voltage?
- Are you getting 12V at the starter main power terminal (bolt-on one)?
- Are you getting 12V at the starter trigger wire (smaller one on the connector) with the key in the "START" position?
- Have you checked EVERY fuse? (at this point, pull them and check with the meter for continuity)

-Charlie

This is good advice. I've gone down the rabbit hole with the starter before only to find a bad battery->starter wire connection. You might also want to start by simply cleaning your battery terminals as well. Worth the time just to do for it's own sake.

 

[mforce]

I think we need to step back a bit here! Grab the multimeter and start debugging.

- Are you getting a check-engine light when the key is in the "ON" position?
- Are all the rest of the normal warning lights on with key "ON"? (ABS, Airbag, oil pressure, etc.)
- What is the resting battery voltage?
- Are you getting 12V at the starter main power terminal (bolt-on one)?
- Are you getting 12V at the starter trigger wire (smaller one on the connector) with the key in the "START" position?
- Have you checked EVERY fuse? (at this point, pull them and check with the meter for continuity)

-Charlie

- Are you getting a check-engine light when the key is in the "ON" position? Yes
- Are all the rest of the normal warning lights on with key "ON"? (ABS, Airbag, oil pressure, etc.) Yes
- What is the resting battery voltage? I will check
- Are you getting 12V at the starter main power terminal (bolt-on one)? We have power
- Are you getting 12V at the starter trigger wire (smaller one on the connector) with the key in the "START" position? Not sure how to check this one..
- Have you checked EVERY fuse? (at this point, pull them and check with the meter for continuity) Pulled every fuse to verify that they are not blown but have not checked continuity though

 

[phattyduck]

- Are you getting 12V at the starter trigger wire (smaller one on the connector) with the key in the "START" position? Not sure how to check this one..

You'll need to get a test light or multimeter on the connector. Disconnect the wire from the starter and jam the probe in there, then try to start the truck. (it won't start, obviously) If you get 12V there, the problem is your starter. If you don't, the problem is your wiring.

-Charlie

 

[weekendclimber]

- Are you getting 12V at the starter trigger wire (smaller one on the connector) with the key in the "START" position? Not sure how to check this one..

This is the wire that connects to the plug in the lower right of this image:

Pull the plug out, put a meter on it and have a friend/buddy try to start the engine. It should read 12 volts when trying to turn the engine over. From the previous posts, it sounds like it is not getting anything here since you are not hearing the solenoid click.

 

[mforce]

This is the wire that connects to the plug in the lower right of this image:

Pull the plug out, put a meter on it and have a friend/buddy try to start the engine. It should read 12 volts when trying to turn the engine over. From the previous posts, it sounds like it is not getting anything here since you are not hearing the solenoid click.

When I put my test light on the nut it lit up.

 

[mforce]

And I REALLY appreciate the help. I have done several swaps and this should have been plug and play since all I did was pull the motor and put it right back in. Heck it drove into the garage. LOL

 

[phattyduck]

When I put my test light on the nut it lit up.

We are talking about the small connector below that - the trigger wire that engages the solenoid. It should have 12V while cranking.

The wire with the nut on it should be 12V all the time (the only unfused power wire in the whole truck!).

-Charlie

 

[weekendclimber]

And I REALLY appreciate the help. I have done several swaps and this should have been plug and play since all I did was pull the motor and put it right back in. Heck it drove into the garage. LOL

You bet. We'll help get this sucker started and running! I know I've gotten tons of help from here, so just trying to give back! :hippie:

When I put my test light on the nut it lit up.

That's a good sign as this is the wire that comes directly off the battery. It doesn't necessarily mean it's a good connection, since it's not drawing much current while not turning the starter motor, but at least we know the wire isn't cut/broken.

Pull that plug and test that you get 12 volts when trying to start the engine. It should have no power when you're not trying to start the engine. This is going to test that the starter relay is good in the engine bay fuse box.

 

[Twisted Sid]

Haven't read the whole thread and not sure if it's a manual or auto but, have you checked to make sure its in park/neutral?

 

[TheDurk]

Also, that wiring diagram for the starting and ignition is for a 2002, so it might not be pin 3 and 5. When you use the jumper wire you will hear the click of the solenoid and the starter turning the motor over if everything is in order.

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

The '98 has some differences but not within that red boundary:

 

[mforce]

Haven't read the whole thread and not sure if it's a manual or auto but, have you checked to make sure its in park/neutral?

Yes it is in park and I switch to neutral still nothing.

Pulled starter relay and I get continuity and it clicks when tested.

 

[weekendclimber]

Yes it is in park and I switch to neutral still nothing.

Pulled starter relay and I get continuity and it clicks when tested.

This is the starter relay? Not the start motor? Just want to make sure I'm clear on what it is you're testing. It's a little relay (purple in my previous image) from the engine bay fuse panel and not the starter motor (heavy motor from the bottom back of the engine).

 

[mforce]

This is the starter relay? Not the start motor? Just want to make sure I'm clear on what it is you're testing. It's a little relay (purple in my previous image) from the engine bay fuse panel and not the starter motor (heavy motor from the bottom back of the engine).

Yes, I tested starter relay to see I was bad so I bought a new one. It’s not the starter relay.

 

[weekendclimber]

Yes, I tested starter relay to see I was bad so I bought a new one. It’s not the starter relay.

So, you've got a brand new starter relay now, but when you try to start the vehicle with the key you don't hear a click? Have you tested that the plug on the starter is getting 12 volts when you turn the key to turn the engine over? If you are not hearing the click with the new starter relay, then you've got a break in the wire between the fuse box in the engine bay and the plug on the starter.

Try to see if you're getting 12 volts on the wire to the plug (not the wire with the bolt, but inside the plastic plug) when you turn the key to start the engine.

 

[mforce]

Yes it’s getting 12v and the battery is good I checked that. We are pulling the starter to see if it’s bad. I’ll take it to auto zone and try a reman if it’s bad.

 

[spartacus]

if it has the factory alarm and not just the keyless entry,then this might work.

https://itstillruns.com/reset-alarm-2000-toyota-4runner-7384097.html

 

[mforce]

if it has the factory alarm and not just the keyless entry,then this might work.

How to Reset an Alarm on the 2000 Toyota 4Runner | It Still Runs

I was hoping that was it. I looked all over for that switch. I don’t have a valet switch, it has the normal key fob factory type. I locked the door with it tonight then reached inside windows down, unlocked the door and opened it. No chirp or anything.

 

[weekendclimber]

Yes it’s getting 12v and the battery is good I checked that. We are pulling the starter to see if it’s bad. I’ll take it to auto zone and try a reman if it’s bad.

Yeah, if you're getting 12 volts to that plug when trying to turn it over and there is no click or anything (solenoid plunger making contact) then you have a bad solenoid coil. Have them test at your local auto parts store. That would be the first time I've heard that happen on these Nippon-Denso starters. I would recommend getting a remanned Nippon-Denso not the cheaper remans and keeping your core. Will obviously be more expensive, but it would be good to know if the solenoid coil is the culprit after you get it running and can tear the original apart.

 

[spartacus]

I was hoping that was it. I looked all over for that switch. I don’t have a valet switch, it has the normal key fob factory type. I locked the door with it tonight then reached inside windows down, unlocked the door and opened it. No chirp or anything.

Double check under the driver side dash with a flash light to see if there is aftermarket alarm module or wiring that is spliced into the ignition wires etc. My reasoning being if the starter was functioning well before then the probability that it's bad now is unlikely.

 

[mforce]

Double check under the driver side dash with a flash light to see if there is aftermarket alarm module or wiring that is spliced into the ignition wires etc. My reasoning being if the starter was functioning well before then the probability that it's bad now is unlikely.

It all looks factory under there. I took the kick panel off and looked there as well to see if there was a reset switch. I thought the keyless lock was alarm but it seems to just be a keyless lock that locks/unlocks the doors and rolls down the back window with a panic button on the back of key fob.