Pulling a lighter camper (2500lb or less) this spring -- maintenance

[rhoyneriver]

Hey folks, I bought my 4Runner last year and have only put about 4900 miles on it, so I am about to get the oil changed again. While I'm at it, I was wondering if anyone who pulls behind their 4Runner has some recommended maintenance?

It's only got 64.9k miles, so I was thinking that the ATF fluid should be fine. I can't think of anything else beyond that -- maybe spark plugs? I noticed the service manual recommended changing those at 60k which I didn't do, because that looked like that was for emissions warranty compliance. It could also use an alignment sooner than later, but I was hoping to swap to 17" TRD Pro wheels this summer and I'd rather wait until then to get an alignment done.

I've also got the squeaky sound coming from the rear at really low speeds, I had totally forgotten about it until we finally had one nice day where I had the windows down and I heard it again. That's another thing I would rather wait to get too in depth on until I've swapped the wheels in case it fixes itself. What say you all?

Thanks all!

 

[foldinglemon]

You're probably good on maintenance (other than your scheduled oil change). We never really did any prep for towing our stuff. We would check trailer lights and lube the trailer light socket if it needed it with dielectric grease. Another thing that wasn't really maintenance but more of a setup detail was to make sure the trailer tongue weight was balanced at around 100-200lbs (or somewhere around there). That was with a heavy boat and more of a set it and forget it. Might be different/harder to do with the camper?

We're at 200k miles without changing transmission fluid, but now wishing we did... Other people can chime in on this, but I don't think you need to worry about changing it for several ten thousand miles?

 

[Zeke588]

I feel Like everyone has their own opinion on trans fluid change. Personally I just drain and fill the pan every other year. Or when I feel like it needs it. When you remove the drain plug on the trans pan it only removes about 3.5-4 quarts of fluid, and if I remember correctly I think the system holds 10+? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong! I just like knowing there's some fresh additives flowing around the system.

 

[rhoyneriver]

I feel Like everyone has their own opinion on trans fluid change. Personally I just drain and fill the pan every other year. Or when I feel like it needs it. When you remove the drain plug on the trans pan it only removes about 3.5-4 quarts of fluid, and if I remember correctly I think the system holds 10+? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong! I just like knowing there's some fresh additives flowing around the system.

do you remove the whole pan when you drain it, or just drain with the plug and let the rest remain?

 

[m85476585]

A couple things no one ever told me when I started towing:

• You should grease the ball on the hitch
• Trailer tires should generally be inflated to the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall

 

[RonJR]

Hey folks, I bought my 4Runner last year and have only put about 4900 miles on it, so I am about to get the oil changed again. While I'm at it, I was wondering if anyone who pulls behind their 4Runner has some recommended maintenance?

It's only got 64.9k miles, so I was thinking that the ATF fluid should be fine. I can't think of anything else beyond that -- maybe spark plugs? I noticed the service manual recommended changing those at 60k which I didn't do, because that looked like that was for emissions warranty compliance. It could also use an alignment sooner than later, but I was hoping to swap to 17" TRD Pro wheels this summer and I'd rather wait until then to get an alignment done.

I've also got the squeaky sound coming from the rear at really low speeds, I had totally forgotten about it until we finally had one nice day where I had the windows down and I heard it again. That's another thing I would rather wait to get too in depth on until I've swapped the wheels in case it fixes itself. What say you all?

Thanks all!

V8 or V6?

That's a fairly light trailer, so as others have said, just basic maintenance that you'd do anyway. Make sure your brakes are in good shape. A transmission cooler is a good idea - you may already have one in which case you're good to go. If you have a cooler, you can easily drain and fill through the cooler lines. Search on this forum for "transmission drain and fill using cooler lines".

Add about 5 psi extra to your rear tires, both for the extra weight on them and to stiffen them a bit more for better stability.

If it's a full height camping trailer, a sway control on the hitch would be a good thing to add, especially in windy Kansas. If your trailer has brakes (probably will if it's new), get a good brake controller. Your 4runner probably already has the wiring harness built in that connects to the vehicle brake system, so the controller is a snap to wire in.

It's hard to say about the squeak without more to go on. Hi-pitched or lo-pitched? Does it follow wheel rotation, or is it coming from the suspension when you go over a bump? Try to describe it in as much detail as possible and perhaps someone can help.

 

[rhoyneriver]

V8 or V6?

That's a fairly light trailer, so as others have said, just basic maintenance that you'd do anyway. Make sure your brakes are in good shape. A transmission cooler is a good idea - you may already have one in which case you're good to go. If you have a cooler, you can easily drain and fill through the cooler lines. Search on this forum for "transmission drain and fill using cooler lines".

Add about 5 psi extra to your rear tires, both for the extra weight on them and to stiffen them a bit more for better stability.

If it's a full height camping trailer, a sway control on the hitch would be a good thing to add, especially in windy Kansas. If your trailer has brakes (probably will if it's new), get a good brake controller. Your 4runner probably already has the wiring harness built in that connects to the vehicle brake system, so the controller is a snap to wire in.

It's hard to say about the squeak without more to go on. Hi-pitched or lo-pitched? Does it follow wheel rotation, or is it coming from the suspension when you go over a bump? Try to describe it in as much detail as possible and perhaps someone can help.

Thanks for the tips. I neglected to mention the 2500 lbs is likely the DRY weight, so really it'll be closer to 3300 loaded up. I don't have a trailer yet, I am looking at several 17' hybrid trailers (the hardshells with fold-out beds at front and rear). I will almost definitely be getting a sway control.

I can't look under the hood right now, but I ran the VIN decoder on Toyota's website and it says I have the factory tow hitch which I know is still there. Does that mean I have the tow package and the transmission cooler? I am wondering if you could get a factory tow hitch without the cooler/brake controller.

as for the squeaky sound, it's definitely hitch-pitched and it follows the rotation of the wheels. I initially thought the rear brake calipers were seizing but they have no abnormal wear etc.

 

[m85476585]

Open the hood and you can easily see the transmission cooler in front of the radiator (at least on the V8). All models at least have a transmission cooler circuit in the lower part of the radiator (pretty much all automatic transmission vehicles do), so that will be fine for typical use. Some people have reported that keeping the transmission in the "4" position keeps the transmission temperature cooler while towing.

I think if you have the 7-pin trailer electrical connector that means the vehicle is pre-wired for a brake controller. If it's a 4-pin connector it's probably not. I can't remember what the V6 models come with.

 

[RonJR]

as for the squeaky sound, it's definitely hitch-pitched and it follows the rotation of the wheels. I initially thought the rear brake calipers were seizing but they have no abnormal wear etc.

Sounds like the brake pad wear indicators to me. These are little metal clips that rub on the rotor and squeal when the pads get too thin. Check all of the pads in the rear, inside and out. If it is the wear indicators, you'll want to fix it sooner rather than later, or the clips will eventually score the rotors.

I think the minimum pad thickness is something like 0.060", but I recommend changing them before they get that thin.

 

[Boort]

[MENTION=262417]rhoyneriver[/MENTION]

I've towed my ~3k hard side popup all over and through the Co & Wy mtns, across Ut and NV and up and down the Ca Sierras. I'll second some previous recommendations and add to the existing list:

• As others have said get a trans cooler if you don't have one, 4Runner pkgs differed by region and location so look under her hood in front of the radiator to verify.
  
• Also as others have said: check and possible raise tire pressure.
  
• If turns out that the squeak is breaks and you end up in the market for calipers - consider switching to the larger ones from the Sport Edition if you have the 17" rims. Or do a tundra break swap for a bit larger still if your rims have the clearance. Details an part numbers can be found on this forum 4thGen tech section.
  
• Break controller - check to see if you have the 7 pin tow connector my 06 V8 did, a friend's 06 V6 did not. If you have the V8 with 7pin I can recommend the Tekonsha 90885 Prodigy P2 Electronic Brake Controller with the 3040-P Tekonsha Plug-In Wiring Adapter for Toyota and Lexus from Etrailer.com. Install took 30 mins. Hardest part was locating the correct plug under the drivers foot well to plug in the adapter harness. Check your glove box for a wire with a plug on the end if you've got it then you don't need the adapter but for the cost I got it anyway to simplify the install and avoid wiring. (Etrailer.com was a great source of info when building out my Tacoma, 4Runner, as well as the folks Ford Van and Sequoia for towing. We can pass the controller around between the 4 rigs with a click and are ready to tow with which ever truck we're taking on a given trip.)
  
• Get a way to monitor Trans Fluid temp - I use the Scanguage II with the codes I found on this forum to add that function (along with adding tire pressure monitoring) $150 to monitor the temp is a lot less expensive than a new Trans. (Don't ask how I know ... f*$#!^g Fords....)
  
• Make sure that the trailer tows LEVEL, get the correct receiver hitch and ball for your trailer so that the trailer and truck both ride level. Consider airbags for Rear suspension if the back end droops when loaded and hooked up. Flipping my hitch over lifted the tow ball ~1.5" which made a big difference when towing in the Mountains and rolling hills.

Over all Be safe out there!
Boort

 

[rhoyneriver]

[MENTION=262417]rhoyneriver[/MENTION]

I've towed my ~3k hard side popup all over and through the Co & Wy mtns, across Ut and NV and up and down the Ca Sierras. I'll second some previous recommendations and add to the existing list:

• As others have said get a trans cooler if you don't have one, 4Runner pkgs differed by region and location so look under her hood in front of the radiator to verify.
  
• Also as others have said: check and possible raise tire pressure.
  
• If turns out that the squeak is breaks and you end up in the market for calipers - consider switching to the larger ones from the Sport Edition if you have the 17" rims. Or do a tundra break swap for a bit larger still if your rims have the clearance. Details an part numbers can be found on this forum 4thGen tech section.
  
• Break controller - check to see if you have the 7 pin tow connector my 06 V8 did, a friend's 06 V6 did not. If you have the V8 with 7pin I can recommend the Tekonsha 90885 Prodigy P2 Electronic Brake Controller with the 3040-P Tekonsha Plug-In Wiring Adapter for Toyota and Lexus from Etrailer.com. Install took 30 mins. Hardest part was locating the correct plug under the drivers foot well to plug in the adapter harness. Check your glove box for a wire with a plug on the end if you've got it then you don't need the adapter but for the cost I got it anyway to simplify the install and avoid wiring. (Etrailer.com was a great source of info when building out my Tacoma, 4Runner, as well as the folks Ford Van and Sequoia for towing. We can pass the controller around between the 4 rigs with a click and are ready to tow with which ever truck we're taking on a given trip.)
  
• Get a way to monitor Trans Fluid temp - I use the Scanguage II with the codes I found on this forum to add that function (along with adding tire pressure monitoring) $150 to monitor the temp is a lot less expensive than a new Trans. (Don't ask how I know ... f*$#!^g Fords....)
  
• Make sure that the trailer tows LEVEL, get the correct receiver hitch and ball for your trailer so that the trailer and truck both ride level. Consider airbags for Rear suspension if the back end droops when loaded and hooked up. Flipping my hitch over lifted the tow ball ~1.5" which made a big difference when towing in the Mountains and rolling hills.

Over all Be safe out there!
Boort

Thanks for the info! When you say 3K, do you mean dry weight or loaded up weight? I am guessing loaded up since it's a PUP.

I am going to be sticking to flat roads and 30~ minute trips with very little downshifting needed this summer, so I may try to get by without a trans cooler for now if my trailer is under 3k GVWR. I do think I would want a weight-distribution hitch though.

 

[Boort]

Thanks for the info! When you say 3K, do you mean dry weight or loaded up weight? I am guessing loaded up since it's a PUP.

I am going to be sticking to flat roads and 30~ minute trips with very little downshifting needed this summer, so I may try to get by without a trans cooler for now if my trailer is under 3k GVWR. I do think I would want a weight-distribution hitch though.

~3k is the Loaded weight. The Trailer is a Chalet Aframe, on a heavier frame than original with a lift and AT tires. Not my mods but they seam to work well so far.

I don't have a distributing hitch, was not recommended due to the Trailer being so tall. The Brakes are a must have as far as I'm concerned since most of my miles are in the mtns.

If you're keeping it short and flat you should be fine. I think it was the long haul at hwy speeds the did in the Ford Trans (with the larger trans cooler), I think was fine until we stopped to park the trailer and move some stuff that was in the trailer to the van. In doing so we turned off the engine which stopped the fan likely leading to the trans fluid soaking up the heat with no circulation to cool it off causing the fail when we got back on the Hwy.

Boort