Purchased A 95 4 Runner, 134,000 Mi. V6, Auto-questions

[PYROMATE]

love this 4Runner! I changed the Automatic trans. fluid and transfer case fluid. Found out you have to pump in the transfer case fluid through the fill plug....after you pour in the ATF fluid through the dipstick tube...just couldn't get as much in as came out. Called Carl Malone Toyota in Utah to get info on the ATF change and they said change it if it smells kinda nasty and isn't nice and red, DON'T WORRY...CHANGE IT. I put in a set of Bosch platinum PLUS 4 plugs also. 3 plugs were a real nightmare to change out and I will dread it for sure next time. Also I changed the fuel filter...what a total pain in the ass!! They put ridgid lines to it and there is no give...add to that it is right under a skid plate....definetly dread that next time. WHY would the oil filter be positioned upside down??? Oil runs everywhere when you change the filter and it is impossible to pre-fill the filter before screwing on the new one....DUMB!!
Someone unplugged a sensor. They put a pigtail termination on one the connector...I think it is the knock sensor???? ANYONE KNOW WHICH ONE THIS IS AND WHY THEY WOULD PUT A PIGTAIL ON IT??? It is near the top of the motor, passenger front by the exaust gas recirculation tube, right at the top and easy to get to... if it is the one I think it is....found it costs about $280 to replace...seems to run well even with this wire on the connector.... strange way around buying a new one. The rear electric window only goes down with the console switch...not up. Works fine with the key...must be the switch??? I am very happy with this truck...just was hoping it might be more well designed and a little easeir to do general maintainance on....overall I LOVE IT! Any Comments??

 

[regularguy412]

You likely have an A340H auto tranny. I don't think there's a pump IN the transfer case, but it DOES use fluid (hydraulic pressure) from the tranny. Therefore, the tranny and transfer case cannot be separated. You CAN fill both the tranny and transfer case from the dipstick tube. In fact, that's how the Toyota FSM says to do it! Just get the engine and tranny up to regular operating temp. , put the tranny in park, engine idling, and check fluid level on the dipstick. Add or drain fluid as necessary to obtain a fill height between the two 'full hot' marks. Do not overfill. This can lead to tranny overheating problems. Ask me how I know this.

ERmmm,, You 'may' find that your 92 V6 3.0 doesn't like the Bosch +4's. Mine didn't. Next time you change plugs, use stock NGK plugs. Put a small amount of anti-sieze on the plug threads next time, too. You'll appreciate it on the subsequent change.

Good idea on the fuel filter, even tho Toyota says 'never change it'. They 'do' get clogged over time. The previous owner on mine never changed it in 145,000 miles. Wore out the fuel pump. Those aren't cheap to change.

Don't worry bout filling the filter prior to putting it (new one) on. All the oil drains out of the crank journals every time you shut the motor off for any length of time, anyway.

The knock sensor and its accompanying wire are notorious for being a bit 'fragile'. Your PO probably had to get in under the plenum for an injector / fuel issue and removed the wire in the process. You almost 'always' have to replace the knock sensor and the wire, when you get under there fooling around. The knock sensor doesn't like to move, once it's been put in place the first time.

Get come electric contact cleaner and spray down in and around the switch a good bit. Work the switch with the ignition key OFF. Let it dry ( won't take long). Then try it. If still no good, you may have a bad ground associtated with the switch.

Be sure and check to see if the HG Recall /Replacement has been accomplished. Take the VIN to you local dealer and let them run it. The 3.0 engines from 1988 thru 1995 had Head Gasket problems and Toyota did a repair campaign. Also check to see if the Steering Linkage recall /replacement has been done. You should also get at least a toe-in alignment free from the dealer AFTER they perform this free replacment.

Keep the engine cooling system in good operating order. The 3.0 is known for buring exhaust valves in #5 and #6 cylinders ( nearest the firewall ). This is due to a poor head design and the cross-over exhaust tubing.

I have a 92 3.0 auto also. I love to drive mine, too, even tho it only gets about 14 mpg in town and 21 mpg on the highway.

Welcome to the board!

Mike in AR

 

[PYROMATE]

Time has passed, $$$$ gone in, Learned alot

7 months has gone by since I bought the 95 4 Runner. I have put some money and time in this truck...BUT....I do love it and hope it keeps going strong for me. I replaced/had replaced... shocks, tires, 2 siezed castor bolts before it could be aligned( costly and painful), pitman arm, front swaybar end links/bushings, control arm, upper ball joint...this solved the sterring shimmy...there is more. I learned alot and now it is back to the tailgate window failure. All in all...I am glad I bought this 4 Runner. Learned how to display the trouble codes if the check engine light comes on. Found out what the sensor was that was bypassed(egr sensor). Changed all fluids untill clear and flushed the cooling system. Here in Yellowstone it gets down to minus-60* below zero...no brainer. New windshield....I know there is more...oh yea...sagging rear end needs new springs.....and rusted bumper ends and new grill, clips and headlight housings....should be done then....right..
Thanks for the help on everything guys. PS..got the girl cuz of the truck.....
John In Montana
:bash:

 

[pyrodork]

Re: Time has passed, $$$$ gone in, Learned alot

hello, pyromate. i'm pyrodork.

PS..got the girl cuz of the truck.....
John In Montana
:bash:

is that icon supposed to represent how you feel about this girl?

 

[PYROMATE]

ICON

No.....That ICON represents me..smashing my own head in for going too fast around earthquake lake last week on snowpacked roads. I had a deer run into the passenger door...it cost me $$$$1400.00 to fix it. :happens: Otherwise....I have this 4Runner almost restored to where I can just drive it.....instead of dumping money into it with a front end loader. Still have the girl......

 

[pyrodork]

ouch! sorry to hear about that.

the icon would accurately represent how i feel with my girlfriend, though... of course, i'm the one on the left.

i've driven through montana a few times and i just cant imagine snow there. i would, however, LOVE to purchase some acreage out in the beautiful, rocky areas for a personal, private "get away from it all" resort for myself. that would be so sweet...

 

[giro]

The rear electric window only goes down with the console switch...not up. Works fine with the key...must be the switch???

By "works fine with the key", do you mean with the engine on or just that the front switch works when it's enabled with the key in the aux position?

You need to figure out if it's just the switch, or if it's the relay that the switch controls. It sounds like a lot of people have had problems with the relay itself, as I did.

On my '92 4runner, the tailgate window stopped going up intermittedly. I could normally get it to eventually work, until one time we were headed out on a trip up to Yosemite, and it was raining and would be snowing. We packed up the truck with our gear, and then couldn't get the window up. It eventually went up, but that was the turning point to take it from an annoying issue to something that I needed to fix.

It turned out that once the truck was started (and possibly put into reverse, though it's a 5sp), both switches worked (tested the rear one with a spare key). My guess is that the relay was failing and just needed a little more juice, or that something was being reset when starting the truck.

I called a couple dealers who wanted $425-$475 for just the relay box, and a junkyard who wanted $250. I ended up getting a used one off of ebay for around $110 shipped from a guy in Canada.

Another option is to just replace the relay that is bad. it sounds like this is a common problem, and I would have replaced the relay if I didn't find one for a decent price. I might still, so that I have a working backup or I can sell the spare.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/RearWindow.shtml#RelayRepair has steps and info on this, though the relay board shown is slightly different than mine. I looked at RadioShack for spare relays at the time, but the local shop didn't have the right parts. The above link has the exact part number, so that should help a bit.

Let me know if you need more info. I think I have another link to similar info around here somewhere, but it must be in a different bookmark file.

 

[PYROMATE]

Old Thread/ New Information...Learned Alot

Hey...that "Rear Window" thread is so way old....Many things have transpired since then. I had a "mysterious" coolant leak...feared it was the head gaskets...not so. It was the #2 Idler Pulley To Intake Manifold Sealant...there is a Timing Belt Idler Pulley(#2) that has a coolant passage that seals against the Intake Manifold...without a gasket. You MUST use A SPECIAL SEALANT to prevent leakage.

I have recently replaced the following on this 95 V-6 4Runner:
Cam and Crank Seals (3)
Water Pump/Gasket
#1 and #2 Timing Belt Idler Pulleys
Timing Belt Tensioner
Timing belt
Timing Cover Gaskets(3)
Drive Belts (3)
Radiator Hoses (2)
Oil Cooler Hoses(2)
Thermostat/Gasket
Distributer Cap
Rotor
Factory Plug Wire Assembly
Speedometer Cable
Gauge Cluster Cover
Front Bump Stops
Front Spindle Bushings (Had This Done)

I learned some good tricks of the trade during this hellish re-build...but the motor has no leaks and runs great! If i can help you guys with information on any of these repairs....just ask.

......there is more.....:girl: