Time for a new torque wrench. I had a 1/2" drive TEKTON which I forgot to unwind for 2 years and it is no longer working. Looking at the Precision Instruments split beam but don't know if I should get a 1/2" drive or 3/8" drive. Will only or mostly be using on my T4R. Suspension and wheels. Any thoughts about drive size?
Purchasing New Torque wrench 1/2" or 3/8"
- Thread starter hallcs
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jawkdna
New member
The correct answer is both.
But if you had to get just one I might say 3/8ths, over all it is the most useful.
But in your case of "Suspension and wheels" I might say 1/2"
but ask yourself what is the largest bolt size I will be needing to torque and what is the smallest. Find the range and most likely you will find your answer...
But if you had to get just one I might say 3/8ths, over all it is the most useful.
But in your case of "Suspension and wheels" I might say 1/2"
but ask yourself what is the largest bolt size I will be needing to torque and what is the smallest. Find the range and most likely you will find your answer...
Whippersnapper02
Senior Member
^^^I has going to mention both.
I'm a bit of a Cornwell fanboy but will run anything with a metal locking collar. I've broken 2 Craftman plastic locking wrenches in my weekend mechanic years.
I'm a bit of a Cornwell fanboy but will run anything with a metal locking collar. I've broken 2 Craftman plastic locking wrenches in my weekend mechanic years.
Thanks
Thanks, I looked at my sockets, my 3/8" drive only go up to 18mm and I know I'll need to torque 19 and 21 on the suspension and wheels Would like to get both but will start with the 1/2" drive
Thanks, I looked at my sockets, my 3/8" drive only go up to 18mm and I know I'll need to torque 19 and 21 on the suspension and wheels Would like to get both but will start with the 1/2" drive
Cheers!
Member
make sure you buy one with a calibration cert that is traceable. I have no qualms about cheap tools, but measuring tools need to be nice and reliable. I ruined expensive parts with harbor frieght / princess auto torque wrenches in my youth when I didn't have any money. The torque wrenches fail to click and next thing you know the bolt snaps.
jbtvt
New member
You can always torque higher with a smaller wrench by using the angle, I did for years before buying a bigger wrench - Crankshaft bolt "wrench" 3VZE - YotaTech Forums
daytonaviolet
New member
Both
Craftsman as gotten to be trash, made in China in the last few years, especially after Lowes bought the brand. I have a Craftsman torque wrench that is about 40 or 50 years old with a metal locking collar. It has never given me problems.
I vote with "both" too, but if you can only afford one good one, go with the 1/2". Quite often I need to torque to 150 ft-lbs which is beyond the capability of a 3/8".
Mike Beyers
New member
Just one? Get the 1/2". I actually have a 1/2" and a 1/4" because I've found that its usually really big bolts and really small bolts have needed critical torque values.
zoomzoom
New member
Take a look at the torque setting on the wrenches and see which one fits your requirements. For tires, I'd say 1/2" will be within your range. I have both 3/8 and 1/2 and they're useful for different torque ranges. Also, 1/2 has longer handle so you have more leverage when working on bolts. It would be hard to use 1/2 wrench inside engine bay and that's where the shorter 3/8 comes in handy for physical space constraint - also as mentioned 3/8 usually is more inline with torque range for engine work. Hope this helps.
Tuco S.
New member
If you only want to buy 1, spend a little extra for a good quality 1/2. It should have a higher range capability than a 3/8. You can always buy a 1/2 to 3/8 conversion if most of your ratchets are 3/8. May as well get a 3/8 to 1/2 while you're at it.
Personally I would get one of each, and get a beam style for the 3/8. I think those are less prone to going out of calibration, so you can always use it to do a sanity check on the 1/2.
Personally I would get one of each, and get a beam style for the 3/8. I think those are less prone to going out of calibration, so you can always use it to do a sanity check on the 1/2.
I found this helpful -> Full List of Suspension Torque Specs For the 5th Gen 4Runner In addition to the torque specs, it also recommends which torque wrench to buy first if you could only invest in one.
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kenwilliams0803
New member
This. Well actually all 3. Start with a 1/2 drive that goes to 250, then get yourself a 3/8" later.
And don't forget a 1/4" that does inch lbs. too!
My favorite saying is that all tools pay for themselves eventually.
3kushn
Member
To the OP, I'd consider a different brand. Its been my experience with PI wrenches is that they're just fine, normally, out of the box but when it comes time for calibration, they're a bear. There's something in the design that confuses many torque testers. I'm speculating the beams rub each other causing unwanted feedback and erroneous errors.
The tool is slightly more bulky than most click style wrenches too. May have trouble in tight areas. A flex head ratchet might sound convenient but when in a flexed position you've effectively changed the length. Cosine error.
A beam wrench was mentioned earlier. These are great and accurate tools (if you get a good one) and my favorite, but only because of the craftsmanship required to make one. Lots of hand custom work by real artists. The main problems is they're also bulky and 2 there's a parallax problem. Your eyes need to be right over the top of the scale to get an accurate reading. Although they normally come with a follower needle to tell you where you ended up, torque is a dynamic reading. In other words the fastener needs to be in motion to determine installation torque. Bad idea to double click your fasteners. If the fastener doesn't move a double click tells you nothing. If the fastener moves then you've changed the torque but really don't have any idea what that torque is, when using a click wrench.
If money were no object, I'd select a wrench with interchangeable heads. First purchase would be the wrench with a ratchet head attachment. Down the road or if you know some sizes you'll definitely be using, take a close look at those applications and decide if a box end attachment or open end wrench attachment should be used or maybe is more convenient than a ratchet head with a socket.
Decent Brands:
CDI
Belknap
Sturtevant Richmont
Tohnichi
The tool is slightly more bulky than most click style wrenches too. May have trouble in tight areas. A flex head ratchet might sound convenient but when in a flexed position you've effectively changed the length. Cosine error.
A beam wrench was mentioned earlier. These are great and accurate tools (if you get a good one) and my favorite, but only because of the craftsmanship required to make one. Lots of hand custom work by real artists. The main problems is they're also bulky and 2 there's a parallax problem. Your eyes need to be right over the top of the scale to get an accurate reading. Although they normally come with a follower needle to tell you where you ended up, torque is a dynamic reading. In other words the fastener needs to be in motion to determine installation torque. Bad idea to double click your fasteners. If the fastener doesn't move a double click tells you nothing. If the fastener moves then you've changed the torque but really don't have any idea what that torque is, when using a click wrench.
If money were no object, I'd select a wrench with interchangeable heads. First purchase would be the wrench with a ratchet head attachment. Down the road or if you know some sizes you'll definitely be using, take a close look at those applications and decide if a box end attachment or open end wrench attachment should be used or maybe is more convenient than a ratchet head with a socket.
Decent Brands:
CDI
Belknap
Sturtevant Richmont
Tohnichi
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