psraff
New member
What size are those tires? Over the years, I've checked for 315/75-16s and never seen them have them. Maybe a dozen times and been sold out every time.
Those are Treadwrights, correct?
Puttster's 2002 Sport Edition
- Thread starter puttster
- Start date
What size are those tires? Over the years, I've checked for 315/75-16s and never seen them have them. Maybe a dozen times and been sold out every time.
Those are Treadwrights, correct?
Well I've had strep throat recently so the only install I've gotten around to is the Washer Box Relocation Kit from Sonoran Steel. This kit allows you to relocate your (hefty) windshield washer reservoir from your passenger side wheel to in front of your air filter, so you don't rip it out if you're running larger tires (thanks Ripcord for the heads up). Sonoran Steel wasn't messing around when they said it's a tight fit. Seriously DON'T TRY TO INSTALL THIS WITH DECKPLATE MOD. The install is easy: just rip everything out, stuff everything through the engine bay, and cram everything back in. Both Sonoran Steel and Ripcord have pretty good instructions on installing this kit, it should take under 30 minutes.
Here it is installed (yeah my engine bay is dirty I know, I need to clean it):
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/36157112322/in/dateposted-public/" title="Resevoir"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/36157112322_73a716ae42_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Resevoir"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Here it is installed (yeah my engine bay is dirty I know, I need to clean it):
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/36157112322/in/dateposted-public/" title="Resevoir"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/36157112322_73a716ae42_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="Resevoir"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Suspension
Alright everyone, sorry for the wait, but I finally got around to installing all of the goodies I bought. For those of you wondering, here are the parts I got with prices and links to where I bought them. OEM parts (like ball joints) will be soon. These are just aftermarket.
Body:
$169.99 - Toytec 2 Inch Body Lift (don't judge, I wanted to clear 315s easily)
Front:
$992.52 - King Performance Series Coilovers
$30.99 - Toytec Differential Drop Kit
Rear:
$199.99 - Toytec Superflex Rear Coils
$209.99 - Toytec Boss Shocks
$49.99 - Toytec Panhard Drop Kit
$69.99 - Toytec 3" Bump Stop Drop Spacers
$74.99 - Toytec Stainless Steel Extended Rear Brake Lines
I emailed Toytec, and since it was a pretty big order, they gave me a nice discount! It never hurts to talk to people. Also if you're doing Kings, order from Downsouth Motorsports. They have great customer service and you get a discount for being a Tacoma World Member.
Alright everyone, sorry for the wait, but I finally got around to installing all of the goodies I bought. For those of you wondering, here are the parts I got with prices and links to where I bought them. OEM parts (like ball joints) will be soon. These are just aftermarket.
Body:
$169.99 - Toytec 2 Inch Body Lift (don't judge, I wanted to clear 315s easily)
Front:
$992.52 - King Performance Series Coilovers
$30.99 - Toytec Differential Drop Kit
Rear:
$199.99 - Toytec Superflex Rear Coils
$209.99 - Toytec Boss Shocks
$49.99 - Toytec Panhard Drop Kit
$69.99 - Toytec 3" Bump Stop Drop Spacers
$74.99 - Toytec Stainless Steel Extended Rear Brake Lines
I emailed Toytec, and since it was a pretty big order, they gave me a nice discount! It never hurts to talk to people. Also if you're doing Kings, order from Downsouth Motorsports. They have great customer service and you get a discount for being a Tacoma World Member.
Suspension Install
Like most things on these rigs, there are many better write ups on installing suspension out there. I'll just adding some pictures and comments of my install.
Body Lift:
I started with the body lift because it's probably the easiest of everything. I forgot to take a lot of pictures on this one, but it's pretty easy to figure out. For prep work, I removed my lower radiator fan shroud (a few easy clips), my rag joint/steering shaft bolts, my front bumper, and I loosened my transmission linkage (which is under a plastic cover, and you only have to do this on automatic models). Might've not all been necessary but I didn't want to risk taking any shortcuts. After that, locate the 5 body mounts on one side and take em off. I was pretty disappointed in Toyota while doing this, because the bolts have a really shallow head, so the socket loves to slip off (which can get frustrating while soloing it). After that, LOOSEN BUT DON'T REMOVE the other side's body mount bolts, so there's no major tension on them when jacking. After that, jack on the pinch weld with a 2X4 to distribute the load evenly, throw the pucks in, and throw in the new bolts (then do the other side). You'll need to reuse the washers from the old bolts, so I put the bolts head down in a big socket and hammered on top.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758531084/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2436-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4364/35758531084_11d10a20cf_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2436-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Rear:
Next up, rear suspension. I did this and the front with my buddy Will, who has nicer tools than me.
First, chock wheels, make sure your e-brake is off, jack on rear dif, throw some jack stands on the frame, then remove the wheels and the brake line bracket on the dif.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758530794/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2442-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4394/35758530794_369c1a2986_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2442-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758530384/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2444-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4363/35758530384_1d30b34b3f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2444-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Next up is removing the shocks and springs. First, take those sway bar links off. If you plan on throwing away your old shocks, save yourself some time and cut the bottom part of the shock boot off (so the shaft is exposed), and throw some vice grips on the shaft, because the shock loves to spin while it's being removed. Alternatively you can wrap a strap wrench around the shock body, but I didn't have one on me. Remove the bottom/top bolts, and it'll come right out. For the coils, just jack until there's enough droop that they'll just come out, but keep an eye on all your lines to make sure nothing is being too stressed.
The mandatory old/new pic:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758529974/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2445-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/35758529974_8f4c4e5cb5_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2445-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Shocks and spring out:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/36425522012/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2446-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/36425522012_758b42e1cf_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2446-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Here comes the fun part. To put the new springs in, try jacking on the opposite side of the axle and having a buddy push down on your side while you put the springs in. If they're simply too big (like the Superflex coils were in my case) or you're too weak (no shame), go up to Advance Auto Parts and rent some finger traps (spring compressors). DON'T USE AN IMPACT ON THESE. Make sure the cone (don't know the actual name) is in at the top, compress your spring just enough to fit it in, and when it's in, make sure it's seated properly before taking the compressors off. Shocks are easy, just bolt 'em in.
In with the help of death traps:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758529414/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2447-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/35758529414_0a7de47b7d_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2447-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
After the compressors are off:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758529274/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2448-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/35758529274_b41bcf7e38_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2448-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Next is the panhard bar drop bracket. Jack up your axle until the bolt at the top of the panhard bar is easy to remove, and remove it. We weren't sure at what angle to position the drop bracket, so we called Toytec and their words were "straight down." Slide the bolt through the top (but not the nut because the nylon locker will melt) and weld her on!
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758528064/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2458-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4375/35758528064_9e68344219_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2458-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758528544/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2454-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4386/35758528544_fb80c26441_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2454-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Dimes!
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758527634/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2463-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/35758527634_b4f3482a2b_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2463-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Painted:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758527344/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2466-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4430/35758527344_730b9c08f0_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2466-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Because I didn't want my tires ramming through my fender, I bought some bump stop spacers. I would've gone with the junkyard ones, but I've heard they're not reliable. Just take the bolt out, line them up, and use the new hardware to bolt them in WITH THE TOYTEC FACING OUTWARDS.
Everything done in the rear:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/36425520412/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2469-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4441/36425520412_826fa6c92a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2469-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Sitting a little raked because we didn't have time to do front today.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758526734/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2472-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/35758526734_4499a8d959_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2472-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Rear's still compressed a little bit because of these puppies though:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758526414/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2475-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/35758526414_deb8c31994_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2475-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Like most things on these rigs, there are many better write ups on installing suspension out there. I'll just adding some pictures and comments of my install.
Body Lift:
I started with the body lift because it's probably the easiest of everything. I forgot to take a lot of pictures on this one, but it's pretty easy to figure out. For prep work, I removed my lower radiator fan shroud (a few easy clips), my rag joint/steering shaft bolts, my front bumper, and I loosened my transmission linkage (which is under a plastic cover, and you only have to do this on automatic models). Might've not all been necessary but I didn't want to risk taking any shortcuts. After that, locate the 5 body mounts on one side and take em off. I was pretty disappointed in Toyota while doing this, because the bolts have a really shallow head, so the socket loves to slip off (which can get frustrating while soloing it). After that, LOOSEN BUT DON'T REMOVE the other side's body mount bolts, so there's no major tension on them when jacking. After that, jack on the pinch weld with a 2X4 to distribute the load evenly, throw the pucks in, and throw in the new bolts (then do the other side). You'll need to reuse the washers from the old bolts, so I put the bolts head down in a big socket and hammered on top.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758531084/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2436-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4364/35758531084_11d10a20cf_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2436-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Rear:
Next up, rear suspension. I did this and the front with my buddy Will, who has nicer tools than me.
First, chock wheels, make sure your e-brake is off, jack on rear dif, throw some jack stands on the frame, then remove the wheels and the brake line bracket on the dif.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758530794/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2442-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4394/35758530794_369c1a2986_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2442-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758530384/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2444-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4363/35758530384_1d30b34b3f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2444-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Next up is removing the shocks and springs. First, take those sway bar links off. If you plan on throwing away your old shocks, save yourself some time and cut the bottom part of the shock boot off (so the shaft is exposed), and throw some vice grips on the shaft, because the shock loves to spin while it's being removed. Alternatively you can wrap a strap wrench around the shock body, but I didn't have one on me. Remove the bottom/top bolts, and it'll come right out. For the coils, just jack until there's enough droop that they'll just come out, but keep an eye on all your lines to make sure nothing is being too stressed.
The mandatory old/new pic:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758529974/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2445-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/35758529974_8f4c4e5cb5_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2445-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Shocks and spring out:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/36425522012/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2446-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/36425522012_758b42e1cf_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2446-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Here comes the fun part. To put the new springs in, try jacking on the opposite side of the axle and having a buddy push down on your side while you put the springs in. If they're simply too big (like the Superflex coils were in my case) or you're too weak (no shame), go up to Advance Auto Parts and rent some finger traps (spring compressors). DON'T USE AN IMPACT ON THESE. Make sure the cone (don't know the actual name) is in at the top, compress your spring just enough to fit it in, and when it's in, make sure it's seated properly before taking the compressors off. Shocks are easy, just bolt 'em in.
In with the help of death traps:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758529414/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2447-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/35758529414_0a7de47b7d_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2447-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
After the compressors are off:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758529274/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2448-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/35758529274_b41bcf7e38_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2448-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Next is the panhard bar drop bracket. Jack up your axle until the bolt at the top of the panhard bar is easy to remove, and remove it. We weren't sure at what angle to position the drop bracket, so we called Toytec and their words were "straight down." Slide the bolt through the top (but not the nut because the nylon locker will melt) and weld her on!
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758528064/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2458-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4375/35758528064_9e68344219_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2458-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758528544/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2454-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4386/35758528544_fb80c26441_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2454-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Dimes!
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758527634/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2463-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/35758527634_b4f3482a2b_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2463-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Painted:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758527344/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2466-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4430/35758527344_730b9c08f0_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2466-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Because I didn't want my tires ramming through my fender, I bought some bump stop spacers. I would've gone with the junkyard ones, but I've heard they're not reliable. Just take the bolt out, line them up, and use the new hardware to bolt them in WITH THE TOYTEC FACING OUTWARDS.
Everything done in the rear:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/36425520412/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2469-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4441/36425520412_826fa6c92a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2469-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Sitting a little raked because we didn't have time to do front today.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758526734/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2472-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/35758526734_4499a8d959_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2472-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Rear's still compressed a little bit because of these puppies though:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758526414/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2475-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/35758526414_deb8c31994_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2475-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Last edited:
Suspension Install (continued)
Front:
Next up, it's time for the front. Chock wheels, jack, wheels off. Then remove the lower strut bolt and the three smaller bolts holding in the shock up top. To fit the new shocks in, you're gonna have to be pretty strong or use tools to your advantage. Since I weigh 135 pounds, I took the tools route. First, position it correctly, slide the top in, and tighten the 3 bolts by hand. To get the bottom in, whip out the ol' bottle jack from under your seats and position it so the bottom is on your fender well and the jack part is on your UCA. When it's flexed enough, slip in the lower strut bolt (remember it goes from rear to front) and thread the nut on. Take the jack out, tighten everything down to factory specs, and bam.
Love the way these guys look
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758525974/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2476-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/35758525974_768fa157ef_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2476-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Next up is the diff drop. This isn't reaally necessary but I didn't do it last time and tore my cv boots within a week. First take off your front two skids (NOT including the ugly sport skid). Then throw a jack under the diff and remove the two very long bolts. Let the jack off a little (yes I just said jack off), throw in the spacers, and install the new bolts. Then reinstall the skids with the new hardware.
All done up front!
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/36509983435/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2485"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4390/36509983435_3ee7623c7a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2485"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/36463547716/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2481"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4369/36463547716_33d673cc52_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2481"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Front:
Next up, it's time for the front. Chock wheels, jack, wheels off. Then remove the lower strut bolt and the three smaller bolts holding in the shock up top. To fit the new shocks in, you're gonna have to be pretty strong or use tools to your advantage. Since I weigh 135 pounds, I took the tools route. First, position it correctly, slide the top in, and tighten the 3 bolts by hand. To get the bottom in, whip out the ol' bottle jack from under your seats and position it so the bottom is on your fender well and the jack part is on your UCA. When it's flexed enough, slip in the lower strut bolt (remember it goes from rear to front) and thread the nut on. Take the jack out, tighten everything down to factory specs, and bam.
Love the way these guys look
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758525974/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2476-2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/35758525974_768fa157ef_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2476-2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Next up is the diff drop. This isn't reaally necessary but I didn't do it last time and tore my cv boots within a week. First take off your front two skids (NOT including the ugly sport skid). Then throw a jack under the diff and remove the two very long bolts. Let the jack off a little (yes I just said jack off), throw in the spacers, and install the new bolts. Then reinstall the skids with the new hardware.
All done up front!
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Accident
Haven't posted for a while because I'm still trying to figure everything out. On the drive back from installing my Kings, someone in a camry swerved into me and 2 other cars, totaling mine. Depending on what insurance says, I might have to let her go into 4Runner heaven. Hopefully that won't be the case.
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Haven't posted for a while because I'm still trying to figure everything out. On the drive back from installing my Kings, someone in a camry swerved into me and 2 other cars, totaling mine. Depending on what insurance says, I might have to let her go into 4Runner heaven. Hopefully that won't be the case.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35784662663/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_1755"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4369/35784662663_ae8a3aa1dc_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_1755"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758525524/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_1750"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/35758525524_5f6d1b2a0c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_1750"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/35758524904/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_1753"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/35758524904_ebe452a3e6_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_1753"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156616674@N04/36509979845/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_2495"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4427/36509979845_f70efc3e1b_b.jpg" width="1024" height="678" alt="DSC_2495"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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Last edited:
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
Awe man! [emoji24]
So lame to see this.
Hope you get adequately compensated without a bunch of headache [emoji1317]
So lame to see this.
Hope you get adequately compensated without a bunch of headache [emoji1317]
ToyotaBrah
Member
I'm real sorry to hear about the accident. You had a solid build going.
I just noticed yours doesn't have a sunroof or the rear spoiler either. Pretty rare to see that.
If there's anything I've learned from insurance, it's that they are inherently ruthless, and to get anywhere with them, you have to put up a fight. They are in the business to make more money and to pay you less. Don't be surprised if they value your clean rust-free 4Runner off of neglected, beat up ones to cut you a check.
My advice; be proactive and start compiling a list of ones comparable to yours for sale in your state to show a more accurate value.
I just noticed yours doesn't have a sunroof or the rear spoiler either. Pretty rare to see that.
If there's anything I've learned from insurance, it's that they are inherently ruthless, and to get anywhere with them, you have to put up a fight. They are in the business to make more money and to pay you less. Don't be surprised if they value your clean rust-free 4Runner off of neglected, beat up ones to cut you a check.
My advice; be proactive and start compiling a list of ones comparable to yours for sale in your state to show a more accurate value.
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phattyduck
Elite Member
That is 100% totaled, sadly. Even if they value your truck at 10k.
It is still up to you whether you want to buy it back and rebuild it. At least your front bumper is still in perfect shape. :sobbing:
-Charlie
It is still up to you whether you want to buy it back and rebuild it. At least your front bumper is still in perfect shape. :sobbing:
-Charlie
No!!!!!! So sorry that happened to you
Thanks for the support/advice everyone. Seeing how much I love this rig, I've decided to not let this slow me down. Hopefully if I do the labor myself, I'll have enough money from insurance to bring it back to its former glory and maybe even better. I'm not gonna give up on this thing that easy.
Update
UPDATE:
In case you're blind, the rig is totaled. To be able to drive again here's what I need: cv axle, hub, bearing, soft lines, hard lines, uca, lca, spindle, brakes, lbj, and outer tie rod. I've decided that I might as well do aftermarket UCAs (breaking the bank and going Total Chaos) and tundra brakes while I'm at it. Also I'll be doing the bearings/lbj's on both sides for maintenance purposes.
UPDATE:
In case you're blind, the rig is totaled. To be able to drive again here's what I need: cv axle, hub, bearing, soft lines, hard lines, uca, lca, spindle, brakes, lbj, and outer tie rod. I've decided that I might as well do aftermarket UCAs (breaking the bank and going Total Chaos) and tundra brakes while I'm at it. Also I'll be doing the bearings/lbj's on both sides for maintenance purposes.
Thanks, I hope so too. I just want to wheel!
