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Ah. Thanks for taking the time.
And that mark is the same on the other gear? In other words, two dots to two dots?
puzzler after installing new head gaskets
- Thread starter roscoe67
- Start date
Ah. Thanks for taking the time.
And that mark is the same on the other gear? In other words, two dots to two dots?
19963.4lsr5
New member
I replaced the front cylinder head on our cheap Highlander (burnt valve, got the car for cheap, and used a cheap junkyard head) with a V6, and it has the same thing going on with the LH/RH heads. Only on a transverse engine... which one is LH and which one was RH? LOL, I checked, double-checked, triple-checked that.
Then I had some minor issues with the timing belt - used the stripes on the belt to align it, double-checked the hard marks after releasing the tensioner and turning the motor around twice... everything was off a bit, like a tooth or so. So I reset the tensioner, did the belt again, making SURE everything was lined up on those stripes, released the tensioner, and SAME THING. Very slowly it dawned on me I was putting the belt on 'backwards'. Stripes are close enough that it doesn't raise alarm bells while installing it (because the slack is in random spots).
Then I had some minor issues with the timing belt - used the stripes on the belt to align it, double-checked the hard marks after releasing the tensioner and turning the motor around twice... everything was off a bit, like a tooth or so. So I reset the tensioner, did the belt again, making SURE everything was lined up on those stripes, released the tensioner, and SAME THING. Very slowly it dawned on me I was putting the belt on 'backwards'. Stripes are close enough that it doesn't raise alarm bells while installing it (because the slack is in random spots).
Just as a follow-up, since I started the thread. I pulled both valve covers and, sure enough, the driver's side camshafts were misaligned. Since I hadn't known about the two dots, I had aligned a single dot to two dots. I realigned it, and now it runs like brand new! Here's to non-interference motors!
But just as a follow-up on the pairs of dots. On mine (1997), on the passenger (right) side, when the two dots are aligned, that means the single dots will also align when they rotate around. Also, when the two dots are aligned, it is not at TDC. In fact, the camshaft gear is 180 out at that point. When the single dots are aligned, it is at TDC. I am not sure why the service manual emphasizes aligning the two dot pairs, since that also means the single dot pairs will align, and it is simpler to align the single dots at TDC. Perhaps it is more of a pain because of compressing valve springs?
Anyway, many thanks to the forum! You got me back on the road!
But just as a follow-up on the pairs of dots. On mine (1997), on the passenger (right) side, when the two dots are aligned, that means the single dots will also align when they rotate around. Also, when the two dots are aligned, it is not at TDC. In fact, the camshaft gear is 180 out at that point. When the single dots are aligned, it is at TDC. I am not sure why the service manual emphasizes aligning the two dot pairs, since that also means the single dot pairs will align, and it is simpler to align the single dots at TDC. Perhaps it is more of a pain because of compressing valve springs?
Anyway, many thanks to the forum! You got me back on the road!
I'm glad to hear you figured it out! I would assume it's that way for timing purposes. Doesn't it tell you to align the 2 dots together on the right head and single dots together on the left head?
19963.4lsr5
New member
The service manual says too do that. I posted clips of it above.
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Right - I was anticipating doing just that, but since I didn't want too have to remove the timing belt, I put it at TDC (crank and camshafts) before opening it up. Upon pulling the valve covers, lo and behold, the single dots were together on the passenger (right) side also. I put a bar on the crank bolt and rotated it around by hand, and when the two dots were together it was 180 out. I am not sure why the service manual says to do it that way.
My error was on the driver's side, putting two dots to one. Doh! Anyway, since the intake camshafts were timed, I just had to remove the driver's side exhaust camshaft and reinstall it correctly: one dot to one dot. It didn't take long at all.
Thanks again to all for all the help!
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
You got it right. If you notice when you put the intake cam in, there's a spot where it will sit without compressing any valves. The easiest way to put the exhaust cam in is to have this done to the intake cam, bolt it down and look at which dot is facing up. Simply place the exhaust cam on the gear so the dots align then "roll" it down into its slot in the head. You can then bolt it down and turn the engine over a bit and the dots will line up perfect, every time. I had to do a few camshaft switcheroos with my performance cams and this is by far the easiest way to line them up perfectly.
Another tip is to find the dots on the one side and PAINT THEM ON THE OTHER SIDE YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE! Hear that Toyota??? That's probably one of their only blunders on the 5VZ-FE engine. They must have built the engine facing the other way in the factory or something because the dots are stupid hard to see.
Also, someone else was asking if you can accidentally put the wrong camshafts in the wrong side of the head. The answer is no. You may get two in but once you get to the other side they will be too long and you'll realize the mistake before you can finish.
carlsonb123
New member
exhaust cam won’t mesh with intake cam
I got both cams in on the passengers side, but on the drivers side, when I put in the exhaust cam and rotate the intake cam to get it to seat fully, the gears will start to mesh, and then it’s as if the teeth aren’t large enough, or there’s not enough room and I can’t rotate the intake cam anymore. on the other side I just rotated the intake and the exhaust cam seated properly. Any ideas??
I got both cams in on the passengers side, but on the drivers side, when I put in the exhaust cam and rotate the intake cam to get it to seat fully, the gears will start to mesh, and then it’s as if the teeth aren’t large enough, or there’s not enough room and I can’t rotate the intake cam anymore. on the other side I just rotated the intake and the exhaust cam seated properly. Any ideas??
Having a somewhat similar issue after new heads
Hello. I apologize in advance for hijacking a thread, but it states I have to reply a fee times before I can post.
Heads cracked on my 2k SR5 with the 3.4.
Started in June, got thr new heads in August.
I have a factory service manual and have been using that as a guide.
Work that was done:
New heads and cams
New front and rear O2 sensors
New NGK coils.
New plugs, double electrode platinum
Got her back together, it starts right up and sounds great. However, as soon as you give it any gas, it stalls for a second. Then will make almost a popping sound and then slowly struggle to build rpms. This is at full throttle.
1/4-3/4 throttle trying to flutter the throttle will make it run worse, and the rpms just stager around. Letting off the throttle it returns to idle and sounds fine.
There is no CEL turning on.
I dont have a scanner or a code reader but willing to get one. Especially if it can store codes with out turning the CEL on. A real time reader would be preffered.
Checked the ohms on the TPS. They fall with in range according to the SM. Albeit both values on the lowest side of the ranges.
Ohms look good on the MAF as well. Could not obtain much of a reading for the voltage test.
Wires to the drivers side bank are attached to the correct coil pack.
Cam installation went smooth accorded the SM using the 1 dot on one side, two dots on the other. Cam to crank timing appeared to be spot on, after checking a few revolutions by hand.
Seems as if its being starved for fuel
If anyone has ideas on where to start looking, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Hello. I apologize in advance for hijacking a thread, but it states I have to reply a fee times before I can post.
Heads cracked on my 2k SR5 with the 3.4.
Started in June, got thr new heads in August.
I have a factory service manual and have been using that as a guide.
Work that was done:
New heads and cams
New front and rear O2 sensors
New NGK coils.
New plugs, double electrode platinum
Got her back together, it starts right up and sounds great. However, as soon as you give it any gas, it stalls for a second. Then will make almost a popping sound and then slowly struggle to build rpms. This is at full throttle.
1/4-3/4 throttle trying to flutter the throttle will make it run worse, and the rpms just stager around. Letting off the throttle it returns to idle and sounds fine.
There is no CEL turning on.
I dont have a scanner or a code reader but willing to get one. Especially if it can store codes with out turning the CEL on. A real time reader would be preffered.
Checked the ohms on the TPS. They fall with in range according to the SM. Albeit both values on the lowest side of the ranges.
Ohms look good on the MAF as well. Could not obtain much of a reading for the voltage test.
Wires to the drivers side bank are attached to the correct coil pack.
Cam installation went smooth accorded the SM using the 1 dot on one side, two dots on the other. Cam to crank timing appeared to be spot on, after checking a few revolutions by hand.
Seems as if its being starved for fuel
If anyone has ideas on where to start looking, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Did you ever figure this out?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
It's rather old but it sounds like he got the cams wrong. It should be one dot matched to one dot, then rotate 180 degrees to show two dots matched to two dots.
