Question about potential purchase of 2001 4runner

Anything before 96 is a 2nd gen 4runner. Which means it has the 3.0 engine which is known for head gasket issues.
 
brian2sun said:
Hold out for a 3rd gen. I've had both and there's no comparison IMO. Like kball said, those engines are known for HG issues (mine blew) and even if you get lucky and get a good running one, they have the power of a 4 banger with the fuel economy of a v8.
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I know, I just feel like I'm asking the impossible.

Less than 160k, in good shape, for less than $7,000...

=( I'm giving up hope.
 
I see them around, they come in waves it seems. You just have to look for a few months sometimes. I'll sell you mine for only $15K. :) Of course I'm joking.. $20K.
 
brian2sun said:
I see them around, they come in waves it seems. You just have to look for a few months sometimes. I'll sell you mine for only $15K. :) Of course I'm joking.. $20K.
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:lol: I missed the wave then, eh?

*sigh*
Where are you looking? Drive to North Carolina, I found 2 in 5 minutes that would fit that bill.
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I'm in Denver. NC's a bit far.
 
Also, why are salvage runners a bad idea?

Found this "i have for sale a 1999 toyota 4 runner limited with only 79k on it very cleanits a 3.4 v6 this truck has a salvage title asking 5,500 obo no rust almost brand new tires any questions let me know thanks 720-xxx-xxxx"
 
Salvage anything is usually a bad idea because the vehicle's value is much lower than a clean title. If you can get it for 1/2 the price of a clean title runner with the same mileage, then it may be a good thing if the truck runs good. But salvage titles are frowned upon which makes them hard to sell/resell.
 
rjaudi said:
I would say the price seems ok for what it needs. The most important question is are you mechanically inclined? Some of the issues I see wont be to bad to deal with as long as you can repair them yourself. The ac will need to be recharged with dye and then the can try to find the leak with the dye. Figure 400 for that if it is just a seal. The transmission doesnt bother me as long as the radiator was also replaced. My muffler was 600 for just the parts from the dealer. My dad owned it at the time and wanted OEM exhaust. That is for everything from the cat back. The actual muffler was 400 I believe. Yes, you could definitely get it cheaper at a local muffler shop.

Now, the problem isnt the muffler, but rather that will be the beginning. My tow hitch is in the landfill because it looked aweful. I needed new rear heater lines, muffler, rear bumper and my front bumper is starting to go. The rust will attack everything. So it is probably not isolated to just the muffler.

I would definitely be interested if I was you, but have the friend take some pictures of the chassis and have us evaluate. I have seen everything from surface rust to frames starting to rot.
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On my "new" 2001, the muffler is beginning to show some rust. The entire frame and undercarriage is completely rust free except the muffler. I inspected it with a fine tooth comb and the muffler is the only place with any rust. This truck has close to 200K on it but the maintenance records are very good. SO, the muffler could be the only component with rust on it.
 
jreask said:
On my "new" 2001, the muffler is beginning to show some rust. The entire frame and undercarriage is completely rust free except the muffler. I inspected it with a fine tooth comb and the muffler is the only place with any rust. This truck has close to 200K on it but the maintenance records are very good. SO, the muffler could be the only component with rust on it.
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Interesting! I will keep this in mind.

So, I put up a Wanted ad in Craigslist, and I got this within the first hour...

"
97 4-RUNNER LIMITED 3.4 V6, AUTOMATIC, 4 WHEEL DRIVE NEARLY PERFECT
CONDITION MINUS A COUPLE DINGS, BLACK WITH TAN LEATHER INTERIOR, ALARM
,AM/FM CD/CASSETTE, SUNROOF, TOW PACKAGE. 159K MILES.

WORK COMPLETED, SEVERAL $1000 INVESTED:

NEW TIRES, STARTER, BRAKES, (TIMING BELT, BEARING, WATER PUMP, FAN BELTS
AT 124K MILES) . TUNE UP INCLUDING PLATIUM PLUGS AND AIR FILTER, FUEL
FILTER, NEW TRANSMISSION FLUID. NEXT TIMING BELT WOULD BE AT 248K OR
EVERY 120K MILES"
 
atalarico said:
Interesting! I will keep this in mind.

So, I put up a Wanted ad in Craigslist, and I got this within the first hour...

"
97 4-RUNNER LIMITED 3.4 V6, AUTOMATIC, 4 WHEEL DRIVE NEARLY PERFECT
CONDITION MINUS A COUPLE DINGS, BLACK WITH TAN LEATHER INTERIOR, ALARM
,AM/FM CD/CASSETTE, SUNROOF, TOW PACKAGE. 159K MILES.

WORK COMPLETED, SEVERAL $1000 INVESTED:

NEW TIRES, STARTER, BRAKES, (TIMING BELT, BEARING, WATER PUMP, FAN BELTS
AT 124K MILES) . TUNE UP INCLUDING PLATIUM PLUGS AND AIR FILTER, FUEL
FILTER, NEW TRANSMISSION FLUID. NEXT TIMING BELT WOULD BE AT 248K OR
EVERY 120K MILES"
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Believe it or not, that is how I found the 4Runner that I just purchased last week. I put a wanted ad on Craigslist. Someone emailed me his mother in law's phone number. I called her and bought it two days later. Go figure. I looked high and low for an excellent condition Runner, not so much concerned about the mileage as long as the maintenance records could be provided. Of course, the eye appeal was important also. Good luck with your search. You WILL find what you are looking for. I accepted the higher mileage because of the condition and the price was only 5K.
 
jreask said:
Believe it or not, that is how I found the 4Runner that I just purchased last week. I put a wanted ad on Craigslist. Someone emailed me his mother in law's phone number. I called her and bought it two days later. Go figure. I looked high and low for an excellent condition Runner, not so much concerned about the mileage as long as the maintenance records could be provided. Of course, the eye appeal was important also. Good luck with your search. You WILL find what you are looking for. I accepted the higher mileage because of the condition and the price was only 5K.
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See, I never even thought of it because I figured no one ever replies to those because the best 4runners are to be sought out.

Who knows. There is hope yet!
 
Just be patient and you will find one.

Oh, and you always find exacty what you are looking for right after you have already bought one ;):
 
runrunner said:
Just be patient and you will find one.

Oh, and you always find exacty what you are looking for right after you have already bought one ;):
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*Sigh* but I'm an 'Merican dammit!!! I WANT MY BIG OL' CAR NOW!!! =p

I kid, I kid.

But seriously, Craigslist has turned up some leads that I'm going to follow up on tomorrow.
 
For those who were curious...
DSC04833.jpg


DSC04834.jpg


it turned out to be a rust-bucket for sure. I ended up getting a 97' limited, and I couldn't be happier!
 
lol! Hell no! This is what I passed on for my 97 limited! It was just further reassurance that I did the right thing. :biggrin2:
 
I would never buy a vehicle from Michigan or anywhere in the rust belt. It's named that for a reason. ;-)

That being said, do not kid yourself about Mag Chloride being less corrosive than salt. As far as I am concerned that crap ought to be banned.

The DOT and City governments love it because they can put it on before a snow/freeze and it keeps the roads wet and thawed but it is VERY corrosive and many ecologists believe more damaging to the environment than salt/gravel mix.

Personally I think if you can't drive in snow, you have no reason living here anyway but that's just my opinion.

So, take this from a native Coloradoan - IF you drive on Mag Chloride take your vehicle to the car wash the next day and thoroughly get the overspray off the top and bottom of your vehicle (if you care about it). Even if the car will get dirty the minute you drive away.

If you drive in Colorado, you should read this:

http://www.pcei.org/MagchlorideWhitePaper.pdf
 
Blitzkrieg said:
I would never buy a vehicle from Michigan or anywhere in the rust belt. It's named that for a reason. ;-)

That being said, do not kid yourself about Mag Chloride being less corrosive than salt. As far as I am concerned that crap ought to be banned.

The DOT and City governments love it because they can put it on before a snow/freeze and it keeps the roads wet and thawed but it is VERY corrosive and many ecologists believe more damaging to the environment than salt/gravel mix.

Personally I think if you can't drive in snow, you have no reason living here anyway but that's just my opinion.

So, take this from a native Coloradoan - IF you drive on Mag Chloride take your vehicle to the car wash the next day and thoroughly get the overspray off the top and bottom of your vehicle (if you care about it). Even if the car will get dirty the minute you drive away.

If you drive in Colorado, you should read this:

http://www.pcei.org/MagchlorideWhitePaper.pdf
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That's what the other people have been saying here too.

That's not to say my 97 is totally rust free, but it's a lot better than the Michigan cars I've owned.

I agree that de-icer is bad news all around, but we have to figure out something because people will drive in adverse winter conditions regardless, and 4wd on ice is still not going to save you.

I'll post pics of the new beast as soon as I can!
 
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