Question about replacing front struts

[4runn34]

I ordered the Bilstein 5100's for the front end on my 4WD, moog coil springs, and mevotech strut mounts. The Bilstein's didn't come with bushings or washers. Just the shock, dust cover and nut. The Movetech strut mounts look like they have a thick bushing built in. Do I need to order strut bushings for this?

Also the moog 81088 coils are very close together (9 total coils) and my macpherson spring compresser clamps barely fit through the gaps of the coils at the free length. I haven't tried to compress and mount yet but my thinking is once I compress and get the assembly installed then I won't be able to get my spring compresser out of the coil. Any insight would help.

 

[Skulking]

I ordered the Bilstein 5100's for the front end on my 4WD, moog coil springs, and mevotech strut mounts. The Bilstein's didn't come with bushings or washers. Just the shock, dust cover and nut. The Movetech strut mounts look like they have a thick bushing built in. Do I need to order strut bushings for this?

Also the moog 81088 coils are very close together (9 total coils) and my macpherson spring compresser clamps barely fit through the gaps of the coils at the free length. I haven't tried to compress and mount yet but my thinking is once I compress and get the assembly installed then I won't be able to get my spring compresser out of the coil. Any insight would help.

Looking at the Movetech strut mount, it looks like it is missing the upper bushing. I have attached the diagram showing what should be on the shock from the FSM. You can reuse the washers (Identified as retainers in the diagram), but you will want a new bushing (Identified as cushion in the diagram).

As far as the springs, the coils are very tight, but it is possible to get the compressors on and off even with the coils compressed. It may take a small amount of force to pop them on and off, but it's not bad. That said, lining up the shock mount at the correct angle so that when you mount it to the shock tower the bottom of the shock is at the correct orientation to mount to the LCA is a pain, there is a method for installing the shock disassembled and jacking up the LCA to compress the spring which is probably the simpler way to do things. You should be able to find a write up on that installation method around here somewhere.

 

[spartacus]

The top bushing above the strut mount is a little tough to start but it's needed.
I've never tried it but an alternate method discussed in the following thread.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/191088-front-strut-removal-during-lift-**method**.html

 

[phattyduck]

If you spin the strut compressor bolt fully out, you can often get more room to wiggle the clamp parts out between the coils.

Why are you replacing the springs? You are getting adjustable height shocks - so unless your old springs are heavily rusted, they should be fine to use even for a mild lift. It is really only the rears that sag.

-Charlie

 

[3bears]

after you get all the correct parts you could take it to a shop and havve them assemble the struts/springs. Yep it will cost money. Over my years I have assemebled tons on volvos, bmw's and others. But using the same tools that I had used on the others, on the Toyota ones and lift springs, well i was not comfrotable and wont do again. maybe im getting old. They are the threaded rod and hook style.
Ive seen or read where people use the lower cotrol arm system as a press, not using spring comresssors, there is even videos on youtube . I just dont know.
Ive got another 4runner lift ahead of me ( this spring) and I will most likely take the front strut parts to a shop.

 

[Malcolm99]

I had to grind the Macpherson coil compressor (the hook that holds the coil) to fit between coils so they could be removed after installing them on the shock, even then I had to remove the threaded rod from the coil compressor and find the largest opening in the 4R 99' coil to slip them out while prying the coil open a little after installation. I replaced the lower retainer and upper cushion with OEM since the KYB top plate came with a lower cushion and the upper retainer was still in good condition. I would suggest a 3rd compressor be used as the 2 threaded rods where under a lot of stress to do this job bending the threaded rods. The outter stud on the top plate is suppose to be 25* (see FSM for reference and note Left and right sides position) so everything lines up, and the bottom of the coil end faces outwards.

 

[3bears]

I had to grind the Macpherson coil compressor (the hook that holds the coil) to fit between coils so they could be removed after installing them on the shock, even then I had to remove the threaded rod from the coil compressor and find the largest opening in the 4R 99' coil to slip them out while prying the coil open a little after installation. I replaced the lower retainer and upper cushion with OEM since the KYB top plate came with a lower cushion and the upper retainer was still in good condition. I would suggest a 3rd compressor be used as the 2 threaded rods where under a lot of stress to do this job bending the threaded rods.

agree, if you can get 3 rods it would be safer, I own 4 and used 3 and it was still a lot of stress, and it was a pain to get the hooks out. Thanks for reminding me of that nightmare ( Tundra springs, billies on 2nd notch)

wonder if they make a nice safe tool for also using my harbor freight 20 ton press that i got for doing bearings and bushings.

 

[Skulking]

I had to grind the Macpherson coil compressor (the hook that holds the coil) to fit between coils so they could be removed after installing them on the shock, even then I had to remove the threaded rod from the coil compressor and find the largest opening in the 4R 99' coil to slip them out while prying the coil open a little after installation. I replaced the lower retainer and upper cushion with OEM since the KYB top plate came with a lower cushion and the upper retainer was still in good condition. I would suggest a 3rd compressor be used as the 2 threaded rods where under a lot of stress to do this job bending the threaded rods.

I only used two and didn't have any concerns about the compressors bending. I'd be a lot more sketched out about grinding down the lip on the compressor.

 

[Malcolm99]

You don't take much material off the Lip of the Square cast macpherson compressor, it doesn't compromise its ability to retain the coil, if you don't grind it you'll be taking paint off the coil upon removal and prying the coil apart to remove them again removing more paint. You wont like not being able to engage the safety pins either as the coil is to thick and again you would chip the paint off the coil. I guess after doing this 5 times on 15 year old compressors I'm losing my trust of the threaded rods and should just by a new set instead of using a third, maybe my old compressor is different, but mine sound like they had the same issue that the OP describes, if you don't take a few mm off you won't get the cast components out of the coil without a big fight. Maybe we are talking about different coil compressors?.