Questionable braking after Tundra Brake Upgrade

To me it sounds like a bad brake booster check valve. The same ish thing happened to me and it ended up being the check valve. It's a cheap part so you might as well eliminate it from the equation.

Also double check the hose going to the brake booster. If it's cracked or damaged, that can also cause the same symptoms.
 
To me it sounds like a bad brake booster check valve. The same ish thing happened to me and it ended up being the check valve. It's a cheap part so you might as well eliminate it from the equation.

The plot has thickened somewhat. I went to bed in the brakes and with panic stopping, as in when I SLAM the brakes the pedal is absolutely rock hard at the top. When the vehicle decelerates some I seem to gain more boost and there is assist. To me this seems like a boost/assist problem so I went ahead and bought a new check valve from Camelback Toyota (right down the street, thankfully) utilizing the part numbers previously linked in this thread. This seems to me to be consistent with poor braking at low speeds as gently pressing the brakes may not create enough vacuum to open that valve?

The booster is brand new and installed by my mechanic. The check valve also appears to be brand new. I took it off and blew into it seeing how much pressure it takes to open the valve. I was not impressed as it took some force to open the valve. The factory new Toyota valve was WAY smoother and opened much easier. I lubed the one on the booster and it made no difference.

The issue was that the factory check valve was a much different size from the one on the booster. The one that's on the booster is considerably smaller than the factory check valve and they were not interchangeable. Apparently the booster was not a factory reman. I talked with Advance Auto parts and they don't have just the check valve available, apparently they come pre installed on the replacement boosters.

My mechanic is out for New Years, so in the meantime I am considering buying a cheap plastic replacement universal check valve from OReilly to see if that helps. I talked to someone over there initially who said they don't have just the check valve, but a very quick search online of their inventory has shown that to be false, they have a wide selection of cheap looking plastic universal booster check valves.
 
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Did the 231 TBU about 2 years ago, great stopping power at higher speeds, not much improvement at slower UNLESS I push petal firm.
Agree with MC analysis.... if your board, upgrade MC from T100.... for me, I haven’t be that board yet

I am happy with my TBU with stock master cylinder, but the master cylinder is the only thing that is original in this 19 year old 4runner.
Does the T-100 master use the same booster ? Are the hard lines a direct fit,
is there a particular year ? Is there a write up on this ?
 
I’m happy with my TBU also. Powerstop calipers, oem pads/shims, brembo rotors. Stops great. Bled the brakes carefully and doubled checked for air bubbles.

At the same time I upgraded the rears with new OEM brake pistons, oem rear
Shoes with brembo drums.

Make sure your rear drums are adjusted properly. If it’s out of Adjustment it will stop like shit.
 
I am happy with my TBU with stock master cylinder, but the master cylinder is the only thing that is original in this 19 year old 4runner.
Does the T-100 master use the same booster ? Are the hard lines a direct fit,
is there a particular year ? Is there a write up on this ?

No. Sorta. Any T100 V6 4x4. Or 1 Ton. See my build thread.
 
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I looked at a few part lookups and apparently the ABS vs NON ABS masters and boosters are different.

He wasn't asking about boosters in his post. Just Master cylinders. You're not wrong. The internal bores the same, the difference is in Port locations. If you do upgrade pictures the four wheel drive ABS is the way to go. As far as I can tell the two wheel drive version is identical to what we already have in the truck. Well, minus the whole four bolt pattern instead of two.
 

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