Questions/advice restore

2

2000se

Member
Got a 2002 2x4 SR5. 333500 miles on the clock. Love the truck and it's pretty much my daily driver. I have no issues putting money back into as it does everything I want. To top it off, I've had it since new. I feel like it's getting a little tired in places and I want to really have it new again and keep driving it.

What would something like this cost for real? Pull body off, recoat frame, replace all bushings, motor freshen up, etc etc...like really make it new again. If we're close to $20k it doesn't make financial sense..Idk what to do. Could I do all this myself? Probably with the right garage and time, but I do not have that luxury. I do have another car to drive if I needed, but the garage part, tools, helpers, etc etc, make it difficult. So torn. Almost feel like driving it like it is till dies...But I would rather keep it going.

advice?
 
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At least your not in the rust belt. :-) I cant blame you for wanting to keep it going. They are decent rides that are very reliable. Hopefully, all the ball joints have been changed by now. Upper and lowers along with the normal maintenance in the timely manner.

The valves by 250+ to 300K will definitely need checked for valve clearances are gong to need adjusted. :-)

The radiator should been replaced at least one by now.

The trick to keeping them going is all about the maintenance and fixing things when they need addressed. Not just running them to they die. Fluids needs changed. Hoses, vacuum lines. Transmission filter and fluid along with the coolant and birttle hoses.

The reason why lots of folks goto poly bushings and body mounts is because of costs. The oem bushings and body mounts can get costly. The trade off is handling and ride feel. If your rig is stock and you love how it feels and handles you may want to use OEM parts. As it would feel like it was when it was new but you have some money in those parts. Pulling off the frame and cleaning the frame will have some costs to it. I don't think you would be at 20K.. However, you have some money involved. I am just guessing you have at least 10K or more in it because your not planning on doing the work yourself which i can get.
You almost need a restoring company to give you quotes on the costs and what you want to do.

I know if I was doing this. I would have the entire drive train seals replaced along with the engine seals to eliminate all leaks and prevent hose failures etc.

For example my 1997 limited (AKA Shitbox) was mud bugged before I got a hold of it. I had an engine transmission and transfer from a parts mobile. I pulled the engine and drive train and resealed the drive train internal seals and engine seals with new timing belt kit, spark plugs. coolant hoses, new radiator, new transmission lines etc. Engine had 163K on it so no need to adjust the vales yet.
Me, my brother and a friend did all the work. We also put a 2 inch suspension lift on it at the same time. We had 5K or so in this project and I had the parts to replace the engine, transmission, and transfer. Just to give you an idea. I didn't do the body work yet nor repaint it. Granted I am in the rust belt. So its just a hobby of mine to tinker with these rigs.

We didn't replace the body mounts nor separate the frame from the body. However, I will be doing a few of those projects down the road here as I have a frame to swap on one of them in a few years here. :-)
 
It really comes down to frame and body condition. All the mechanical side is pretty easy to figure out.

- All new bushings (body and suspension)
- New shocks
- New steering components (rack, tie rods)
- New engine bay rubber parts (hoses, etc.)
- etc.

So, what condition is the frame and body in?

-Charlie
 
I had my frame welded at a shop local to me. The place runs like clockwork with people shipping their Toyota's from all over the US and Canada to him so he can restore the underside of their trucks. I don't think he would have an issue refurbishing yours since there is likely no welding required. Maybe find a shop more local to you that does this first. Otherwise you can contact him. Garden State Undercoating.
 
Awesome. Thank you. Will reach out to them.
I was able to get some underbody pics yesterday and now have to get them uploaded here.
 
2000se said:
Awesome. Thank you. Will reach out to them.
I was able to get some underbody pics yesterday and now have to get them uploaded here.
Click to expand...
Its kinda rough loading photos into the forum as they have to be a certain size. When the forum lost compatibility tapatalk as it would resize and upload everything automatically for you.

I am really surprized you wouldn't have any restore shops in your area. As that's basically want you want done is to refresh of the bushings and suspension along with new body mounts. :-)

I wish I could give you pricing but I do everything myself so I am not sure what that would cost to do as labor charges are just my time. :-(
 
brillo_76 said:
Its kinda rough loading photos into the forum as they have to be a certain size. When the forum lost compatibility tapatalk as it would resize and upload everything automatically for you.

I am really surprized you wouldn't have any restore shops in your area. As that's basically want you want done is to refresh of the bushings and suspension along with new body mounts. :-)

I wish I could give you pricing but I do everything myself so I am not sure what that would cost to do as labor charges are just my time. :-(
Click to expand...

Shucks! If you weren't 8 hrs away!
 
2000se said:
Shucks! If you weren't 8 hrs away!
Click to expand...

I suspect I am more then 8 hours away. as I am a good 4 to 5 hours from Washington DC However, maybe not. :-) I wouldn't know what to do working on a non rusty rigs. I mostly , weld the frames back together and replace the steel from rot issues..:-)
 
phattyduck said:
That looks like a southern California truck under there. No worries about rust...

-Charlie
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words Charlie!
For some OCD reason I'd still love to have the body lifted off and have the frame sealed. :shrug:

In addition, while the body's off have it re-sprayed. We just don't have companies on the east coast that seem to do that stuff. At least none that I can find.
 
2000se said:
Thanks for the kind words Charlie!
For some OCD reason I'd still love to have the body lifted off and have the frame sealed. :shrug:

In addition, while the body's off have it re-sprayed. We just don't have companies on the east coast that seem to do that stuff. At least none that I can find.
Click to expand...
Are you planning on a concourse level restoration? If not, leave the frame alone (unless you moving to an area with salt). It made it this far with 0 issues, why change?

If you want it to feel brand new, fix the parts that matter - the things you touch, the things you see and the things that move. Oh, and any paint job worth doing will be EXPENSIVE... and won't make the truck drive any better.

So, start with the mechanicals - suspension, steering, maintenance, etc. Then move on to the vanity stuff (interior, body, etc.)

-Charlie
 
Resealing that frame is overkill. Better off getting dry ice blasting. Then have a shop Fluid Film it. This will preserve is for a longggg time in your climate. I would just have a shop install some OEM body mounts.
 
Do the suspension first - I used all OEM and yes it is pricey - I didn't even want to add it up but guess it was $3K with some labor. It rides superb and we know how long OEM lasts - this will be the last time. Luck and enjoy the Runner.
 
Texmax said:
Your attachment to the truck is understandable, if it was me, I'd sell it and find a 4WD limited to take its place. Sell it while it's running and find a good 98-99 with the rear locker. If you're serious put $20k into a 4wd, not a 2wd.
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Interesting take....hmmm. You got me thinking now...
 
phattyduck said:
Are you planning on a concourse level restoration? If not, leave the frame alone (unless you moving to an area with salt). It made it this far with 0 issues, why change?

If you want it to feel brand new, fix the parts that matter - the things you touch, the things you see and the things that move. Oh, and any paint job worth doing will be EXPENSIVE... and won't make the truck drive any better.

So, start with the mechanicals - suspension, steering, maintenance, etc. Then move on to the vanity stuff (interior, body, etc.)

-Charlie
Click to expand...

Great advice. Not concourse level for sure....
 
T4R2014 said:
Resealing that frame is overkill. Better off getting dry ice blasting. Then have a shop Fluid Film it. This will preserve is for a longggg time in your climate. I would just have a shop install some OEM body mounts.
Click to expand...

I do have a friend that owns a CO2 business. They make recoup CO2 gas from manufacturing plants turning it into liquid, then making dry ice with it. They also own a dry ice blasting business. I could talk with him. See what he says..
 
jgue467 said:
Do the suspension first - I used all OEM and yes it is pricey - I didn't even want to add it up but guess it was $3K with some labor. It rides superb and we know how long OEM lasts - this will be the last time. Luck and enjoy the Runner.
Click to expand...

$3k to get back that factory drive feel would be very acceptable damage to me.
 
2000se said:
I do have a friend that owns a CO2 business. They make recoup CO2 gas from manufacturing plants turning it into liquid, then making dry ice with it. They also own a dry ice blasting business. I could talk with him. See what he says..
Click to expand...

Good start. That being said the inner cavities of the frame and body will still need to be cleaned out using pressurized water. It will look pretty new after this though. The OEM coating holds up very well when maintained, I wouldn't sandblast it off. Just preserve it, better outcome and money will be saved.
 
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