Questions for manual owners

[nathanroyse]

Check your clutch pedal spring. When I bought mine, the original was so worn out that it didn't return. Felt like the clutch was going out because it would whine and grab suddenly. Once I replaced the spring the first time it felt great (I did the linear spring mod later)

Which gears are grinding? If it's just 1st or 2nd gear then I'd suspect worn synchro, if it's all of them then it seems unlikely that all of them would be worn. If it goes away with double clutching then that could be an indicator.

Manual 4runners had a foam matting under the shifter boot to insulate the transmission tunnel. I was once adding noise insulation in that area after I had driven, and it was uncomfortable hot to touch. It's normal for heat to come from there, especially if you don't have insulation.


The manual 4runners drive quite well, I came from a manual Jeep which has double the pedal travel (or not far off) so it felt like a downright sports car. I never had problems stalling it or grinding gears when learning, but it took a week for me to get the same level of confidence as I had on the Jeep. I test drove many manual Toyota pickups and 4runners by the time I bought mine though.

I took the original spring off because it was really worn and replaced it with a spare brake petal return spring I had laying around. It feels a little better but I will order a new spring a bushings this week. The grinding is in all gears


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[nathanroyse]

This is typical for a worn input shaft bearing in the trans. My worn input shaft bearings---once on a Land cruiser, once recently on my present 4Runner--- have produced what I would describe as a whirring sound.

BTW, Toyota says either GL4 gear oil (like Redline MT90) OR GL-5 gear oil is OK in the R150/R151 series transmissions; I've mostly used MT90, but it came with Mobil 1 75W-90, and the service place recently put BG 75W-90 in it, and I have perceived no difference in shifting or synchro behavior. Maybe this trans is less sensitive to trans oil type than the transmissions of yesteryear?

Yep. That’s what I’ve been fearing. Did you replace yours when that happened? I’m really disappointed that something like that is happing so early on. The transmission has only 140,xxx miles.


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[revans611]

I can't comment on your particular issues, but I think I can give you some good advice. I learned the hard way to purchase OEM parts for your transmission when it needs repairs.

 

[Bad Luck]

The trans was a little difficult to get lined up with engine but I made sure to loctite and torque all clutch/flywheel bolts. Is it easy to misalign something when putting the transmission back on? The whining is all the time except when the clutch petal is pressed in


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Did you use a clutch alignment tool when you were installing the pressure plate/clutch? If not that may be some of your issue.

If the noise happens all the time except when the clutch is disengaged (clutch pedal pressed down) then your input shaft bearings are the culprit.

 

[Bad Luck]

Idle while the vehicle is moving will be high - it is part of the ECU programming (even my '89 Camry would do it - and with the '95 GT4 engine and ECU still does it). It is to make shifting back into gear easier/safer for the trans. You generally shouldn't be coasting in neutral anyway... (technically against the law in many places, even) Easiest on the trans is to just keep it in whatever gear (foot off clutch) while braking until it you are going fairly slow (1000-1500 rpm), then go to neutral or maybe 2nd gear for a bit before stopping.

-Charlie

I would like to believe that, but the high idle while coasting happens roughly half the time in my 2000 and didn't happen at all in a 98 that I test drove. If it were an ECM programming feature then it would be more consistent. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason for it happening that I can determine. It can happen at any speed at any time. Sometimes tapping the gas will cause it to settle, sometimes tapping the brake pedal will cause it to settle, sometimes the rpm's will fluctuate, sometimes the rpm's will drop while coasting and then kick back up in lower speeds, etc. I've just accepted it as a fact of life that isn't causing any damage or wear.

 

[brillo_76]

I am wondering if your throttle body is slightly worn. Thus needing the washer mod to keep from sticking. As I saw a member had this happening with an auto on both his stand the used throttle body he got a hold of. As this would explain the randomness and how tapping the gas sometimes clears it.

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[nathanroyse]

I would like to believe that, but the high idle while coasting happens roughly half the time in my 2000 and didn't happen at all in a 98 that I test drove. If it were an ECM programming feature then it would be more consistent. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason for it happening that I can determine. It can happen at any speed at any time. Sometimes tapping the gas will cause it to settle, sometimes tapping the brake pedal will cause it to settle, sometimes the rpm's will fluctuate, sometimes the rpm's will drop while coasting and then kick back up in lower speeds, etc. I've just accepted it as a fact of life that isn't causing any damage or wear.

Yes! Mine does the exact same thing. At first I thought it was my AIC valve but I had just cleaned that so it doesn’t make any sense


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[nathanroyse]

Did you use a clutch alignment tool when you were installing the pressure plate/clutch? If not that may be some of your issue.

If the noise happens all the time except when the clutch is disengaged (clutch pedal pressed down) then your input shaft bearings are the culprit.

Yeah I bought the kit off of yotashop. Definitely input shaft bearing then.


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[nathanroyse]

UPDATE:
So I just finished replacing all of the bearings in the transmission and unfortunately it still has the same whining noise as before… what could this possibly be? I don’t know where to go from here. Here is the kit I bought: R151 Standard Transmission Bearing and Seal Kit | Toyota Pickup, Tacoma, 4runner, T100, Tundra - Cobra Transmission


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[TheDurk]

I don't have an answer on the idle issue, but I will point out that the throttle body on manuals have a vacuum operated idle control thingy that is not found on slushbox engines. I know because I failed to reconnect that thing once, and I had a permanent high idle of around 1200 rpm. It took a while to find it, because the hose was just sitting on the nipple, instead of being pushed all the way in ("That's what she said").