Questions for those who have replaced their LBJ's

[Outrider]

With 195k on my vehicle, I have become really paranoid about one of my LBJ's breaking, so I have ordered both of them, plus the 8 replacement bolts, from Camelbak, and they will be here Friday. All of that was $230, shipped, while my local dealership wanted $350, and they would have had to order the parts.

I have read lots of threads here on the subject, and gather that I many need one or two loaner tools from an auto parts store. Of course, I might not need them, but I don't want to discover that I do, when I am in the middle of the job, and have no way to go get them.

It seems to me that I might need a Tie Rod End Puller and a Pitman Puller. I also read here to not use a Pickle Fork, at the risk of damaging a part. Could someone who has done this job confirm the two tools I might need? Or recommend something else?

 

[Mark_BC]

I use the two OTC tools [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] uses in his video. They work well and were worth purchasing but I have 3 runners and my friend has 1, so lots of use... I can do an lbj in an hour now plus the extra time spent on rust treatment etc whil I'm in there.

 

[SaulG]

I also read here to not use a Pickle Fork, at the risk of damaging a part. Could someone who has done this job confirm the two tools I might need? Or recommend something else?[/QUOTE ]


Won't use fork for install..who cares if you tear a boot on removal.??

 

[gamefreakgc]

Won't use fork for install..who cares if you tear a boot on removal.??

The risk is damaging the boot on the outer tie rod an then having to replace that as well.

I would see what your local auto parts store has for rentals and start there. Just rent all that would be relevant unless it's close enough to walk to (like mine) so you don't find yourself spending more time driving to and from the parts store than actually working on the repair. I found that in my case from O'Reilly's, the tie rod end puller was quite useless but the pitman puller was perfect. I ended up buying one ($15) since it's also perfect for pulling other parts and pulleys off the engine.

The key is to just take your time, don't rush things and have the right tools for the job at hand. You'll do great.

 

[thegipper]

Pickle fork may work and since you only need it for removal, it won't matter if it damages the old LBJ's. The reason why I say it "may" work is because it didn't work for me. In fact, I had to hit the pickle fork so hard on one of my tie rod ends, it broke one of the forks off and still didn't separate. I had to go to work and use the torch and beat the hell out of it with a hammer until it finally dropped.

I bought one of these for the next time I need to work on LBJ's, OTRE's. They are suppose to work well.

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3...l+joint+tool&qid=1557343311&s=gateway&sr=8-13

Another trick is use a jack to put pressure on the stud (with the nut on covering the ends of the threads). Jack it up until there is significant pressure and hit the side of the lower control arm with a hammer and it should pop loose. I believe that is how I did it when I replaced my LBJ's and didn't have any tools other than the pickle fork.

 

[Kyngfish]

This may seem self explanatory but I wouldn't want to do the job again without three things :

• Eff a breaker bar - get an impact wrench
• My 3/8" torque wrench got to the proper spec, but didn't really have a long enough handle to do it comfortably, get the 1/2" if you can swing it
• deadblow hammer

 

[Jidaran]

I got the OTC set Tim recommended in his video, worked great.

I would definitely suggest renting or buying before you start working though - I've pulled (more accurately, knocked) LBJs off other vehicles without the proper tools and it's a PITA.

Don't forget to get new cotter pins for the outer tie rods.

 

[animator]

I used both the tie rod end puller and the pitman arm puller when I changed mine. It was a lot easier than trying to deal with other methods of separating those parts.


If you use the SST designed for the lower ball joint, it'll fit right up. But if you use a pitman arm puller, you'll likely have to remove the brake dust shield too. I remove the bolts or nuts, whichever it was, and let the dust shield hang down a bit so that I can get the pitman arm up over the lower ball joint stud.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I used both the tie rod end puller and the pitman arm puller when I changed mine. It was a lot easier than trying to deal with other methods of separating those parts.


If you use the SST designed for the lower ball joint, it'll fit right up. But if you use a pitman arm puller, you'll likely have to remove the brake dust shield too. I remove the bolts or nuts, whichever it was, and let the dust shield hang down a bit so that I can get the pitman arm up over the lower ball joint stud.

Go get a loaner kit.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-kit-3-front-end-service-kit-648626/9150006-P


The larger Pittman arm puller works perfectly for the LBJ. I didn't have to remove anything.

 

[Wedgy]

Always defer to Timmy The Tool Man !!
He even shows you the mistakes when they make them.
YouTube

 

[heat]

I had to use a press to break the ball joint free. That's what I had on hand
at the time.

 

[Outrider]

Go get a loaner kit.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance


The larger Pittman arm puller works perfectly for the LBJ. I didn't have to remove anything.

Precisely what I was looking for - a specific tool recommendation from someone who has used it. That way I don't have to get a half dozen individual loaner tools and hope that 1 or 2 might actually fit.

Thanks. Especially for the link, which has a part number.

 

[kilowhisky]

Precisely what I was looking for - a specific tool recommendation from someone who has used it. That way I don't have to get a half dozen individual loaner tools and hope that 1 or 2 might actually fit.

Thanks. Especially for the link, which has a part number.

Yep. All you need the the large one in the center. Just get the castle nut off and then fenegle that thing around it with the bolt square on the top of the (ball bolt (?) and tighten.. Works like a charm.

Here is what i used when changing mine a week ago.

1) That puller
2) Pack of different size cotter pins
3) Socket set
4) Torque wrench
5) Service manual (to get torque wrench specs)

The operations is pretty simple. Once you have all the tools ready it can take only 20 minutes or so to do the job.

Here's what i did.

1) raise car and remove wheel
2) undo castle nut for steering tie rod
3) use puller to break tie rod loose.
4) undo the castle nut for LBJ.
4) undo the 4 bolts holding the LBJ to the axle hub
5) swing the axle aside
6) use the puller to break loose the LBJ.
7) Remove LBJ assembly.

To put it back in its more or less the same thing in reverse but you should seat the LBJ into the hub and attach the bolts FIRST. Once you have it seated you can swing the axle with a pry bar back into place so that the LBJ ball joint slides into the lower control arm. From there its just tighten and cotter pin.

Without that damn puller though its neigh impossible to get done in any reasonable amount of time.


By the way you can rent that puller for free from pretty much every single auto parts store. If you want to buy you can get it for 20-30$

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Precisely what I was looking for - a specific tool recommendation from someone who has used it. That way I don't have to get a half dozen individual loaner tools and hope that 1 or 2 might actually fit.

Thanks. Especially for the link, which has a part number.

That kit also has a smaller Pittman arm puller which works with the tie rod end. I think the other longer vertical one may work but I ended up using the Pittman arm puller. Just be careful you don't damage the tie rod end boots. I put a small hole in one of mine when I pinched it with one of the claw ends. It also takes a little finagling (might have to remove the press screw, put the claw part in place then screw the screw back in) to make it fit. Also might have to jack the LCA to the correct angle too. Which means you'll need to support the frame with jackstands (which you should do anyway.

 

[gamefreakgc]

That set looks exactly like the one I used. I bought the smallest pittman puller since it was so handy and had rented it 3 times by that point.

I found removing the outer tie rod end trickier than the LBJ itself, since I was trying not to damage the OTRE and re-use it.

 

[weekendclimber]

Not sure what your rust situation is to, but might want to start hitting those bolts with some PB Blaster or similar penetrant oil now. If your cotter pins are rusted, just snip them as close as you can to the castle nut and then just hit them with an impact wrench, or breaker bar. The castle nut will just spin past that little bit left over.

Happy wrenching!

 

[Outrider]

Not sure what your rust situation is to, but might want to start hitting those bolts with some PB Blaster or similar penetrant oil now. If your cotter pins are rusted, just snip them as close as you can to the castle nut and then just hit them with an impact wrench, or breaker bar. The castle nut will just spin past that little bit left over.

Happy wrenching!

I have Kroil and PB Blaster, so I will soak everything in advance. And I'm in Georgia, so it sees very little salt on the roads. I don't expect to have much problem with rust.

 

[Ghostrider]

The risk is damaging the boot on the outer tie rod an then having to replace that as well.

I would see what your local auto parts store has for rentals and start there. Just rent all that would be relevant unless it's close enough to walk to (like mine) so you don't find yourself spending more time driving to and from the parts store than actually working on the repair. I found that in my case from O'Reilly's, the tie rod end puller was quite useless but the pitman puller was perfect. I ended up buying one ($15) since it's also perfect for pulling other parts and pulleys off the engine.

The key is to just take your time, don't rush things and have the right tools for the job at hand. You'll do great.

Kinda curious if anyone doing this for the first time still has boots. When I did mine (actually I bought all the OEM stuff and had the tires off when I realized I was totally out time and needed it done before a trip so I paid the dealer) after 15 years the boots were so bad I did LBJ and tie rod ends to put on new boots. And I lived in Texas for those 15 years so no salt or anything or the boots. In any case I would do the boots if they are factory. After 20 years they probably are not going to last longer than the new LBJs

 

[MaineRunna]

Jack it up and let the suspension hang. Take off the wheel, remove the castle nuts and break the 4 LBJ mounting bolts free. Pound on the heavy cast parts of the LBJ & LCA perpendicular to the tie rod & ball joint studs (as shown). This will break the tapered fit and they should separate pretty quickly. If it's a stubborn one you may need to use a pickle fork too. Once the tie rod and LBJ are separated lift the spindle until the ball joint stud clears, then remove the mounting bolts and then the LBJ.
This can be done with impact tools in less than half an hour. Hand tools might take around an hour per side. don't use a pickle fork on the tie rod ends unless you are replacing them also.

 

[nobb]

Those pickle forks are the worst, don't bother with them. Get a heavy duty 2 jaw adjustable puller and that should be good for the LBJs and tie rods. Also works really good for many other uses too.