Questions for those who have replaced their LBJ's

[Mighty Buffalo]

Depending on rust, consider OTRE. Mine were so rusted, that when I used the puller, it crushed the cotter pin hole and destroyed the threads. I had to order replacements and was down for a couple days. Luckily I had a second car to use.

 

[AntleredRuin]

There's plenty of replies here, all of which seem valid, but I have actual tool part numbers for you, with torque specs, socket sizes, etc

Another Lower Ball joint thread

I deferred mostly to Tim's video for the how-to, but compiled the list myself from a few different threads.

 

[Outrider]

There's plenty of replies here, all of which seem valid, but I have actual tool part numbers for you, with torque specs, socket sizes, etc

Another Lower Ball joint thread

I deferred mostly to Tim's video for the how-to, but compiled the list myself from a few different threads.

Thank you. The torque specs are especially helpful. It's difficult digging through tons of threads and videos to get just the few pieces of information I need. I think I will have everything I need, once the parts arrive tomorrow and I pick up the loaner pullers from Advance Auto, previously mentioned.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Thank you. The torque specs are especially helpful. It's difficult digging through tons of threads and videos to get just the few pieces of information I need. I think I will have everything I need, once the parts arrive tomorrow and I pick up the loaner pullers from Advance Auto, previously mentioned.

No problem! That's exactly why I made that thread. The info is all available, but I could never find it all compiled neatly. It's been about 2.5 years since though, so maybe things have changed.

 

[tcbaklash]

I've done the 4Runner LBJs with a tie rod puller and I've also done them with brute force using a pry bar and a hammer. I do not recommend the latter because you will spend more effort doing that than renting the right tool from an auto parts store. My local auto parts store had 2 sizes of tie rod pullers for rent. Take measurements and make sure you get the right one.

As for the cotter pins, trim the open end with some diagonal cutters and drive them through the stud with a punch. Pull them out the rest of the way with pliers.

 

[4x4grover]

I used Timmy's video, invaluable info, torque spec etc. proper tools make this job an easy DIY.

THANKS TIMMY

 

[3bears]

Go get a loaner kit.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-kit-3-front-end-service-kit-648626/9150006-P


The larger Pittman arm puller works perfectly for the LBJ. I didn't have to remove anything.

mever used advance auto parts, do you have to guy anything to rent tools....like buy a car part ?

 

[weekendclimber]

mever used advance auto parts, do you have to guy anything to rent tools....like buy a car part ?

I've used O'Reilly's before to rent tools. My experience is that you basically have to give them a CC to hold the full cost of the tool until you return it.

 

[Outrider]

mever used advance auto parts, do you have to guy anything to rent tools....like buy a car part ?

Nope. You essentially buy it, then when you return it, you get a full refund. It is a free rental, as long as you don't abuse it and break it, lose it, or forget to take it back. You don't have to buy anything else, to get the loaner for free.

I just brought that kit home. The deposit cost me $127.XX.

I just jacked it up, removed one of my wheels, soaked the involved bolts some more with Kroil and PB Blaster, and tapped the metal around them. Supposedly, the vibration from tapping it helps the penetrant wick into the joint better.

Now I am just waiting for FedEx to put the new parts on my front porch.

 

[4runnerfiend]

I use Oreilly's. These tools linked below are on their loner tool program.

for the Tie rod. this one below. I first tried the smaller Pitman arm but it doesn't fit. this one works great.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...mover/67008/4700234/1999/toyota/4runner?pos=6

For the ball joint used this one below. Be careful not to strip the "bolt" on this one. Crappy part I fount is you have to use an open end on this. there is kind of a ball on the end so a socket will not fit.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...uller/67025/4700243/1999/toyota/4runner?pos=8


Hope it helps.

 

[Outrider]

Update:

I just finished the first one (driver side). It took me about 1.5 hours. I normally work kinda slow, and I had a couple of stumbling blocks. All of the bolts and nuts broke loose easily, thanks to them not being too rusted, and the fact that I thoroughly soaked them with penetrant over the last day.

I most certainly needed the loaner puller kit I got today. I didn't want to take any chance of buggering up the rubber boot with a puller, so I first tried knock the OTRE out with a block of wood on top of it, and a hammer. No dice - it was in there very tight. When that didn't work, I used a puller, and was concerned with how much force I was wrenching that puller. I thought the puller might crack, then the OTRE finally popped loose. Same thing with the ball joint bolt.

It was a greasy, sometimes heavy job, but really not very difficult. I have dealt with far worse. At 10:00, it's too late to start the passenger side tonight, so it will wait until tomorrow. And it will go much more quickly, since I am now familiar with exactly what to do.

Upon looking at the first original LBJ, it appeared to be perfectly fine. But with 195k on my T4R, this is big peace of mind, as I have been really paranoid about going for a roll in this thing.

Thanks for the help and advice on this.

 

[animator]

If you whack the ball joint right where the tie rod attaches, often it'll just drop out. I've also used the puller to put pressure on the tie rod, then whack the side of the ball joint to get it to drop out. Last time I did it, I just used the puller and zipped it off with an impact. No damage to anything in either case.


Same with getting the ball joint stud out. I've seen people use a jack to raise it up and push it out, but the puller with an impact gun pops it right out. At least for those of us who don't have to deal with road salt rust anway...

 

[Mtn. Runner]

Anyone ran into alignment issues after replacing LBJs? I replaced both sides at the same time and hindsight I probably shouldn't have done that. Any ideas on how to manually straighten the wheel back out or things I may have done wrong? Thanks in advance

 

[carp73]

I have one of these I use for everything. Love it

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...VG7nACh1J9g5AEAQYASABEgKrZ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Outrider]

Anyone ran into alignment issues after replacing LBJs? I replaced both sides at the same time and hindsight I probably shouldn't have done that. Any ideas on how to manually straighten the wheel back out or things I may have done wrong? Thanks in advance

I sure hope not, and it is my understanding that they don't affect the alignment. As long as they were the same size as the original ones, along with the fact that no adjustments were made during the replacement, I don't see how the alignment could have been changed.

Tie rod ends are another matter, though, since they have a threaded adjustment.

 

[animator]

Anyone ran into alignment issues after replacing LBJs? I replaced both sides at the same time and hindsight I probably shouldn't have done that. Any ideas on how to manually straighten the wheel back out or things I may have done wrong? Thanks in advance

As long as you leave the tie rod ends alone, you shouldn't need an alignment. Although it is recommended to have an alignment immediately after replacing the lower ball joints, I waited for a while before having it aligned, and had no problems.