Questions regarding water pump/timing belt!

A

Amirocassar

New member
Hey guys just changed my timing belt and water pump on my 2002 4runner. I did my best to scrape off all the old gasket. Someone used some aftermarket crap and not the proper gasket FIPG or whatever it's called(I'm tired). It was almost like a foam, much like the foam-adhesive underneath the cars "wood" interior. First start with all the new stuff scared me, I had high and rough idle but I'm assuming that's because the system was dry. Everything's running a lot more quieter now too!! So as for my questions, how long does it take for CE to pop up if TDC was off? I drove for like 15 minutes and no problems or CE. I'm just a very paranoid person with terrible luck. I setup TDC correctly but I was just wondering if anybody's gotten a CE from it. No coolant leaks so far. I'll wait to see over the week, it's my only means or transportation so that's why I ask.

Coolant at normal temp(half way). (I need to fix my android tablet in order to get exact temps). The person before also put the jiggle valve at 6 o'clock instead of 12... So their job wasn't the greatest.

Thanks for any input!
 
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When i have had the timing off after doing toyota timing belts the light normally comes on pretty fast. I have had them set cam crank corrolation codes and po300 code which is random multi misfire. The 3.4l is a pretty eay timing belt to do since its a rwd layout and everything is easy to see. Unlike the mini vans like the sienna where the cams in the rear is hard to see and likes to move on you when removing/installing the timing belt. As long as your marks all lined up, you rotated the motor over by hand twice after installing and rechecked the marks and checked the tention on the belt you should be good.
 
Sounds as if you did a great job and learned a lot. However, the jiggle valve is supposed to be at 6'oclock.

If there is no CEL, just drive and enjoy.
 
LittleCaesar said:
Sounds as if you did a great job and learned a lot. However, the jiggle valve is supposed to be at 6'oclock.

If there is no CEL, just drive and enjoy.
Click to expand...

Haynes manual states that it's suppose to be within 15 degrees of the 12 o'clock position. This should be common knowledge since air rises to the top, not the bottom. If it's at 6 then it's done wrong.
 
Amirocassar said:
Haynes manual states that it's suppose to be within 15 degrees of the 12 o'clock position. This should be common knowledge since air rises to the top, not the bottom. If it's at 6 then it's done wrong.
Click to expand...

The below is from the TOYOTA FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. Haynes is only good for underwear. On here, experience has shown it works better ON THIS ENGINE.
 

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TheDurk said:
The below is from the TOYOTA FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. Haynes is only good for underwear. On here, experience has shown it works better ON THIS ENGINE.
Click to expand...

Well that's extremely weird... It really doesn't make sense too when you think of physics and how air rises. I wonder why they have it as such.
 
It is one of those things where my limited knowledge of automotive physics doesn't allow me to explain why; I am just glad Durk chimed in with his PDF of the FSM showing that I wasn't crazy. Fellow members in the past show up to a 15 degree rise in coolant temps with the jiggle valve in the 12 oclock position.
 
AZ4Running said:
When i have had the timing off after doing toyota timing belts the light normally comes on pretty fast. I have had them set cam crank corrolation codes and po300 code which is random multi misfire. The 3.4l is a pretty eay timing belt to do since its a rwd layout and everything is easy to see. Unlike the mini vans like the sienna where the cams in the rear is hard to see and likes to move on you when removing/installing the timing belt. As long as your marks all lined up, you rotated the motor over by hand twice after installing and rechecked the marks and checked the tention on the belt you should be good.
Click to expand...

I got a slight ticking noise at about every second. Not sure if I'm just noticing it now since I've been so paranoid about this while project and I'm hearing every different part of the engine like a dog or this is somewhat normal. Some people say a ticking is normal with these v6 engines since their loud. I'm thinking my belt tension could be too tight. I'm gonna do the ruler check since I don't have a belt gauge. Any suggestions? Think it could be the same? Thanks! And yeah I drove for about 25minutes and no CE so I'm assuming my timings good right? I work nights and go back to work tonight so I won't have time to fix anything that's why I'm paranoid. Thanks bro!
 
Amirocassar said:
I got a slight ticking noise at about every second. Not sure if I'm just noticing it now since I've been so paranoid about this while project and I'm hearing every different part of the engine like a dog or this is somewhat normal. Some people say a ticking is normal with these v6 engines since their loud. I'm thinking my belt tension could be too tight. I'm gonna do the ruler check since I don't have a belt gauge. Any suggestions? Think it could be the same? Thanks! And yeah I drove for about 25minutes and no CE so I'm assuming my timings good right? I work nights and go back to work tonight so I won't have time to fix anything that's why I'm paranoid. Thanks bro!
Click to expand...

Yes, if it's running smoothly, driving fine, and no check engine light, then you got your belt on correctly. You'd see problems immediately after starting it up otherwise. So congrats on that. As for the rest of it, Just go back through in your mind along with someone's write up somewhere and make sure you reinstalled everything and tightened all bolts. Keep checking your coolant reservoir from time to time to make sure you replace any coolant that burps back in from missed air pockets. It sounds to me like you're good to go and have nothing to worry about.
 
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