Quick body lift question

[MENTION=131275]swiftneed[/MENTION] My stock V8 rear end has held up fine, towed my stuff from California to Oregon with no issues on my new 35's. :)
 
Hey, I'm about to do a 1" BL also in prep to run 35's can you post up pics of the amount of cutting that you had to do to make them fit? Thanks

I'll see about getting some more later this week
 

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[MENTION=131275]swiftneed[/MENTION] My stock V8 rear end has held up fine, towed my stuff from California to Oregon with no issues on my new 35's. :)

I am curious how many guys on here run the 35s without changing the rear diff< I definitley not wishing to lose my diff offroading. have you done any off road again they are new what about you NYC Runner
 
I am curious how many guys on here run the 35s without changing the rear diff< I definitley not wishing to lose my diff offroading. have you done any off road again they are new what about you NYC Runner
Blew mine because the crush sleeve they use that's stock crushed more and threw the teeth out of alignment.
Bought a replacement from EGGS and all is good. I was trying to pull a truck out of a pond though. So I was being rough on it.
 
I am curious how many guys on here run the 35s without changing the rear diff< I definitley not wishing to lose my diff offroading. have you done any off road again they are new what about you NYC Runner

I'm definitely gonna do solid spacers when I get my 4.56s this summer. I'm terrified the crush sleeve will fail or shift and give me bad day
 
I made sure when that when i had ECGS re gear and re build the 3rd member and clamshell that they used solid pinion spacers! I'm not sure your exact question [MENTION=131275]swiftneed[/MENTION]? I'm not running 35's so i can't comment on it yet. I think the 35's will definitely make it more susceptible to happening under certain situations for sure. You can still grenade your rear diff without runnings 35's , my buddy grenaded his rear end on a difficult hill limb last year
 
Taking you guys off track of where this was going but I just thought of another couple body lift questions. I'm going a 1" , what about:

1. MojaveMadMan light bar mounts that mount to the bumper studs, the bumper stretches up at the top only and it should remain a non-issue?

2. Spare tire crank guide will not be aligned with the rear bumper hole?

3. Exhaust tail pipe will stay where it is creating a gap?

4. Trailer hitch, not much we can do about that is there. Oh well.
 
Taking you guys off track of where this was going but I just thought of another couple body lift questions. I'm going a 1" , what about:

1. MojaveMadMan light bar mounts that mount to the bumper studs, the bumper stretches up at the top only and it should remain a non-issue?

2. Spare tire crank guide will not be aligned with the rear bumper hole?

3. Exhaust tail pipe will stay where it is creating a gap?

4. Trailer hitch, not much we can do about that is there. Oh well.

You pretty much got it.
1) I would say you can get it to work. Not a huge difference.
2)spare tire crank can be tweaked slightly to still line up.
3) yes exhaust will stay creating more gap.
4) yup, trailer hitch too. Mine doesn't look so great with my 2.5" body lift. I'm going to move mine from the bottom of the frame to the top. Will require a little fab work but will create a ton of space and drastically improve my departure angle! I drag it quite often right now.
 
You pretty much got it.
1) I would say you can get it to work. Not a huge difference.
2)spare tire crank can be tweaked slightly to still line up.
3) yes exhaust will stay creating more gap.
4) yup, trailer hitch too. Mine doesn't look so great with my 2.5" body lift. I'm going to move mine from the bottom of the frame to the top. Will require a little fab work but will create a ton of space and drastically improve my departure angle! I drag it quite often right now.

Thanks for the quick response. My side exit exhaust is welded on kind of tight to the body and small tip already so I think I can make it work. Yeah 2.5" of hitch hanging down would be a bit more of an eyesore than 1". Moving the brackets up on the frame might not be too bad but would require some work to make it same strength.

My 33's that I expected to get delivered in 2 weeks showed up randomly today so it's time for me to get to work on the body lift and trimming!
 
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Thanks for the quit response. My side exit exhaust is welded on kind of tight to the body and small tip already so I think I can make it work. Yeah 2.5" of hitch hanging down would be a bit more of an eyesore than 1". Moving the brackets up on the frame might not be too bad but would require some work to make it same strength.

My 33's that I expected to get delivered in 2 weeks showed up randomly today so it's time for me to get to work on the body lift and trimming!
For my hitch I plan on notching the crossmember that connects the frame rails, filling in the hole with 1/4" plate steel, moving the hitch to the top of the frame, then getting a piece of 2x4 1/4" wall steel tubing and laying it across the top of the crossmember. Weld it all in and viola! Hitch will be 6" higher, everything will be as strong or much stronger, greater departure angle, much better look!
 
Do you not have to weld a flat piece in place of the curved piece you cut off? All the pics I've seen the guys weld it back together. I noticed you just cut and painted the edges. Thanks
Nah. You aren't cutting into the actual structural part. Some worry and weld something on. I've had mine cut for well over a year without a single issue.
 
Do you not have to weld a flat piece in place of the curved piece you cut off? All the pics I've seen the guys weld it back together. I noticed you just cut and painted the edges. Thanks

short answer no.

the reason the body mount was designed the way it is is for another factor of safety for the passenger compartment. if you look at the rest of your mounts or any other mounts on a vehicle they'll most likely be similar to an L bracket with either a small gusset or a rolled edge. the reason some people weld it back over in some shape or form is either A) they think they need to since they believe it compromises the structure (which it doesn't). and B) so that in case the tire ever rubs it again it wont be cut up, but i just ground the edges that could be rubbed to a round smooth surface to get the same effect.
 
short answer no.

the reason the body mount was designed the way it is is for another factor of safety for the passenger compartment. if you look at the rest of your mounts or any other mounts on a vehicle they'll most likely be similar to an L bracket with either a small gusset or a rolled edge. the reason some people weld it back over in some shape or form is either A) they think they need to since they believe it compromises the structure (which it doesn't). and B) so that in case the tire ever rubs it again it wont be cut up, but i just ground the edges that could be rubbed to a round smooth surface to get the same effect.

Perfect, thanks to both of you guys
 

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