Rad overflowed and Pink milkshake take a look please!?

[StreetCreeper]

Still confused here if the transmission is now separated from the rad then how could this happen again. I have the tranny cooler with lines here at my place just never got around to putting it on. This way from my understanding if the rad is compromised it shouldn't matter. if I attach the inlet and outlet lines together with a hose, where the tranny lines used to be. the rad will run itself the transmission will have its I own cooler with its own fluid. Is there something im missing here.

Both tranny and read will be flushed as well.

1) Yes you can run your tranny cooler that you already bought and bypass the old half broken radiator that now has ATF residue in it. You will then have a shitty/dirty/broken radiator to keep your engine cool while you potentially overheat your transmission depending on how you use your truck after you install the stand-alone tranny cooler as well as potentially run it with perpetual cold fluid during the winter depending on where you live and how you drive. But hey, you won't have to worry about the pink milkshake — again.

2) You can also buy a new radiator and use your stand-alone tranny cooler that you already bought, and bypass the new radiator's built in tranny cooler. Your engine will thank you but your tranny may not for the same reasons in #1) above.

3) You could buy a new radiator and use the internal tranny cooler as designed without much worry of a pink milkshake any time in the next 100,000 miles. Your engine will thank you and your transmission will have a fighting chance of surviving the first pink milkshake.

4) And finally, you can buy a new radiator and use the stand alone tranny cooler you already bought, in conjunction (read in-series) with your new radiator's internal tranny cooler. You will remove nearly all the possibility of a pink milkshake (but not all), while helping your engine stay cool. You will also be helping your transmission stay cooler than if you had just run the stand-alone cooler by itself, in addition — you help the tranny fluid warm up to operating temp quicker when it's cold out. So now your engine will thank you and your transmission will too.

Like the others, I would recommend #4.

 

[beliboy32]

Thank you to everyone who made suggestions i really appreciate it.

 

[beliboy32]

Update on tranny flush

So below left is clean straight from bottle second is last one I just did the most right is the time before. I flushed it 5 times by filling the tranny and removing the hose , into a bucket, from the tranny into the rad. I ran the engine for a few seconds till it bubbled then shut it off. Next I drained the pan. Did that procedure 5 times.

I started with the second pictures fluid.

Any recommendations?

 

[alumarine]

Are the transmission lines still connected to the bad radiator?
If so, you'll keep contaminating the transmission fluid..
There's articles here on how to flush the transmission.

 

[beliboy32]

Are the transmission lines still connected to the bad radiator?
If so, you'll keep contaminating the transmission fluid..
There's articles here on how to flush the transmission.

No both lines where out only new fluid in and out.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

I would keep flushing it just to make sure. 5 times drain and fill is 20 quarts. ATF is way cheaper than a new transmission.

 

[kball]

After you get the trans flushed to your liking I would run it up a mountain. Good and hard, get it well over 200 to boil out what's left of the water. The trans is not under pressure so once it's over the boiling point it will steam it out.

 

[frodiesel]

After you get the trans flushed to your liking I would run it up a mountain. Good and hard, get it well over 200 to boil out what's left of the water. The trans is not under pressure so once it's over the boiling point it will steam it out.

How does this work? Interested to know more about your theory. Especially if trans fluid is somehow heavier than water at a certain elevation.

Not sure any measurable amount would ever steam out. Least here at sea level with all the flat-landerz n their 4x4s.

Keep flushing by un hooking the trans lines from the radiator and flushing it with the tq pump.

 

[kball]

How does this work? Interested to know more about your theory. Especially if trans fluid is somehow heavier than water at a certain elevation.

Not sure any measurable amount would ever steam out. Least here at sea level with all the flat-landerz n their 4x4s.

Keep flushing by un hooking the trans lines from the radiator and flushing it with the tq pump.

That's just it. It's just my theory. Oil and water will mix against common thought but it takes a while. Before they mix I figure if you get the trans hot enough (over boiling point, 212) the water will have to turn to steam and as heat rises in the trans, make it's way out of the vents. Maybe.. I mean, isn't this what people always say to do with engines if you drive a lot of short trips? Condensation builds up so you need to take it for a longer drive to get temps up and keep them up long enough to "drive out" the condensation? Same concept I guess. Does it work? I have no clue. I'm not a Dr. of engineering.

 

[beliboy32]

So my new rad came in I installed it flushed out the engine portion, flushed transmission as you saw. I'm going to run it hit all the gears flush it then do a week and flush it again.

Fingers crossed this works otherwise ill bring it in to properly flush it. anything i should no in advance if it get to this stage.

thank you again

 

[shahsmerdis]

So my new rad came in I installed it flushed out the engine portion, flushed transmission as you saw. I'm going to run it hit all the gears flush it then do a week and flush it again.

Fingers crossed this works otherwise ill bring it in to properly flush it. anything i should no in advance if it get to this stage.

thank you again

if you bought aftermarket, tighten the tranmission lines until they are snug. sometimes fittings that connect to the transmission cooler are loose. Mine could move at least 15-20 degrees. Some other guy posted that they were leaking from there.

Keep on flushing man.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Why replace the rad? I'm adding the tranny cooler isolating them from each other.

Sorry may seem obvious but I'm still learning.

I agree with what others have said. I dunno if you're in Ottawa Canada (I'm in Orleans), but I did the Trans Cooler bypass only because my rad is still in good shape. If your rad is already toast now, ditch the bypassed trans cooler idea and put that money toward just replacing the rad all together. It will provide you with sufficient trans cooling (I mean, it has up to this point right?) and you honestly won't have to worry about a pink milkshake for another 10 years.. which by then... your 4runner will probably rust and have fallen apart anyway.

 

[beliboy32]

I agree with what others have said. I dunno if you're in Ottawa Canada (I'm in Orleans), but I did the Trans Cooler bypass only because my rad is still in good shape. If your rad is already toast now, ditch the bypassed trans cooler idea and put that money toward just replacing the rad all together. It will provide you with sufficient trans cooling (I mean, it has up to this point right?) and you honestly won't have to worry about a pink milkshake for another 10 years.. which by then... your 4runner will probably rust and have fallen apart anyway.

I'm in farhaven lol but yes i did buy a new rad but i had previously bought the trans cooler so im not sure what exactly to do. Should i hook up both or just one?

 

[SpidermanGeek]

I'm in farhaven lol but yes i did buy a new rad but i had previously bought the trans cooler so im not sure what exactly to do. Should i hook up both or just one?

If you already have the part now, you might as well install it, but don't bypass it. Run it in series with the built-in rad trans cooler.

Which model did you get? Does it have a low-temp bypass built into it?