Radar Detector Hardwire

josh220

Banned
On all of the searches I did, the write-ups were very old so the pictures have since been deleted from their source. Does anyone have a good write up on how I can hardwire my Escort? Like where to ground it, and where I can hook it up to a 12v outlet that goes on with the ignition? Thanks.
 
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I decided that for now, I will still use the 12v lighter outlet in the front for my detector, and ran the cord up the side of the windshield, under the "oh sh*t" handle.

This is what it looks like after you unscrew the 2 screws on the handle, and pop off the plastic piece.
001-4.jpg~original


This is before I cut the ends of the zip ties, so you can see where they are fastened. The cord is just fastened to the bundle of wires that re already there.
002-5.jpg
~original[/IMG]

And after I put the piece back on, and put the "oh sh*t" handles back on.
003-5.jpg
~original[/IMG]


The cord then is tucked under the rubber border that runs along side the door/dashboard, and run under the steering column. Then it's run along side the floor and up to the outlet from under the seat, so there aren't ugly cords all over my truck, but I still have easy access to the "mute" button on the charger.
 
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get a standard telephone chord and use it instead of that twisted one you have now. Cut the end off one side and connect the inside 2 wires to power and ground. From the chords I've used, green is generally power and red is ground. No worries if you have them backwards... it won't fry your unit. You'll know if you have them backwards if it doesn't cut on. If thats the case then just reverse them.
 
Where can I connect it to power and ground? That was the issue I had with it in the first place, I have no idea what people mean by "power" and "ground."

Also, if I bought this Direct Wire Smartcord , does it connect in the same way? I wouldn't mind getting this cord eventually, and putting the "power indicator/mute button" part into one of those dead plugs next to the diff lock button. That way I can mute it without reaching up.
 
So for the "ground" part it just needs to be fastened somewhere that doesn't give any type of charge? And it won't mess up the fuses to link it to one of those?
 
don't run it directly to the battery... waste of time. Not to mention you would have to manually turn your radar on and off.

you can catch power and ground at a power outlet. You can tap into the wires running to the outlet that way you don't have to plug it in. There are several threads on here telling you how to get the dash apart and which wires are + and - ... + being power, - being ground...
 
Yeah but I couldn't find any except one, but the link was dead because it was an old thread. Everything I read just assumed that the person reading it already knew what power and ground was.
 
In-line fuse connector from autozone for the hot (positive) replacing the fuse for the cig/acc fuse in the fuse box. This will give you switched power when the vehicle is on just like the outlets do now and you won't be splicing just tapping the same power and both are fused (acc outlet and your radar) and protected. Then just run your ground to the bolt that holds the lower kick panel (by your knees), it's lower left bolt just underneath and to the left of the fuse cover. I don't have pictures but there are two bolts that hold the panel on and its the left one by the drivers door not the inside one below the ignition switch. It will give you a good ground as the bolt is unpainted and ultimately meets the chasis metal when snugged up. I used this method to power my dimming mirror and it's clean and safe. Plus reversing the install means yanking the in-line fuse out and replacing it back with the stock one. No wires to tape up and no ones the wiser.

If you want picture I can post some tomorrow.

I see you're from Socal too, where abouts?
 
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Okay, yeah some pictures would be great. Also, if I understood correctly, you said to use the fuse that gives power to the cig lighter, so If I do that, will I still be able to use it for power, or will it blow the fuse having 2 things running off of it?
 
josh220 said:
Okay, yeah some pictures would be great. Also, if I understood correctly, you said to use the fuse that gives power to the cig lighter, so If I do that, will I still be able to use it for power, or will it blow the fuse having 2 things running off of it?

The fuse tap looks like this

http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=489006&eventPage=1

and uses one fuse for the cig adapter but also allows you to select another independent fuse for the radar detector so either one could blow but will not effect the other. However it is always best to keep the item you are attaching to the fuse tap at the same amp draw as your cig/acc allows. Since your radar detector is supposed to use the cig adapter you will be fine. The fuse in there is like 2.5 or maybe 5 amps (don't quote me) but I used the exact same amp fuse the cig/acc port had so as to not over draw the circuit. Since my auto dimming mirror draws such small current it will not be a problem. You're more likely to blow it from plugging something else in that draws way more current from the circuit then your radar unit. Plus since both circuits are protected you will be more then fine.

I wouldn't go jacking in too many things in the same circuit, for example amps or tvs. Those should have dedicated lines run (fused of course) to the battery or distribution block. Adding say a GPS or Sat radio along with what you have should be fine also. In other words if it was meant to use a cig lighter adapter you will be fine. You're just "tapping" in to the same power wire before the actual cig lighter socket and it's all from the same power source which is why it's switched.

I'll get a picture of the ground bolt I used tomorrow. I hope it's not to confusing. I used to install car stereos and car alarms for a hobby so it's easier to do then describe.
 
josh220 said:
Alright thanks. Will the fuse that leads to the cig lighter be labeled?

If you zoom in on the picture the two bottom holes are for the stock fuse for the cig light and the top holes are for the fuse going to your added device. I used the same amp fuse in both sockets that way it trips just the same as stock without being able to overload anything.
 
Alright thanks, I'm going to order their direct wire cord in a few days so when it gets here i'll go to autozone and grab a fuse tap. Hopefully I can get it to work.
 

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