Radiator Replacement Advice

[01thunder]

regarding aftermarket trash, personally, i won't put it on my truck. i bought a cheapo rad and in 6 months the top tank was leaking. cost me $100 and change. you get what you pay for. cheap shit is exactly that, cheap shit. mass produced garbage in china by slave labor.
anyway, i paid more and bought one from my local dealer who had one in stock. i get shop discounts on parts so no biggie for me.

 

[Luciendar21]

I will definitely buy a Toyota radiator if I have to replace this one for any reason, but it seems the leak was my own fault for not having checked (or properly understood) the fittings around the transmission ports.

The bleed issue was also my own fault, I really should have known to run the heater. I ran the heater and finished bleeding the system with absolutely no issues.

At some point I'll probably try to cut in the rear heater lines and re-bleed the system, but it isn't a pressing issue. Now on to my next adventure, which is installing Daystar lift pucks and then taking it to get new tires and an alignment.

Thank you all for the help!

 

[Luciendar21]

Just do document some of the lessons I learned in case someone ends up reading this while doing their own radiator replacement:

- Double check that the fittings for the transmission lines at the bottom of the radiator are tight.
- The top coolant hose has a 90deg bend where it connects to the engine and two 45 deg bends where it connects to the radiator. The two 45deg bends help it pass the fan and fan shroud.
- Be sure to run the heater when you bleed the coolant system.
- Shell Rotella ELC 50/50 red coolant is thicker than most 50/50 blends, thick enough to be mistaken for transmission fluid.
- An air or electric ratchet is pretty much essential to get to the lower radiator bolts and lower passenger fan shroud bolt.
- Socket extensions are also essential, you'll need a stubby one and a long one.
- Have a wire brush on hand to clean up any fittings that need it. I used a wire wheel on a drill to clean corrosion off the lower hose engine side fitting.
- There is conflicting information about where the jiggle valve should be on the thermostat. Most people say 12 o'clock, some documents say 6 o'clock. Lots of people installed it at 12 o'clock and had no issues, so that's what I did.

 

[Tomffmedic]

Just found a leak in the top of my radiator. Since I have to drain it I am replacing the water pump and thermostat. Guess I will replace all the belts as well since I have to take them off while in the process. Crap! Glad I work part-time at O'Reilly's or this would be expensive. Anything else I am missing that should be replaced while in this process? I will of course replace the top and bottom radiator hoses. Appreciate any input.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Just found a leak in the top of my radiator. Since I have to drain it I am replacing the water pump and thermostat. Guess I will replace all the belts as well since I have to take them off while in the process. Crap! Glad I work part-time at O'Reilly's or this would be expensive. Anything else I am missing that should be replaced while in this process? I will of course replace the top and bottom radiator hoses. Appreciate any input.

Any particular reason why you are doing the water pump but not the timing belt? Water pumps will last roughly 100K+ miles so if it doesn't need it, don't mess with it. Same goes with the thermostat.

If you do replace the water pump only, get this tool: https://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH97300-Toyota-Tensioner-Compressor/dp/B009RXWMNE. I used it once for a rig leaking from a bad water pump (didn't want to do the whole deal) and it saves a ton of time and all the headache of lining up timing marks.

Personally, I'd just replace the radiator and leave the rest alone until your next timing belt change.

 

[Tomffmedic]

Any particular reason why you are doing the water pump but not the timing belt? Water pumps will last roughly 100K+ miles so if it doesn't need it, don't mess with it. Same goes with the thermostat.

If you do replace the water pump only, get this tool: https://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH97300-Toyota-Tensioner-Compressor/dp/B009RXWMNE. I used it once for a rig leaking from a bad water pump (didn't want to do the whole deal) and it saves a ton of time and all the headache of lining up timing marks.

Personally, I'd just replace the radiator and leave the rest alone until your next timing belt change.

I probably need to go ahead and do the timing belt as well. I bought the truck 50K miles ago and do not know when they had it done. They gave me immaculate records but I lost them in a move. How often does one change the timing belt? I have seen 50K-100K.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I probably need to go ahead and do the timing belt as well. I bought the truck 50K miles ago and do not know when they had it done. They gave me immaculate records but I lost them in a move. How often does one change the timing belt? I have seen 50K-100K.

For these engines, 100k is the rule of thumb. But there's been documented cases of belts lasting 200k+ miles on these forums so they can last a long time. If you've put 50k on it, you might be getting close. There should be a sticker on the upper timing belt cover with a mileage reading when it was last done, it's usually just to the left of the upper water outlet in the front of the engine.