Radiator Replacement. Help a brother out!

Collkid

New member
Im about to replace the trans on our 2001 SR5.

It doesn't 'need' it but it is the original and the truck is coming up on 180k. I figure it will save me from getting the pink milkshake of death.


Few questions.

1. I remember replacing the radiator on my old Jeep Cherokee and trying to take off the trans lines was the hardest part. Does anyone have some insight to this? I had to buy some kind of special tool back in the day. Is that still true?

2. Do you trust a NAPA radiator?

3. Any other tips/tricks?
 
Register to hide this ad
Im about to replace the trans on our 2001 SR5.

It doesn't 'need' it but it is the original and the truck is coming up on 180k. I figure it will save me from getting the pink milkshake of death.


Few questions.

1. I remember replacing the radiator on my old Jeep Cherokee and trying to take off the trans lines was the hardest part. Does anyone have some insight to this? I had to buy some kind of special tool back in the day. Is that still true?

2. Do you trust a NAPA radiator?

3. Any other tips/tricks?

1.Not hard at all, pretty straight forward use a pick tool if needed to help loosen the transmission lines from the radiator.
2.Buy Denso... I used amazon 100 bucks delivered to my door not bad.I used to work at a parts store and I can honestly say that the "warranty" on a radiator is pretty hard to claim.
3.If it's your first time changing it out i would use Timmy the Toolman's video(youtube) to help guide you.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nVbwe2t2T8
 
Last edited:
There will just be some constant velocity clamps for the transmission lines. Use a angled pick to loosen up the hose from the fitting (twisting) and they should pull right off.

There are only 4 bolts that hold the radiator in place. Then it simply lifts and pulls out (there are little hooks on either side that support the radiator, you'll see them).

There is a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Loosen it up until coolant starts to come out but do not remove it unless you like making a massive mess. Removing the radiator cap will help speed things up.

Get yourself some Toyota red coolant or at least the Zerex asian formula (the pink one). I would also put in a new thermostat, upper/lower radiator hose and radiator cap while your in there. I also agree to get a Denso radiator from Amazon.

If the coolant that is coming out is super dirty/gunky, I would flush the system first. Tim/Sean have some excellent videos on youtube (Timmy the toolman) that should help you out.
 
...
3. Any other tips/tricks?


Smart move, old radiators develop hairline cracks not to mention the milkshake issue.


You'll need a couple really long extensions to avoid having to remove the grill. Removing the grill is always a risk with the plastic parts.

Of course new toyota Red coolant and a new toyota radiator cap and thermostat (install with burp valve pointed towards 6oclock).

New hoses maybe - why not?

Clean out the a/c condensor from the back while you're there, use an a/c condensor cleaning foam from home depot/lowes.

check out the operation of your fan clutch. A few sprays of lube oil in the front where the circular coil is helps to keep rust away there and operating smoothly.

Luck and enjoy the runner. :cowboy:
 
does Toyota Red mix with other things?

I think there is currently green in there. I imagine I wont be getting every last drop out.
 
Unless you're going to do a full coolant flush, then just go with the current green you have.
As a Toyota tech though, I do recommend a good radiator/engine block flush and going with Toyota coolant, but that's just my 2cents.

When the top tank on the radiator starts to turn a brown/poopy color, then that is a good time to change it because the plastic has deteriorated and could crack anytime.
 
Plenty of guys here run green, it's up to you.

If you are switching from green to red (or vice versa) plan on flushing the cooling system with distilled water till the water comes out clear.

Drain all coolant and overflow canister
Fill rad with distilled water
Fill overflow to hot mark
Run vehicle with heater switch on/fan off till vehicle reaches operating temp
Dump water (caution it's hot) and repeat

I've seen guys go through 10-12 gallons of distilled water in some cases
After water comes out clear, or you are sick of flushing it and burning yourself, swap in the new radiator and refill. Don't forget to empty the overflow and fill with coolant to the about an inch above the cold mark

If you buy Toyota red, buy enough distilled water to mix it 50/50. If you buy premixed pink, don't dilute.

I recommend you get your radiator from Camelback Toyota, $120 for an OEM radiator, supposedly the Japanese Denso vs. the Taiwanese Denso Amazon sells. I got an Amazon Denso and got lucky, it did not break in shipping due to bad packaging.

Oh, why are you switching your transmission proactively? If you are afraid of a pink milkshake just do the cooling system swap, that's where neglect will get ya. If your transmission is good, leave it alone. 180K is nothing.
Treat your transmission to regular fluid refreshes with the Drain and Fill method, conservative, vs a complete fluid replacement, unless warranted.

My $0.06 cents (adjusted for inflation)
 
Last edited:
Plenty of guys here run green, it's up to you.

If you are switching from green to red (or vice versa) plan on flushing the cooling system with distilled water till the water comes out clear.

Drain all coolant and overflow canister
Fill rad with distilled water
Fill overflow to hot mark
Run vehicle with heater switch on/fan off till vehicle reaches operating temp
Dump water (caution it's hot) and repeat

I've seen guys go through 10-12 gallons of distilled water in some cases
After water comes out clear, or you are sick of flushing it and burning yourself, swap in the new radiator and refill. Don't forget to empty the overflow and fill with coolant to the about an inch above the cold mark

If you buy Toyota red, buy enough distilled water to mix it 50/50. If you buy premixed pink, don't dilute.

I recommend you get your radiator from Camelback Toyota, $120 for an OEM radiator, supposedly the Japanese Denso vs. the Taiwanese Denso Amazon sells. I got an Amazon Denso and got lucky, it did not break in shipping due to bad packaging.

Oh, why are you switching your transmission proactively? If you are afraid of a pink milkshake just do the cooling system swap, that's where neglect will get ya. If your transmission is good, leave it alone. 180K is nothing.
Treat your transmission to regular fluid refreshes with the Drain and Fill method, conservative, vs a complete fluid replacement, unless warranted.

My $0.06 cents (adjusted for inflation)

I think the OP just had a typo and meant to say "radiator" not transmission.
 
The studs on the water intake housing tend to come out if the nuts are on tight and a little corroded. I would spray the 3 nuts for a couple of days before removing them. Use a 6 point socket on them.

Put the tstat jiggle valve in the 6:00 position (toward the ground.

If you have small pits on the mating surface of the water intake, replace it before you put everything back together and it starts to leak. Evenly tighten the nuts and use a torque wrench.

You may want to have new replacement studs and nuts before you begin.

I highly recommend using a Lisle funnel to prevent air pockets. Burping the system by using the funnel is the way to go and no mess.
 
Buy a radiator for manual transmission and get the external B&M trans cooler. My $.02


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Buy a radiator for manual transmission and get the external B&M trans cooler. My $.02


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No, don't.

Cool your transmission fluid in the radiator cooler first, then route to an AUX cooler. Heat transfer is way more efficient via fluid than it is in air, don't deprive your transmission of primary cooling power to prevent a pink milkshake, you'll just create other problems. If air cooling the transmission fluid was more efficient, then every major manufacturer would be doing this including Toyota

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
Im going to be swapping my radiator soon as I have 230k miles on it. I'm also going to be swapping out the coolant with a flush. So what I'm reading is that I should flush with distilled water until nice and clear with the old radiator, then swap for new radiator then fill with fresh coolant? I think I have that right I think? Thanks.
 
You'll need a couple really long extensions to avoid having to remove the grill. Removing the grill is always a risk with the plastic parts.

:cowboy:

I got away with a 3 and a 6 inch extension. Two of them I had to come in at a weird angle, but all went well. Good luck..pretty simple job. BTW, I got an OEM Denso from the dealer for cheaper than amazon
 
No, don't.

Cool your transmission fluid in the radiator cooler first, then route to an AUX cooler. Heat transfer is way more efficient via fluid than it is in air, don't deprive your transmission of primary cooling power to prevent a pink milkshake, you'll just create other problems. If air cooling the transmission fluid was more efficient, then every major manufacturer would be doing this including Toyota

Even though I did this as well, I was reluctant as to add the "problem" of the strawberry shake back into my new radiator. I too am using both, I have a faint fear in the back of my mind that doing so will create issues later on.
 
Buy a radiator for manual transmission and get the external B&M trans cooler. My $.02


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where can you find one of those? Toyota hasn't sold them for years. They just give you an auto rad. The p/n is officially replaced by the same one for autos. I've never seen an after-market one for sale either.
 
Last edited:
yes I did mean I am going to replace my radiator.


It honestly looks fine, but i know this is a weak point on these 4runners.


Think I'll be taking it on tomorrow! Thanks guys!
 
I ordered mine this past Dec from CamelBack Toyota. New radiator, hoses, thermostat and gasket was around $180 and free shipping.
 
I second [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] on this as well. If you're putting in a new radiator, then don't bypass the tranny cooler. If you want / need extra cooling, then add a B&M. You won't be needing to worry about a pink milkshake for another 150K miles.

Or:

I just replaced mine with an Aluminium Champion radiator. I still used the lower transmission cooler portion for the first cooler, and then went to my B&M cooler. It will be many, many years before I should ever be concerned.
 
I second [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] on this as well. If you're putting in a new radiator, then don't bypass the tranny cooler. If you want / need extra cooling, then add a B&M. You won't be needing to worry about a pink milkshake for another 150K miles.

Or:

I just replaced mine with an Aluminium Champion radiator. I still used the lower transmission cooler portion for the first cooler, and then went to my B&M cooler. It will be many, many years before I should ever be concerned.

I read that the radiator is also good for warming up the tranny fluid on startup. You don't get that with the external cooler.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,085
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top